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Beach Terminology
The inner shelf is a friction-dominated realm where
surface and bottom boundary layers overlap.
(From Nitrouer, C.A. and Wright, L.D., Rev. Geophys., 32, 85, 1994. With permission.)
Conceptual diagram illustrating physical transport
processes on the inner shelf.
(From Nitrouer, C.A. and Wright, L.D., Rev. Geophys., 32, 85, 1994. With permission.)
Ocean Waves
Ocean waves may be classified by the generating force
(wind, seismic events, or gravitational pull of the moon),
the restoring force, (surface tension, gravity, the earths
rotation), or the frequency of the waves.
Idealized Ocean Wave Spectrum
Wind Waves
A wind wave is
generated by the
friction of the wind
over the waters
surface.
As the wind blows over the surface of the water, friction and pressure
differences create small ripples in the water surface.
The wind pushes on the back side of the wave and pulls on the front,
transferring energy and momentum to the water.
As the wind continues to transfer momentum to the water, the wave
becomes higher.
Wave Growth
The area where wind waves are form and grow
is called the generation area.
The heights of the waves in the generation area are determined by three
factors: wind speed, duration, and fetch.
Duration is the length of time the wind is blowing. The longer the
wind blows, the higher the waves and more chaotic the seas.
Fetch
Fetch is the horizontal distance that the wind blows across
the water.
T = WAVE PERIOD
Time taken for two successive crests to pass a given
point in space
Definition of Terms
ELEMENTARY, SINUSOIDAL,
PROGRESSIVE WAVE
h=eta
WAVE CELERITY, LENGTH,
AND PERIOD
PHASE VELOCITY/WAVE CELERITY:
(C) speed at which
a waveform moves.
NOTE: L exists on
both sides of the
equation.
When d/L >0.5 =
DEEP WATER
Since:
Here,
Then:
Since:
(VERTICAL)
Water particle displacements from mean position for
shallow-water and deepwater waves.
As waves approach a shoreline the water shallows and they change
from deepwater to transitional waves.
As water shallows the waves steepen and finally break to form surf
which surges towards the shoreline.
When surf reaches the beach it rushes up the beach face as swash
and then runs back down the slope as backwash.
Swash and backwash moves sediment up and down the beach face.
SUMMARY OF LINEAR WAVES
C = Celerity = Length/Time
DISPERSION RELATIONSHIP
gk tanh( kh)
2
2
gT gT
L ; C
2 2
L T gh ; C gh
Komar, 1998
GROUP VELOCITY
1 2kh
Cg Cn 1
k 2 sinh( kh)
1
h H cos( kx t ) cos k x t
2 k
d
where Cg In the limit as the difference in
k dk frequency and wavelength tends
to zero
GROUP VELOCITY
2
Lg
k
Cg
C
Group envelope
HIGHER ORDER THEORIES
The distance
a particle is
displaced
during one
wave period.
In SHALLOW WATER
K = .4085376 YT = 1.065959
Keulegan and Patterson (1940) Cnoidal Wave Theory
SI Units (m) Wave Height = .25 Wave Period = 2 WaterDepth = 1.1
Deep Water Length = 6.24 Present Length = 3.757897 Elliptical Modulus = .4085376
T = 2s
H = 0.25m
NB. Umass
D = 1.5m Symmetry
Airy Wave Theory
LO = 6.24 L = 5.363072 Sediment
Time U(T) UMass Transport
T = 2s
H = 0.25m
Depth at which C.T.
D = 1.1m took place
Deformasi Gelombang
Breaking
Refraction
Diffraction
Reflection
49
Refraction
Orthogonal
Surf / Breaker
Zone
Shallow
Deep
52
Long shore Transport
53
Wave Diffraction
54
Wave Diffraction
Hd
r
b
Breakwater
Hi
q L
Wave Diffraction
Shadow Zone
Diffraction
Energy Transfer Coeficient
( K )
K = Hd / Hi
Orthogonal
Orthogonal
Wave Crest
K = f (r/L,
55 b,
q)
Refleksi Gelombang
58
WAVES BREAKING
tan b
0.5
Ho
Lo
0.5 3.3
3.3