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Rewinding a

Brushless
Motor
Introduction

For this tutorial, I will be using Dynam E-Razor 450 Brushless Motor
60P-DYM-0011 (2750Kv). It is a Delta wound 8T (It means 8 turns )
quad wind.
The winding pattern described in this tutorial (called an ABC wind -
ABCABCABC as you go around the stator) works for any brushless
motor with 9 stator teeth and 6 magnets.
One coil of motor is completely burned
Definition of terms

Stator - The metal thing that holds the wire.


Rotor - The rotating part of the motor. This is the can on an out runner.
Armature - houses one winding. Each motor has a number of armatures
divisible by 3. Stator poles of 9 and 12 are common.
Turns - The number of tims a wire is wound around each armature.
Delta - Most common commercial termination. has three leads and no
neutral point. Spins 1.7 times faster than a WYE termination.
WYE - Less common in commercial motors. More efficient in some
cases. Has 1.7 times more torque than Delta
Knowing our motor

First, obviously you'll need to remove the old wires from the motor.
Be sure to count the number of turns around the armatures as this
will give you an idea of how to rewind the motor. The direction is not
particularly important at this point.
You will also want to note whether it is Delta or Wye terminated. A
Wye terminated motor will have three wires going to a central point
called the neutral, which is not connected directly to a motor lead. A
delta has no such connection, just three motor wires. Often the
neutral point one WYE has a piece of heatshrink over it to keep it
from shorting to the stator.
Our motor is Delta Connected.
Removing old coil
Starting the rebuild

Before you do anything, I highly recommend insulating the stator.


Take it from the king of stator shorts, a stator short can easily destroy
your speed control. I can not stress enough how much easier your
rewind will be if you do this.
Most stators will be already insulated, but if you cooked your motor
as well as I do that coating is toast, in wich case you'll need to
reinsulate it. Start by using a small hobby file to smooth all the rough
corners on your stator.
I used Black Rubber Paint.
Insulating Stator

Deep stator in black paint and take off.


Wait till paint set off.
This is procedure is optional.
If you burned the motor then its mandatory.
If you want to change motor specification
or your motor didnt cooked then it is optional.
Rewinding

Ok, now to rewind. First you must choose the number of turns you
want. My motor was 8 turns, and I liked it, so I'm going to rewind it
with 8 as well.
Here 8 Turns means , 8 strands of enamel coted copper wire are
connected in parallel which is wound on stator pole 8 times.
Here 36 AWG copper wire is used.
Rule of Thumb - less turns is a hotter motor and will yield a higher kv
and current draw. Go too low on this, however and the motor may not
run as the speed control may not detect the motor's position.
You'll also have to choose whether you want a Delta or WYE
termination.
We are using delta connection as it was factory default.
Getting winding Pattern

Now you need the winding pattern. This motor is an 9N6P (9 stator
pole, 6 magnet). Therefore the winding pattern is ABCABCABC (each
wire is wound every third tooth). This winding pattern will not work
with the very common 12N14P motor.
So before you start winding, count your magnets and stator poles and
determine the winding pattern from the list below. Lower case letters
indicate winding that tooth in the reverse direction.
9N6P-ABCABCABC
9N12P - ABCABCABC
9N8P (very rare) - AaABbBCcC
12N14P - AabBCcaABbcC <or> AaACBbBACcCB (I find this winding
easier)
Winding Design

As we are planning on terminating Wye, mark the ending terminal of


the wire. We'll need to join the ending terminals of all three phases
when it comes time to terminate the motor as shown in following pic.
Start winding

Now you can start winding.


I used New-b wire(36 AVG) from nearby winding shop.
It has extra insulation to prevent shorts. I chose three strands of 36
gauge wire. So it will be an 8 turn of 8 wire bundle wind.
Start winding with any pole you like. Go only in one direction (I went
clockwise). Once you complete the number of turns you decided on
earlier, skip two poles and continue winding the next. Repeat this
process until one third of the poles are wired. It should look like the
picture below when you are done.
Here third winding is to be done.
Now before you begin with your next set of armatures, check for
stator shorts with an ohm meter (multi tester). The resistance
between the wire and the metal of the stator should be infinite (i.e..
not continuity).
If you don't get a short, good job. Move on to the next set of
armatures. If you have a short, unwind that entire phase get a new
wire and start over.
Side note: When winding, do not tug on the wires too hard. 1-2 lbs is
plenty. Winding too tight will result in a shorted winding to the
stator. If you find that your wires are not snug against your stator you
can use a non metallic object such as a broken prop, flat carbon rod,
or my favourite, a credit card to slide between the stator poles.
Do tag the start and end of winding.
Here start tag is S1 and end of 1st winding is E1 as seen in pic on next
slide.
Ready for another set?

Ready for another set? Start with a new wire on any other pole and
repeat the above process. Make sure to test for shorts after each
phase.
You'll notice the stator becomes crowded very quickly. You can clear
some room with a dull object such as a credit card.
Dont forget to tag other winding start and end points.
Rewinding in final stage
Connecting windings

Now we have 6 wire ends tagged S1,E1,S2,E2,S3,and E3.


Connect E3 S1, E1 S2 and E2 S3.
Now we have 3 end which are motor
terminals A,B,C
Wire insulation

Add wire insulation to copper wire. Here I used insulation sleeve of


Multicore wire to insulate them as shown in
picture.
Bullet connector

Add bullet connector to motor terminals as shown in picture.


Add heat shrink tube coating
for extra strength and
insulation.
Done our motor is ready.