Costing of

Woven Fabric

Production Cost
Direct cost: Cost of raw material - 66%.
Cost of sizing and chemicals - 4%.
Production cost comprising of running
the machine, maintenance, power fuel,
humidification and other utilities - 8%
Worker wages and salaries -8%

Parameter of
Finance,distriubution cost
Interest on investment, loan,
working capital, depreciation, etc.
Above 7%,
Overheads and administrative
expenses like travelling, telephone,
couriers, legal issues, taxes.
- 7%

Cost Pie Chart

Cost of Woven Fabric
7%
4%
8%
8%

7%

66%

Raw
Material
wages &
Salaries
Utility Cost
Size &
chemicals
Adminstrativ
e expenses

Profit
Profit: 10 - 20% depending on the order
size

Cost of fabric

Cost of Grey
fabric

Dyeing
charges

Finishing
charges

Shrinkage

Wastage

Cost of the
fabric

Type of raw material

Raw material cost includes cost of fiber or
yarn.
1. The cost of the fiber will depend largely
on its generic type
cotton, linen, wool, silk, rayon, nylon, polyester,
polyester cotton blend etc, and also its quality

2. The Yarn cost will depend on

.Count of the yarn -- finer the yarn, more
expensive it will be.

Carded or combed: Combed yarns are more expensive

than carded yarns as yarn realization is only about
70% incase of combed yarns because short fibers are
removed where as in case of carded, the yarn
realization is about 88%. All finer counts above 40s
are generally combed yarns. Method of spinning-openend or ring spun. Open end yarns are cheaper as the
cost of manufacturing is less. It is used for coarser
yarn count below 20s.
cost of man-made spun yarns will depend on the
fineness -- finer the yarn, more expensive it is.
Number of fine filaments used in making the yarn will
also affect the cost.
Bright or dull -- Bright yarns are more expensive than
dull. Textured yarns are more expensive than flat
because of the additional process cost.

Amount of Raw material

or GSM of the fabric
GSM (grams/sq mt) of the fabric.
GSM is directly dependent on
1. EPI and PPI
2. Construction of the fabric
3. Count of the yarn.

Relation between GSM and cost is a little

complex.

E.g. For the same variety of the fabric, as

the GSM increases the cost increases (see
bar graph for poplin and sheeting).

But when the yarn becomes very fine and

there is a variation in picks per inch in the
fabric, then the cost of spinning and
weaving plays a more important role than
the GSM and even when the GSM is
similar, the cost of voile fabric with finer
yarns and more picks per inch is more!


Weight of warp in gm/sq mt of fabric = = A
Weight of weft in gm/sq mt of fabric = = B
GSM = A+B

Sizing and Chemicals

Cost
The sizing cost depends upon the count of
the yarns.
The count becomes finer the sizing and
chemical cost increases as a rich solution of
better quality of size and chemicals is
required for better strength.
One needs to add Rs 35/kg as additional
cost which includes steam, power or wages.
For two plied yarn no sizing is required.

Production cost or
Cost of Weaving process
Machine running cost
Maintenance cost
Labor cost
Power & fuel, etc.
The weaving cost is affected by the
beam size -- if the beam is small in
length, the cost will be more as beam
gaiting and knotting will add to the cost.

Mill-made or power loom made:

The quality of mill-made fabrics is better than
power loom made fabrics in terms of yarn
quality; Therefore the cost of fabric is higher.
At times it can be as high as 25%.

The weaving cost is expressed as

paisa /pick/inch/sq mt.
Depends on
1. Fabric weaves & construction
2. Type of loom
(power loom, air-jet, dobby or jacquard)

Cost of Fabric
The cost of weaving of 40 width fabric for rapier
loom
For plain weave fabrics= 8 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt
For twill weave fabrics = 12 paisa/pick/inch/sq
mt.
For satin weave fabrics = 12 paisa/pick/inch/sq
mt.
For dobby fabrics = 12 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt.

 P/V suiting fabrics

= 14 to

20paisa/pick
For 1,000 m beam with dobby fabrics = 17
paisa/pick
For 1,000 m beam with jacquard fabrics = 20
paisa/pick.
For 2400 hook jacquard fabrics = 40
paisa/pick/inch/sq mt.
For double beam fabrics like seer sucker,
The cost is = 20 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt.

Wastage and shrinkage

Wastage of 2 - 3% in warping and
weaving
Shrinkage of 1 - 1.5% from loom to grey
folding stage
The value loss;
7% cotton material
3% in using polyester yarn.

Cost of dyeing
Length:
A minimum of 2,000 mt of fabric is accepted.
More than 15,000 mt or 20,000 mt, then the
processing charges will be lowered by Rs 1 2/mt.

Width of the fabric:

The overheads and cost of running the
material are dependent on the length and not
the width.

Shade%:
Lighter the shade lower the cost. The amount of dye
required is less as well as time required for dyeing is
less.
Eg, for dyeing light blue shades if it takes 24 hours, it
takes 36 hours for dyeing black shades and burgundy
colour

Class of dye and quality:

Some dyes are more expensive than the other.
Eg, Vat dyes are m ore expensive than reactive dye

Colour:
Within the same dye class some colours are more
expensive than the other. For eg, turquoise and reds
are more expensive.

Metamerism:
Some colors change their shade in different lights. If
the shades are matched in two or three lights only
then the cost is less, but when the matching is
required in all the six lights,

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

natural daylight (D-65),

Tube light (TL-83),
Horizon (yellow light as produced during sun set),
Incandescent, (Inca-A),
Fluorescent (CWF or cool white Fluorescent),
Ultraviolet light (UL-30 or ultra luma),

then better quality dyes are required and the cost is

more.

Finishing cost
Process Cost
Flame retardant finish-----15Rs/mt
Antistatic finish-------5 Rs/mt
Anti stain--------------10Rs/mt
Anti wrinkle-----------5Rs/mt

Weight of the fabric:

Lighter the fabric quicker is the dye pickup so dyeing time is saved.
Capacity of the machine is expressed in
weight of the material
Lighter weight fabrics more length of the
material can be processed at one time, so
dyeing cost is reduced.

Shrinkage in Various
fabric
Poplin, Sheeting-----------------------------3%
Cotton Voile, cambric----------------------5%
Polyester/Viscose blend fiber-dyed-----4.5-5%
Polyester viscose piece dyed--------------6%
100% grey polyester------------------------20%