Colloid & Surface Phenomena

Moisturizing Lotion
Ika Yanti, M.Sc.
Jurusan Kimia Fakultas MIPA
Universitas Islam Indonesia
I. Product Design Considerations
Customer Needs
Heals dry skin
Prevents dry skin
Non-greasy
Fast absorbing
Non-irritating
Non-scented or Scented
Contains sun screen
Prevent further aging of the skin
Long lasting
 Product Design Considerations
Different Types of Lotion
For Dry Skin
For Extra Dry Skin
For Sensitive Skin
Manufacturers
Bath & Body Works
Suave
Keri
Bristol Meyer Squibb
Clairol
 Product Design Considerations
Product Specifications
Shelf life
Duration
Consistency
Viscous properties
Fragrance
Color
Absorption
Delivery systems of alpha hydroxide, sunscreen,
moisturizing agents
 II. Components and Composition
Common Components Present in Different Brands of Moisturing Lotion*
Suave Bath & Body Bristol The Andrew Body Benefits
Works Meyers Jergens Co.
Water X X X X X
Glycerin X X X X X
(Tetra, Tri, or Di-) sodium EDTA X X X X
Dimethicone X X X X X
Carbomer X X X
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) X X X
Aloe gel X X X
Petrolatum X X X X
Glyceryl Stearate X X
Sodium Hydroxide X X
Methylparaben X X X
DM DM Hydantoin X X
Benzyl Alcohol X X
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate X X
Propylparaben X X
Mineral Oil X
Isopropyl palmitate X X
Cetyl Alcohol X X X
Cetearyl Alcohol X X
Ceteareth-20 X X
* Components present in only 1 of the 5 lotions are not listed here.
 Approximate Composition of a Lotion Patented by
1
The Andrew Jergens Company (U.S. Patent# 6,017,548) Approximate Percent Weights
2
Chart # Components Approx. % Weight 3
1 Water 93.2 4
2 Glycerin 2.4
3 Dimethyl Distearyl Ammonium Chloride 1
5
4 Petrolatum 0.8 6
5 Lactic Acid 0.6
6 Isopropyl palmitate 0.6
7
7 Cetyl Alcohol 0.5 8
8 Glycolic Acid 0.4
9
9 Dimethicone 0.3
10 Ammonium Hydroxide 0.2 10
11 Methylparaben 0.02 11
12 Propylparaben 0.008
12
 III. Colloids and Surface
Interactions
Functions of colloids in Moisturizing Lotion
Diluent
Humectant
Smoothing aid
Emollient
Surfactant
 KERI FRAGRANCE FREE LOTION
Component Basic Function
Water diluent
Glycerin humectant
Dimethicone emollient, smoothing aid
Petrolatum occlusive emollient
Disodium EDTA chelating agent
Carbomer thickening agent, emulsifying agent
Quaternium-15 cationic surfactant, cationic emulsifier
Cetyl Alcohol emollient, emulsion modifier, coupling agent
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) nutrient
Steareth-2 emulsifier, wetting agent
Aloe gel nutrient
Benzyl Alcohol antimicrobial
Laureth-23 emulsifier, wetting agent
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate thickening agent
Sodium Hydroxide alkalizer, pH adjuster
Sensory aspect of cationic
emulsifiers
 Liquid/ Liquid Emulsion
An emulsion is formed when a mixture of two
immiscible liquids are separated by a surfactant
molecule.
Oil-in-Water (O/W)
Water-in-Oil (W/O)
O/W and W/O Emulsion
 Phase Inversion of Emulsion
Inversion from W/O to O/W
Variables which lead to phase inversion
Temperature Ethoxylate emulsifiers
Surfactant composition Hydrophilic emulsifier
concentration
Water concentration Andrew Jergens Co.
 Effect of Amphiphiles on
Delivery to the Skin
Cationic Surfactants
Effect of Temperature and Salt on micelle stability
Effect of Temperature on delivery
Pemulen Polymeric emulsifiers
Triggered release mechanism upon contact with
electrical charge of skin
Traditional Surfactant Emulsion
Pemulen Polymeric Emulsifiers
 IV. Product Attributes
Shelf Life
Emulsion stability is what determines the products
shelf like
If the emulsion becomes unstable the lotion will
separate
Adjusting the hyrophilic and lipophile balance of the
emulsifier achieves the emulsions stability
The emulsions are thermodynamically unstable due to
its positive interfacial energy
When the emulsion tries to reach it thermodynamic
equilibrium it causes the emulsion to break up back to
its component phase
 Product Attributes
Shelf Life
The delay of the component break up can be
accomplished by adding specific mixed emulsions
compiled of non-ionic and ionic surfactants and
combined with fatty amphiphiles
Examples can be found in Table 3
Previously blended emulsifying wax into the the
formulation can also help prevent the decay of the
emulsions
Examples can be found in Table 4
 Product Attributes
Table 3
Fatty amphiphiles Surfactants
Cetostearyl alcohol Sodium lauryl sulphate
Cetyl alcohol Cetrimide
Stearyl alcohol Cetomacrogol 1000
Glyceryl monostearate PEG 1000 monostearate
Stearic acid Triethanolamine stearate
Phosphatidylcholine Sodium stearate

Table 4
Emulsifying wax Component
Emulsifying wax BP Cetostearyl alcohol, sodium lauryl sulphate
Emulsifying wax USNF Cetyl alcohol, polysorbate
Cationic emulsifying was BPC Cetostearyl alcohol, cetrimide
Glyceryl monostearate S.E. Glyceryl monostearate, sodium stearate
Cetomacrogol emulsifying wax BPC Cetostearyl alcohol, cetomacrogol 1000
Polawax Cetyl alcohol, non-ionic surfactant
 Product Attributes
Shelf Life
The gel network theory of emulsion stability is
why both emulsifiers and mixed wax help the
shelf life period
The emulsifiers stabilize the oil droplets by the
formation of an interfacial film
 Product Attributes
Consistency
It is related to swelling properties and concentration of
the -crystalline gel phase
When the -crystalline form is in presence of very
small quantities of ionic surfactants and a fatty aclohol
and is dispersed in water the amount of swelling
increases
This leads to the swelling of the -crystalline gel phase
The water is in between the bilayers of the gel phase
and when it swells the volume ratio of dispersed phase
to the free continuous phase water increases
 Product Attributes
Evaporation and Absorption
When lotion is rubbed into the skin water
evaporates and the oil droplets coalesce
Coalescence occurs when the interfacial energy
between substrates and adatoms is small
The clusters can detach themselves from any given
location on the surface and diffuse as entities over the
surface
The clusters behave more like liquid than solid crystallites
 Product Attributes
Evaporation and Absorption
After the application of the lotion the
composition changes as the water and other
other volatiles solvents evaporate
A film stays on the skin as a protector and the
nutrients are absorbed
Absorption capacity increases with decreasing
viscosity
 Product Attributes
Viscosity
Emulsion size and concentration determines the
viscous properties
At the same shear stress and droplet
concentrations the viscosity of concentrated
emulsions containing smaller droplets was
significantly greater
This suggests that electrostatic repulsion plays
an important role in determining the rheology
of concentrated emulsions
 Product Attributes
Viscosity
The droplets become closely packed causing
the emulsions to be come rigid at lower
concentrations for smaller droplets because of
their effective volume fraction is greater
This explains why low emulsifier
concentrations are good for structured lotions
Lotions are not suppose to be very thick and
viscous
 Product Attributes
Fragrance
Fragrances are applied by collodial systems like
emulsions
The lipid part of the stratum corneum is organized in
lamellar structures
The lamellar liquid crystals in lotions contain the
fragrance molecules
The similarity of the configuration of the crystals in
lotion compared to the stratum corneum is why it easy
for the fragrance to be absorbed into the skin
The location of the interlayer spacings and the
geometrical characteristics play a big role on where the
location of the fragrance is
 Product Attributes
Improvements made to the skin
Liposomes have positive effects on the appearance of
the skin
Improve cutaneous hydration, skin structure, depths of wrinkles

Liposomes are spherical vesicles that have an aqueous

cavity at their center
They are used to carry water-soluble molecules and
hydrophobic molecules
Liposomes have been evaluated as delivery systems for
drugs, vitamins and cosmetic materials
 Product Attributes
Delivery Systems
Particulate systems are very small particles that
range from micrometers to millimeter
These particles deliver essential active
ingredients such as amino acids, plant extracts,
minerals, vitamins, antioxidants, and UV
protectants
They also prolong the time during which the
ingredient remains on the skin
 V. The effluence of structure of
moisturizing lotion (texture
parameter) on its use properties,
and control of its physical
properties
 Table 1. Texture profile
Primary parameter Secondary Popular terms
parameter

Mechanical hardness Softfirmhard

characteristics
Cohesiveness Crumblycrunchybrittle
viscosity Thinviscous
elasticity Plasticelastic
adhesiveness Stickytackygooey
Geometrical Particle size and shape Gritty, grainy, coarse, etc.
characteristics Particle shape and orientation Fibrous, cellular, crystalline, etc.

Other Moisture content Drymoistwetwatery

characteristics

Fat content Oiliness oily

greasiness greasy
Table 2. Texture profile parameter used
in the skin care product evaluation
Stage of Skin care product attribute and Texture profile
evaluation definite parameter
PICK-UP, THICKNESS-perceived Viscosity for lotions
product removed denseness of product.
from container, Evaluated as force required to
product poured squeeze between thumb and
or squeezed forefinger. Rated as thin-
from bottle onto medium-thick.
fingertips, or Or:
product lifted CONSISTENCY-perceived
from jar with structure of product. Evaluated
forefinger as resistance to deformation
and difficulty of lifting from
container. Rated as light-
medium heavy.
 Table 2
RUB-OUT SPREADABILITY-ease of Viscosity,
(application), moving product from point of cohesiveness,
spread of application over rest of face. springiness,
product over and Evaluated as resistance to gumminess,
into skin with pressure. Rated or described adhesiveness
fingertips using as: Other characteristics
gentle circular slips-very easy to spread (oil and water
motion at a rate glides-moderated easy content of product)
of two rub per drag-difficult to spread
second for a ABSORBENCY-Rate at which
specified period product is perceived to be
of time, absorbed into skin. Evaluated
depending on the by noting changes in character
product. of product and in amount of
product remaining (tactile and
visual) and by changes in skin
surface. Rated slow-moderate-
fast.
 Table 2
AFTER-FEEL AFTER-FEEL Type and Other characteristics-
(and intensity of product residue left (oil and water
appearance), on skin; changes in skin feel/ content)
evaluation of Product residue is described by Geometrical
skin surface with type, i.e. film(oily or greasy), characteristics-(gritty,
fingertips, coating(waxy or dry), flaky or powdery, etc.)
visually and powdery particles; the amount
kinesthetically of such residue is identified as
immediately slight-moderate-large.
after product Skin feel is described as dry
application and (taut, pulled, tight);
possible at moist(supple, pliant),
varying intervals oily(dirty, clogged).
thereafter. Other sensations are also noted
and identified where
applicable, i.e. clean,
stimulated, irritated, etc.
 1. Factors influencing the lotion
physical parameter
(1). THE EMULSIFIER
The emulsifier is the most important role in
the emulsion in producing the characteristic
flow properties.
 (2) THE DISPERSE PHASE
There are many parameters related to the
disperse phase or internal phase that exert
rheological changes in emulsions, including:
nature of the oil; viscosity of the oil;
particle size; particle size distribution; and
particle shape. Particle size and particle size
distribution also depend on the emulsifier
concentration.
 (3) THE CONTINUOUS PHASE

The rheological behavior of a lotion is most

often determined by the rheology of the
continuous phase.
(4) PHASE VOLUME RATIO
Generally, it has been found that the
rheological parameters of an emulsion
increase with creaseing the phase volume
ratio.
 2. The effects on the behavior of
lotion during lotion processing

(1) Mixing
(2) Heating and Cooling
(3)Homogenizing
 (1) Mixing
Mixing is necessary to blend a water phase and oil
phase into an lotion
A high amount of mixing energy can decrease the
particle size of the dispersed phase and hence
affecting the emulsion viscosity
lotion may be shear sensitive to some degree and
mixing can be used to get the desired product
viscosity by properly manipulating the mixing
variables
 (2) Heating and cooling
Heating is generally not a problem in cosmetic
processing because the product is usually fluid at
elevated temperatures
Cooling is more commonly a problem with
cosmetic emulsion because it generally increases
product viscosity greatly
Cooling has a more important relationship to final
product viscosity because of its effect on
crystallite size and dispersion
 (3) Homogenizing
The cosmetic industry usually resorts to
homogenization for dispersing solids and
insoluble liquids in a liquid phase and
reducing the dispersed particles to a
minimum size
 VI. Manufacturing Process
The objective is to disperse one liquid
within another in an extremely fine form to
make certain that separation due to settling
either does not occur or takes place very
slowly.
Does not normally involve any extraction or
chemical reaction.
 A Few Parameters that may influence
liquid-liquid emulsion formation
Shear rate
Sufficient stabilizers need to be present to
maintain the smallest droplet size produced for
long periods of time.
Blend time and standard deviation of circulation
time.
These along with many other parameters make it
difficult to specify a mixing process based on
desired droplet size. Most predictions are based
on existing data.
Pilot Scale Manufacturing Process (US Patent# 6,017,548)
 Federal Rules and Regulations

GMPs Primary objective is to ensure that

manufacturers provide consumers with safe and
effective products.
Parts 210 and 211 apply to manufacturing of drugs
and finished pharmaceuticals.
Part 210 contains a basic overview and some
definitions that are used in Part 211.
 Part 211
Gives a description of responsibilities of the
quality control unit.
States that proper training procedures must be in
place.
Buildings and Facility requirements
Cleaning requirements- Rooms and Equipment
Proper labeling and storage of materials
Batch Records
 Marketing Considerations
Packaging aesthetics
Fragrance
Color of Lotion
Shelf Location