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MECHANISM
LOOM
Reed: It is a metallic comb that is fixed to the sley with a reed cap. The
reed is made of a number of wires and the gap between wires is known as
dents. Each dent can accommodate one, two or more warp ends. The count
of the reed is decided by the number of dents in two inches. The reed
performs a number of functions which are enumerated as follows:
It pushes the lastly laid pick of weft to the cloth fell
It helps to maintain the position of the warp threads
It acts as a guide to the shuttle which passes from one end of the loom to
the other.
It determines the fineness of the cloth in conjunction with the healds.
It determines the openness or closeness of the fabric.
There are various types of reed such as ordinary reed, gauze reed,
expanding reed, V reed etc.
Primary,
Secondary, and
Auxiliary
PRIMARY
Shedding: separating the warp threads -
Done with Tappets, Dobby, Jacquard
Picking: passing the weft thread
Beating-up: pushing the newly inserted length
of weft to the fell.
SECONDARY
Warp control (or let-off): this motion delivers warp to
the weaving area
Cloth control (or take-up): this motion withdraws
fabrics from the weaving area
AUXILIARY
Warp protector mechanism: The warp protector mechanism will stop the
loom if the shuttle gets trapped between the top and bottom layers of the
shed. It thus prevents excessive damage to the warp threads, reed wires
and shuttle.
Weft stop motion: The object of the weft stop motion is to stop the loom
when a weft thread breaks or gets exhausted. This motion helps to avoid
cracks in a fabric.
Temples: The function of the temples is to grip the cloth and hold it at the
same width as the warp in the reed, before it is taken up.
Brake: The brake stops the loom immediately whenever required. The
weaver uses it to stop the loom to repair broken ends and picks.
Warp stop motion: The object of the warp stop motion is to stop the loom
immediately when a warp thread breaks during the weaving process.
FABRIC REPRESENTATION
Cross-section diagram
Canvas
Plan diagram method
longitudinal-section diagram
Plan diagram
longitudinal-section
diagram
Cross-section
diagram
MAIN POINTS ABOUT THE CANVAS METHOD:
Repeat:
. Straight . Divided
. Skip and sateen . Grouped
. Pointed . Curved
. Broken . Combined
STRAIGHT DRAFT
Fig.1.9
SKIP DRAFT
This is used in weaving the fabrics with a high density of warp threads
for reducing the friction between thread and thread as well as thread
and healds
CONSTRUCTION OF DRAFT FROM A GIVEN
LIFTING PLAN AND WEAVE.
This diagram shown the lifting plan and the weave are given, and the
problem is to construct the draft.
To Construct the
draft
PRINCIPLE AND METHOD
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Plain cloth
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Warp rib Weft rib Regular matt Irregular matt Stitch matt Fancy matt
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warp rib weave:
These are produced by extending the plain weave in warp wary direction. In
Figure shows the warp rib weaves constructed on regular and irregular basis.
Weft rib weaves:
These are constructed by extending the plain weave in weft direction as
shown in Figure.
In both the warp and weft rib weaves, the appearance of the cloth depends on
the respective thread settings, and to achieve good effects, it is necessary to
weave a weft rib with a high number of picks per inch and a comparatively low
number of ends per inch. Similarly the warp rib effect can be enhanced with a
high number of ends per inch and a comparatively low number of picks per
inch. The prominence of the rib can be increased by suitable use of coarse
and fine yarns. The dependence of all rib constructions upon the correct
thread settings is marked.
Uses: Rib weaves are used in gross grain cloths, matelasse fabrics, repp cloth
which is extensively employed for window blinds in railway carriages and other
vehicles, upholstering furniture, and cambric picket handkerchief.
The most characteristic of twill is that they have diagonal lines on the cloth.
THE BASIC CHARACTERISTICS OF TWILL
WEAVES ARE :
(i)They form diagonal lines from one selvedge to
another.
(ii)More ends per unit area and picks per unit area
than plain cloth.
(iii)Less binding points than plain cloth
(iv)Better cover than plain weave
(v)More cloth thickness and mass per unit area.
FACTORS DETERMINING THE
TWILL
more convineaintly
RELATIVE
FIRMNESS
The intersecting of threads gives the cloth firmness, and the
more frequent the intersections are the firmer the cloth is
CLASSIFICATION OF TWILL
WEAVE
The above types of twills are further subclassified as:
(a) Warp face twills
(b) Weft face twills
(c) Warp and weft face twills
The twill weaves are produced in a wide variety of forms. They are however
classified broadly into important categories, namely :
(i) Ordinary or continuous twills
(ii) Zig zag , pointed or wavy twills
(iii) Rearranged twills such as satin/sateen weaves and corkscrew weaves
(iv) Combination twills
(v) Broken twills
(vi) Figured and other related twill weaves
CONTINUOUS
TWILL
CONTINUOUS
TWILL
Warp faced twill Weft faced twill Balanced & unbalanced twill
2/1, 3/1, 4/1, 5/1 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, 1/5 2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5
Zig zag , pointed
or
wavy twills
One of the simplest forms of modified twill is the
waved twill achieved by reversing the direction
of the twill at suitable intervals.
Notes:
Short warp or weft floats should be used so as to
avoid overlong floats when the weave is reversed.
Vertical angled twill weaves are achieved with
point draft.
Horizontal angled twills are achieved with straight
draft.
HERRINGBONE
TWILLS
The twill line of herringbone weaves is broken at
predetermined intervals to continue in the opposite
direction (reversal of direction).
DRAWN
Herringbone weave construction is similar to
angled twill except the repeat calculation.
C continuous twill
C1 Half broken
C2 frequent breaking
E2 brak size (3) and actual weave size (8)
Total ends= 24
2. ENTER AND SKIP (OR FILLING
AND SKIP)
Most suitable number to skip is one less than half
number of threads in repeat
For 2/2 twill,skip1(4/2 - 1), Fig A,B and C
For 3/3 twill,skip2(6/2 - 1), Fig D and E
The number of threads in the repeat of
design ascertained by noting position of
weave distant from each other
Fig F Repeat size of final design is as
follows
8(repeat of original twill)/1(downward) x
THE ANGLE OF
TWILL
The angle of twill is the angle between the diagonal twill line
This
and anangle is dependent
imaginary horizontal line on theparallel
or axis ratiotobetween
the weft.
Tan = / p1 = Po/Py
1
py
o