Coastal Engineering

Challenges
(Motril, 2005)
J. W. Kamphuis
Queens University
Kingston, ON, Canada
K7L 3N6
kamphuis@civil.queensu.ca
J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 1
 Challenges for
Coastal Morphology and
Evolution

(I cheat a little)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 2

 Approach
I trust others will adequately
address science requirements.
This presentation addresses very
practical needs for engineering
studies and designs.

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 3

 Summary
1. Sediment Transport (as example)
2. Data Aquisition
3. Uncertainties
4. Integration
5. Co-operation and Communication

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 4

1. Sediment Transport
(as example)

Bulk
Direct measurements

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 5

 Model Results Kamphuis (1991)
1
Calculated Transport Rate (kg/sec under water)

0.1

0.01

Qcalc
Eq. 7
0.73
1.27

0.001
0.001 0.01 0.1
Measured Transport Rate (kg/sec under water)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 6

 Model and Field Results Kamphuis (1991)
1000

Larger
Calculated Transport Rate (kg/sec under water)

100

Uncertainty !
10

0.1 Verification !
Qcalc
Eq. 7
0.01
0.73
1.27

0.001
0.001 0.01 0.1 1 10 100 1000
Measured Transport Rate (kg/sec under water)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 7

 Filling the Gap: VHP Model Tests Added
Calculated Sediment Transport Rate (kg/sec) 1000

100

10

Model
0.1 Field
Eq. 12
CERC
VHP-Irr
0.01 VHP-Reg

0.001
0.001 0.01 0.1 1 10 100 1000
Measured Sediment Transport Rate (kg/sec)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 8

 Newer Field Data
1000

Newer, more modern results !

Calculated Sediment Transport Rate (kg/sec)

100

Same scatter !
10

1
Model
Field
LM
0.1 IR
Miller
Balouin
Eq. 12
0.01

0.001
0.001 0.01 0.1 1 10 100 1000
Measured Sediment Transport Rate (kg/sec)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 9

1. Sediment Transport

Bulk
Direct measurements
Inferred

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 10

 Sediment Transport at Keta, Ghana
1000

900 More-or-Less
800
Unidirectional Transport
Sediment Transported (1000 m3)

700

600

500

400

300

V(Eq. 15)
200
V(Cosmos)
Vmin
100
Vmax

0
0 50 100 150 200 250
Time (days)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 11

 Comparison of Sediment Transport Rates at Bovbjerg,
Denmark
50000

40000
Low with respect to
30000
y=x
DHI model
Eq 15 Transport Rate (m3/day)

20000

10000

-10000

-20000

-30000

-40000

-50000
-50000 -40000 -30000 -20000 -10000 0 10000 20000 30000 40000 50000
DHI Transport Rate (m3/day)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 12

Comparison of Sediment Transport Rates at Bovbjerg,
Denmark
4000

3000 y=x

2000
Eq 15 Transport Rate (m3/day)

1000

y = 0.94x
-1000 R2 = 0.62

-2000

-3000

-4000
-2000 -1500 -1000 -500 0 500 1000 1500 2000
DHI Transport Rate (m3/day)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 13

 Sediment Transport at Adra, Spain
35

30 Much Room for

25
Sediment Transport Rate (1000 m3/yr)

Interpretation
20

15

10

Qcalc
5
Qmeas

-5

-10

-15
1 2 3 4 5
Region
J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 14
 Sediment Transport at Richards Bay, South Africa

2000
Qnet = Pavg ?

1500
Sediment Transport (1000 m3/yr)

1000

500

P+D
(P+D)avg
P = Profiling the beaches
P
0 D = Dredged Material
Pavg
Q = Eq. 15
Q(net)
Q (north)
-500
1979 1980 1981 1982 1983
Year
J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 15
 So?
Simplest Calculation Bulk
Sediment Transport is:
Crude

Not good

Does not look like it will improve

substantially in the near future.

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 16

1. Sediment Transport

Bulk
Direct measurements
Inferred
Detailed

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 17

 Comparison of Detailed Expressions

Hs = 1.0 m

100 > 2 orders !

10
Bijker (DUT)
1 BB (DH)
S (kg/ms)

0.1 Van Rijn (DH)

IMAR
0.01 UCNW
0.001 HR
DHI
0.0001

0.00001
0 0.5 1 1.5 2

Um (m/s)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 18

 Is this OK ?

No
Credibility
So how can we improve on this
very basic computation (and
other unknowns)?

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 19

 Obtain more data
Reduce uncertainties in the data
(better data)
Write better models for detailed
sediment transport
Generalities ?

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 20

1. Sediment Transport
2. Data Aquisition

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 21

 Field measurements are the truth, but:
Test conditions cannot be designed
Boundary conditions cannot be
manipulated
Long-term steady conditions
impossible
Tests cannot be repeated
Close observation of details is difficult
Bias toward low energy and good
weather
Expensive (therefore, few and short)
J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 22
 Improve field measurement by:
Reduction of mobilization and other

costs
Making experiments more

transportable
Use new or different technologies

Develop some common standards

And

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 23

 Improve dataset through the use of
physical models in addition to field data,
The shortcomings of field measurements
(expense, poor observation, long-term
steady conditions, etc.) are strengths of
physical modelling
Perfect match?

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 24

 The model studies may (will?) need to be
Very Large Physical Model (VLPM)
studies,
VLPM studies have all the strengths of
physical modelling, but..
Who will build the facility?

Is it economically justified?

Commercially not viable.

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 25

 Also: VLPM experiments are like field
experiments:
Extensive planning and long lead times
Collective exhaustion of the researchers;
recovery takes years?
Therefore extensive downtime of facility
Someone needs to finance
Experiments
Facilities
Downtime

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 26

 And:
We have not mentioned a 3-D VLPM
Yet, we cannot do without the VLPM
simulation of prototype conditions.
Of course there is more we can get from
VLPMs than data.

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 27

 Challenges
1. Good estimates of sediment transport
rate (and other basics)
2. Support and awakening to VLPM
simulation of prototype conditions to
add to data bank.
3. 3-D VPLM

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 28

1. Sediment Transport
2. Data Aquisition
3. Uncertainties

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 29

 Examples of uncertainties are:
Natural (climate seismic, geo, etc.)

Operational (construction,

deterioration, maintenance, etc.)

Process (from beginning to end)

Data
Model

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 30

 Process uncertainties are:
Uncertainties in the end result

Cumulative

More sophisticated study

more uncertainty
Cause projects to be challenged

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 31

 Data uncertainties are:
Measurement errors

Inadequate sampling (space, time,

frequency, duration)
Handling, transcription, etc.

Solutions are obvious

Discussed earlier as Data Aquisition

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 32

 Model uncertainties are due to:
Formulation (improving)

Parameters (up to 2 orders and

not improving)
Numerical methods (improving)

(So Not just the data!)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 33

Primary Chain of Impacts Fish
Dredge Plume
Birds
Less Exposed Mammals
Lee Shore
Fishing
Construction Widening of
Littoral Zone Safety

Recreation
Decrease in
Nearshore Depth Ports

New Sea-Land Navigation

Interface
Cables, Pipe
J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 34
 One Secondary Chain of Impacts
Dredge Plume
Dredging
Silt Content Foam Formation
Operation
Phytoplankton Recreation

ZooPlankton Benthic
Community
Fish Fishing

Birds

Mammals
J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 35
 Another Secondary Chain of
Impacts:
New Sea-Land Interface

Feeding
Island Birds Airport
Breeding

Mammals

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 36

 Growth of Uncertainty
Primary Production Fisheries,
Flow Fish, Birds, etc
Sediment, Mammals
Morphology Uncertainty

Near-Field
Far-Field
J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 37
Contemporary Decision Making Process

Stakeholders from many

backgrounds, each with
Knowledge
personal and
(Theory + Uncertainty

organisational biases and

Experience)
perception of risks, who do
and Data
not understand how to deal
with uncertainties
Models, Design, Trial and Error
Best Engineering Estimates,
Includes Subjective Probabilities
(Engineering Judgment) Decision-making authority

(GAMSI) Decision
J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 38
 Suggestions
to reduce Process
Uncertainty

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 39

Suggestion
Uncertainty

Improve the numerical models (now the most

crucial tool in analysis and design!)
Formulation, parameters, numerical

Research on interactions (e.g. flow and)

Cohesive materials (erosion)

Pollutants (water quality)
Vegetation (fish habitat)
Better calibration, verification data

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 40

Suggestion
Uncertainty

(Much) more (good) research on biology,

fisheries, etc.
(Much) more communication with
biologists, chemists, etc.
(Much) more interdisciplinary research
and exchange of technologies

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 41

Suggestion
Sediment and Morphology
Flow New (Aggregate) Models

Uncertainty

Near-Field
Short Term Far-Field
Long Term
J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 42
Suggestion
Uncertainty

Engineering means solutions to real-life problems

Statistics and mathematics walked away from
reality (pure vs ??; objective vs subjective)
But pure and objective alone cannot provide the
complete answers for real problems.
Therefore judgment (subjective) needs to be:
Cultivated and used

Explained to decision makers and stakeholders

Developed in our young people

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 43

Suggestion
Uncertainty

Significance needs to be carefully defined

and determined (large uncertainty in an
insignificant aspect is OK)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 44

1. Sediment Transport
2. Data Aquisition
3. Uncertainties
4. Integration

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 45

Integration

Clearly the heart of any solution

today is the numerical model.
But it needs to be carefully
integrated with the other tools and
information.

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 46

Integration
Prototype Data

Data
Input Cal-Ver Monitoring

Computational
Physical Model Module
Physical Model
Physical Model(s) Numerical Model(s)

Output
J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 47
Integration

Composite Model
Processes are modelled
physically and/or numerically
models must be trustworthy representations
Process model results forms the bricks
simple, inexpensive, easy to understand tests
generic tests and results
repeatable results
repeated tests

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 48

Integration Composite Model

Computational module forms the

mortar
not necessarily a numerical model
(spreadsheet)
calibration (inexpensive)
what if? (inexpensive)
Not necessarily same provider for
various parts
Bank of process model bricks (I wish)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 49

Integration Composite Model

Data
Input Cal-Ver Monitoring

Computational Output

Module
Model
B.C.
Results
Process Models

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 50

1. Sediment Transport
2. Data Aquisition
3. Uncertainties
4. Integration
5. Co-operation and
Communication
J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 51
Co-operation and Communication
Anti-fragmentation
Tsunami is not an Indonesian Problem
Katrina is not an American problem
Global Climate change
Coastal erosion is not only a management
problem
Coastal is more than rocks and sand;
includes plants, animals and man
Research is not only university based
J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 52
Co-operation and Communication

Co-operation between:
Coastal scientists and engineers
Coastal managers with scientists and
engineers
Coastal scientists and engineers with
related coastal disciplines
Universities with consultants and
contractors
Sharing of technology (as EU)

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 53

Co-operation and Communication

World Centres of Excellence

Distinguished through topics and
disciplines, rather than geography.
Examples:
Fluid flow
Sediment transport and morphology
Mathematical and numerical methods
(basic tools development)
Physical modelling
Coastal biology

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 54

Co-operation and Communication

Technology Platforms
C of Es set up and manage
Information is sold by shareholders
Information is sold to shareholders
Only contributors benefit

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 55

Co-operation and Communication

Who will fund this?

No-one will leap forward
We must plant the seed
We must start co-operating more
We must make an effort to invite strangers
(other disciplines, nationalities) into our shop
We must communicate to funding agencies that
we can no longer work on a disciplinary or
national basis.

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 56

Co-operation and Communication

I see this happening !

But we need more
And we need it soon

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 57

 Summary
1. Sediment Transport (as example)
2. Data Acquisition
3. Uncertainties
4. Integration
5. Co-operation and Communication

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 58

 Summary
1. Sediment Transport (as example of 2, 3, 4, 5)
2. Data Acquisition high cost
3. Uncertainties medium cost
4. Integration low cost
5. Co-operation and Communication
medium cost

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 59

 Thank You

The paper is posted on

www.civil.queensu.ca
google: kamphuis canada

J.W. Kamphuis - Coastal Challenges 60