DYEING OF POLYESTER

AND COTTON BLEND

SUBMITTED TO:

SUBMITTED BY:
ss

DR. M.L.GULRAJANI

ASHISH DUA
(2012TTF2406)
IIT DELHI
ashisdua@gmail.com
1

Classification of the methods for

dyeing of P/C blend
Exhaust dyeing method or batch dyeing

methodThis is again classified in the following three groupsa. Two bath dyeing
b. One bath one step dyeing
C. One bath two step dyeing method
Thermosol Dyeing method It is again classified in to two groupsa. Continuous dyeingb. Pad batch process (semi-continuous)
Note-In continuous dyeing process may be single
bath or double bath.
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EXHAUST DYEINGTwo bath dyeing

This is the process in which we have to dyed first

polyester part in the HTHP beam dyeing machine or

HTHP jet dyeing machine and the cotton part is dyed in
the jigger machine.
Batch process
Machine used for dyeing of polyester part i) HTHP Beam dyeing machine( First commercialized
HTHP machine)
ii) HTHP jet dyeing machine
Machine used for dyeing of cotton partJigger dyeing machine
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PROCESS ROUTE P/C BLEND

DYEING-

MACHINE FOR POLYESTER DYEINGHTHP beam dyeing machineNo need to explain the whole process of dyeing in beam dyeing

machine. Only some important points we will discuss about itAdvantages & features:
Loading and unloading of the fabric is easy and time of dyeing
is short.
Dyeing in open width form.
Most suitable for those fabrics that might crease, extend or
abrade when dyed in machines where the fabric is in motion.
Not appropriate for compact fabrics
De-aeration is essential to avoid paler dyed spots.
A wetting agent helps to eliminate air bubbles within the fabric
roll.
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Recipe used HTHP dyeing

Disperse dye- X%(depends upon the shade)
Dispersing agent-1g/l
Sequestering agent-1-2g/l(If required)
Defoamers -.5 to 1g/l
Levelling agent-.5 to 1 g/l
Wetting agent- .5g/l
Acetic acid-enough to get ph=5-6

Flow of the liquor usually in the in-to-out direction,

but it can be reversed. Out-to-in flow can compress
the material causing flattening and glazing,
particularly on the inner layers.
Material stationary and liquor is moving.
Batching is very important, during batching tension
should be uniform and optimum.
M:Lratio is 1:10
Both cloth and yarn can be dyed on this machine

HTHP BEAM DYEING

MACHINE-

Disadvantages of beam dyeing

machineFabric of different width can not be dyed

together on a single beam.

The dyed fabric may be display moir effect if
it is tightly due to shrinkage.
Uneven dyeing may occur if the beam is fully
loaded ,as the dye liquor has penetrate
several layers of fabric.

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JET DYEING MACHINE-

11

JET DYEING MACHINES-

12

HTHP jet dyeing machine

The jet dyeing machine is an extension of the HPHT

winch dyeing machine. Jet dyeing machine developed

by BURLINGTON Industries and first machine
developed in 1963 by Gaston country Machine co. of
U.S.A
Features:
Both material and liquor is moving.
Dyeing in rope form.
Fabric speed usually 200-250mt/min
The jet dyeing can usually operated up to 140 0c under
high pressure and having capacity capable of dyeing
100 to 150 kg of fabric at a time
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Chemicals added
Acids
Buffers
Sequestering agent
Anticrease agent
Defoamers
Levelling agent

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DEVELOPMENT IN JET DYEING

MACHINESoft flow jet- slow motion of fabric. Suitable for knitted

fabric
Super jet dyeing machine- M:L is 1:1

Aerodynamic jet dyeing machine

Jet created by mixture of air + water

M:L is 1:1 , drain out at a 130c

Multi-nozzle sot flow jet dyeing machine

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Advantages of jet dyeing machine:

Fabric of two different width can be dyed at a

time so that two lots can be combined

together for dyeing.
No special batching device is required for
winding the fabric as in beam dyeing.
There is no flattening effect or uneven dyeing
on the fabric as in beam dyeing

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Disadvantages:
There is possibility of entanglement of light-weight

fabric during dyeing.

Loose fibres removed from the fabric may get
redeposited on the fabric surface as well as on the
interior of the jet dyeing vessel, this problem does
not arise in beam dyeing.
Yarn can not be dyed in a jet dyeing machine
whereas it can be dyed in a beam dyeing machine.
PROBLEMS-1.Foaming problem
2.Oligomers problem
3.Rope marks
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Machine used for cotton dyeingJigger dyeing machine

Open jigger or closed jigger dyeing

machineClosed jigger specially for vat dyeing.

Liquor is stationary and fabric is
moving.
500 t0 1000 meter of fabric is
processed in one time.
M:L ratio in jigger dyeing machine is
about 1:5.
Usually take 10 min. for each passage
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One bath two step

dyeingOne-bath dyeing processes ,using both the

dyes such as following in the same dye bath.

1. Disperse and vat dyes.
2. Disperse and reactive dyes.
3. Disperse and direct dyes.

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DISPERSE/REACTIVE DYEING
SYSTEM-

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Disperse/vat dyeing systemTypical dyeing recipe

Disperse dye-X%
Vat dye-Y%
Dispersing agent-.5-1%
wetting agent-.5-1%
pH 4-5 with acetic acid (30%)
Procedure-Prepare the bath with dispersing agent,

wetting agent and acetic acid + treatment for 1015min at 50-60c then + disperse and vat + dye
for 10-15min + raise temp up to 130c in 60-90
min.
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Procedure continuedAfter PET part dyeing cool to 80c for proper

levelling then add NaOH & Na2S2O 4 + dyeing

15min + cooling to 60c + dyeing for 30 min.
for better exhaustion Rinse with cold water +
oxidation with H2O2 for 15min at 50c +
Rinsing with cold water + Soap at 95 C for 25
min using 2 g/l Lissapol D + Hot and cold rinse
and then final wash off.
Only vat dyes which are stable up to 130c
can be used for this process.
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One bath two step dyeing methodAll vat dyes may be used for the one bath high

temperature process provided that the dyes are finely

divided enough. The IK vat dyes are not preferred
because the dye liquor requires to be cooled to about
300c in order to obtain full colour yield. Therefore when
IK dyes are to be used it is preferable to dye by the
two-bath process.
Typical dyeing recipe- Disperse dye-X%
Vat dye-Y%
Dispersing agent-0.5-1%
Wetting agent-0.5-1%
Ph-4-5(attained with 1-2 ml/l of 30% acetic acid)
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Oxidation and soaping Oxidation and soaping can be be achieved

simultaneously using the following recipe:

Hydrogen peroxide(35%) 1-2 ml
Anionic detergent -.5-1g/l
Ph-9-10
First treat the material for 10-15 min. at 500c
with hydrogen peroxide. Then the anionic
detergent and raise the temperature to 95 0c.
Soap for 10-15 min.
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Disperse/Vat dyeing system
Method is used when selected vat dyes severely. It

stain PET component during high temp dyeing.

Vat dye is added at 80c after PET part dyeing
rather than adding at the start with disperse dye.
Except it the whole process is same as the dyeing
in one bath one step.
DISPERSE/REACTIVE SYSTEM- Same as one step
dyeing except the addition of reactive dye at 80c.
This process is used for the reactive dyes which
are not stable up to 130c, due to which they can
not be used in one step process
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Thermosol Dyeing
methodA) continious dyeing.
B) pad batch process.
Advantages of Thermosol dyeingContinuous process so it gives higher production.
Dye utilization is excellent.
Dye can be used afterward.
No carrier is required.
Fabric is processed in open width form so natural feel of

fabric do not get disturbed.

No crease formation.
Lower energy is required than batch.
No extra heat setting is required
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Disperse/vat dye systemPDPS method( continious

method)

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ONE BATH ONE STEP THERMOSOL DYEING

WITH DISPERSE AND REACTIVE DYES.

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CHEMICAL RECIPE & PROCEDURE.

Chemical recipeDisperse dye-x g/l
Reactive dye-y g/l
Sodium bicarbonate or soda ash-5-20g/l
Urea-100-200g/l
Migration inhibitor-10-20 g/l
Wetting agent- 1-2g/l
PROCESS-pad-dry-thermosol-cool-wash.

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PaddingPadding Temp-20-300 c
Liquor pick up-60-80%

ii) DRYINGFirst partial drying in infrared pre dryer and then fully drying.
Partial drying is done to avoid migration of dyes.
Drying is done at 120c.
iii) THERMOFIXATION
It is done at 180-220c, 30-45sec
It is the fixation step.

iv) PADDINGPadding bath contain NaOH + Na 2S2O4

V) STEAMING During this vat dye penetrated inside the cotton part. Then

oxidation, soaping and finally washing.

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One bath one step dyeing

process-Disperse/Reactive dyes.
Padding in the second step is done using NaCl + NaOH
H- brand reactive dye is used.
Fixation is done during steaming with saturated steam

(102c) for 30-60 sec.

Then washing ,soaping and again washing.
Recipe-Disperse dye-x g/l
Reactive dye-yg/l
Sodium bicarbonate or soda ash-5-20g/l
Urea-100-200g/l
Migration inhibitor-10-20 g/l
Wetting agent- 1-2g/l.

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Dye
conc(g/l
)

<10

20

30

40

50

60

Sodium
silcate
(ml)

70

70

70

70

70

70

Caustic
15
soda(ml)
Thermofix
Temp.

18

21

24

27

30

Time(sec)

140

160

180

60-90

45-60

30-45

Dye
conc(g/l)

10

20

30

40

50

Urea(g/l)

20

40

60

80

100

Soda
ash(g/l)

10

10

10

15

20

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- NEW APPROACHES OF DYEING

OF P/C BLEND FABRICDyeing with Reactive Disperse Dyes in

Supercritical carbon oxide.

Dyeing of 80/20 PET/COTTON blend by
using azeotropic solvent.
Polyester/cotton blend fabric with
sulphatoethyl sulphone disperse
/reactive dye treatment.
One-bath dyeing PET/COTTON blend with
azohydroxypyridone disperse dye
containing a fuluorosulfonyl.
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Dyeing with Reactive Disperse

Dyes in Supercritical carbon oxide.
What is supercritical CO2 ?
It is a naturally occurring that is chemically

inert, physiologically compatible, and

relatively inexpensive.
It is nonflammable, it is supplied either from
combustion process or volcanic process
without the need of producing new gas & it is
recycled in a closed system.
No disposal problem.
Easy to handle.
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35

Hydrophobicity of CO2is useful in dyeing of polyester fibre or

fabrics with disperse dyes as disperse dyes are also
hydrophobic in nature and can dissolve in super critical CO2
and can easily penetrate in polyester fibre or fabrics.
SC- CO2 act as a solvent in the range of 353-393k temp, and
10-20 M Pa pressure
For dyeing hydrophilic fibres like nylon, cotton- disperse dyes
are not suitable for SC- CO2 dyeing.
cotton can be dyed with fluoro triaziynyl disperse reactive
dyes at 120c in SC-. CO2
For efficient dyeing in SC- CO2P/C blend fabric is immersed
in the aqueous solution including 10% NMP( N-methyl-2pyrrolidinone) which act as a solvent for pretreatment .
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Pre-treatmentPretreatment
1% Na2CO3 + 10% NMP at room temperature for one hour +

squeeze
and dry at 373K.
When dyeing with this dye small amount of hydrogen fluoride
may be formed In the reaction but Na2CO3 present in the bath does
not allow hydrogen fluoride corrosion.
This HF from dyeing solution is passed to the calcium hydroxide
and recovered as calcium fluoride which is stable and harmless and
present in the nature in fluorite form.

If the same dye is uses in thermosol dyeing thanHomogenious dyeing is achieved in the SC-CO 2 method compare to
thermosol dyeing.
L/F was better in SC-CO2
In thermosol dye is sublime or dissolved by heating and penetrated
in the fibres so the fibre is selectively dyed while in SC-CO 2 dye is
dissolved in the CO2 which is dissolve in the swollen fibre.
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ADVANTAGE OF SC CO2 DYEINGCONVENTIONAL DYEING

DYEING IN
SUPERCRITICAL CO2

High volumes of waste water with No waste water at all. Dye

the residual dye chemicals, etc.
remains as powder. No need for
dispersing, leveling agents

High-energy requirements

Only 20% energy requirement

Dyeing/washing, drying times is 3-4 Only 2 hours.

hrs per batch.

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DYEING OF 80/20 PET/ COTTON BLEND

BY USING AZEOTROPIC SOLVENT
The blended fabric is pre-treated with the

azeotropic solvent. This solvent is directly

apply with pad-squeeze-dry technique.

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DYEING RECIPEDisperse dye-2%

Reactive dye-2%
Glaubers salt-5 gpl
Soda ash-3 gpl
Borax-5gpl
Ph-10 to 11
MLR-1:50
Temp-80,95,1100c
Time-30,45,60 min.

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41

SULPHONYL DISPERSE/REACTIVE DYES

TREATMENT BY CHITIN BIOPOLYMERSPre-treated the fabric NAOH solution.
The washing & rubbing fastness

properties improved.
The dyed sample show good rubbing
within the range of colour.
The colour strength of the dyed sample
of the dyed sample increased with
increase deposition of chitin on fabric.
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DYEING-

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44

Dyeing with Azohydroxypyridone

Disperse dyes containing a
fluorosulfonyl group- Advantages:
It is a one-bath dyeing of PET/ cotton blends .
alkali-clearable azohydroxypyridone disperse

dyes.
alkali-clearable azohydroxypyridone disperse
dyes .containing the fluorosulfonyl group under
high-temperature dyeing conditions is feasible.
Better fastnesss properties.
These dyes saves a lot of chemical energy.
Excellent levelness properties.
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DYEING-

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Conculsions 1.One bath dyeing of Polyester/cotton blend fabrics with reactive

disperse dyes in successful with SC-CO2 .The optimum dyeing

temperature and pressure are about 393 K and 20 Mpa respectively .
The dyeing behavior of Polyester/cotton blends is strongly affected by
the dyeing characteristics of the cotton side.The colour fastness of dyed
fabric is almost satisfactory ,but colour fastness become weak with a
decrease in the dyeing temperature. In addition ,the colour fastness of
fabric dyed in SC-CO2 is better than that with that the thermosol dyeing.
2.Treatment with chitin pretreatment give the good dry rubbing and

washing fastness . The alkaline pretreatment affects the greater

adhesion of chitin to the surface of polyester fibres, which is
manifested by the greater colour strength .Pretreatment in an
alkaline solution containing 10 g/l NAOH is permitted .The greater
amount of chitin used ,the worse affects are observed

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3. The same effect is observed in case of

azeeotropic mixture on the dyeing behaviour of

80/20 cotton blends .As the pretreatment time
increased dye uptake was found increase . The
slight improvement in fastness properties was
also found.

4. Dyeing of PET/COTTON blend with disperse dye

containing the fluorosulfonyl group under high
temp. dyeing conditions are feasible .Its decrease
our labour cost, chemicals, energy.

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References :

1.Basic Principles of Textile Coloration by Arthur D Broadbent -Professor, Universit de

Sherbrooke, Dpartement de gnie chimique, Facult de gnie, Sherbrooke, QC, J1K
2R1, Canada

2.Dyeing of polester/cotton blends by R.B.Chavan Department of textile technology IIT

Delhi

3.Chemical processing of textiles-1,NCUTE

4.Textile research journal Nov, 2004.

5.African journal of biotechnology vol.8(6),pp.1127-1135,20March,2009

6.International Scholarly Research Network ISRN Materials Science Volume 2011, Article
ID 907493, 12 pages.

7.Journal of the Textile Association March-April 2007.

8.Textile research division ,National research center Dokki,cairo,Egypt Dec-2002

Fibres and polymers2008,vol 9,No2,128-133

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Thank You
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