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EMBELLISHMENT
SHAZMAH BASHARAT
Ph.D. Scholar
Textiles & Clothing
College of Home
Economics
Introduction
Textiles is a non verbal language of the
people.
Raw materials speak of Geo- Climatic region
& trade linkages.
Techniques speak of Civilizations as well as
links with others.
Motifs tell us of their beliefs, legends &
myths.
And, Embroidery is an expression of
creativity that embodies all the above.
needle"
"painting by
Zari Embroideries
After the dispersal of craftsmen from the Royal
Karkhanas, they were setup in provincial capitals
by the Nawabs.
The craftsmen brought their skills to these
provincial courts and worked on commission or
for the prosperous towns people.
From the second half of the 18th century to early
20th century, two distinct types of gold
embroideries found ready patrons
The Zardozi & Kalabattu
The ZarDozi
This is a heavy and more elaborate silver gilt
thread work upon a foundation padded with
cotton thread or paper.it also uses varieties of
gold threads, spangles, beads, seed pearls,
wire, and gota. It is used to embellish wedding
outfits, heavy coats, cushions, curtains,
canopies, animal trappings, bags, purses,
belts, and shoes. The material on which this
kind of embroidery is done is usually heavy
silk, velvet and satin. The kind of stitches
found are salma-sitara, gijai, badla, katori, and
seed pearls, among others.
The ZarDozi
Kalabutta
Kalabutta work is light delicate
embroidery, in gilt silver or silver
thread, strips of gilt silver
spangles upon fine silk, cotton or
muslin.
Kalabutta work adorned saris,
odhnis, borders, skirts and a
variety of dresses.
Makaish
Gota is
a band of gold or silver ribbon
of that varies with width,
woven in a satin weave. Gota`
and `Kinari` are golden and
silver coloured pieces and
laces those are sewn on the
cloth. The work is done on the
fabric with the appliqu
technique. With hemming or
simple running stitch the gota
is attached in stylish design
regional Embroideries
Applique/ ralli:
For this mill made medium
weight white cotton cloth
forms the base on which
Patches of various tints
,shades ,sizes and shapes are
arranged in a pictorial pattern
later trimmed, slip stitched
,whipped sometimes and
finished with running stitch
and button hole.
regional Embroideries
Applique/ ralli:
The quilts made by
patchwork known as Ralli
are the traditional product of
Rajasthan. The quilt is made
by sewing several layers of
old fabrics ,where the upper
most layer being made of
new cotton cloth. The colors
used for patch work are olive
green, brown, maroon and
black.
The corners are decorated
BEADWORK
Chamba Rumals
The Chamba Rumals are made of fine
cotton or muslin and are embroidered with
silk and sometimes with silver and silver
gilt wire.
The rumals, handkerchiefs, were used on all
festive occasions as a symbol of goodwill
and affection. They were presented as gifts
and were used for wrapping gifts
exchanged at weddings.
Colors are bright and boldorange, red,
black, yellow, ultramarine, purple, pink and
green.
The work was so exquisitely done that it
looked exactly alike on both sides.
Chikankari
Chikan is a traditional embroidery style
from Lucknow, India. Literally
translated, the word means embroidery.
Believed to have been introduced by
Nur Jehan, the wife of Mughal emperor
Jahangir, it is one of Lucknow's best
known textile decoration styles.
Chikankari is a delicate and artfully
done hand embroidery on a variety of
textile fabric like muslin, silk, chiffon,
organza, net etc. White thread is
embroidered on cool, pastel shades of
light muslin and cotton garments.
Sindhi Ajrak
The word Ajrak is derived from
an Arabic word azrak which
means blue. It is a cloth of 2.5
3 meters length, decorated
mostly with rich crimson and a
deep indigo color but a little bit
of white and black is also used
to give definition to the
geometric patterns. It is
commonly used in Sindh as
men use it as a turban and
curled it around the shoulders
while women use it as a shawl.