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• The air taken in by the engine contains dust and other

particles which clog the carburetor passage, cause
rapid engine cylinder wear and oil deterioration.
• The air cleaner traps the dust and dirt particles in the
air with its filter, preventing them from entering the
carburetor and engine cylinders.
• If the filter becomes clogged with dirt, it has the effect
of reducing the cross-section and increasing resistance
to the airflow. This in turn makes the fuel-air mixture
richer, so that the total supply volume to the engine
drops and engine power output is reduced.
• For these reasons, the air cleaner must be inspected
periodically.

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• After removing the air cleaner, if the
element is full of dirt and dust, replace it.
• A filter element impregnated with water
or oil should be replaced, as trapped dust
and sand cannot be removed with
compressed air.
• Using an air gun, blow the dust and sand
particles out from the lower surface.
• Next, clean the upper surface and once
again blow evenly from the lower surface.
• Clean Air Cleaner Case: First use a
rag to wipe out the dust from inside the
case, then blow with compressed air.
• Install the element correctly in the air
cleaner case and assemble the case cover.

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• When the oil has become thick and dark, it
must be renewed and the air cleaner body
cleaned-out.
• The procedure for servicing this type of air
cleaners as follows:
1. Remove Air Cleaner Assembly from a
vehicle
2. Disassemble Air Cleaner (Fig. A)
3. Clean Filter Element & Air Cleaner
case (Fig. B) A

– Wash the filter element and air cleaner

case in kerosene, both agitating and
rubbing it.
– Wipe the air cleaner case and filter
element with a clean rag.
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B
4. Assemble Air Cleaner
– Place the air cleaner case on a level work stand and pour in
clean engine oil until it reaches the "OIL LEVEL" mark.
– If the oil level is too low, the filtering performance of the air
cleaner will be poor. If the level is too high, oil will be
sucked into the engine and have a bad effect on the engine's
operation.
– Place the filter element on the tray and saturate the filter
element with clean engine oil.

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 To prevent contaminants from reaching the fuel system components,
fuel filters must be changed or serviced at specific intervals.
 Fuel filters and elements are serviced by replacement only.
 Some vehicle manufacturers recommend fuel filter replacement at
48,000km.
 If dirty or contaminated fuel is placed in the fuel tank, it may be
necessary to replace the filter before the recommended mileage.
 A plugged fuel filter may cause the engine to surge and cut out at high
speed, or hesitate on acceleration.
• When servicing a series filter,
 the first-stage filter is generally changed more
often than the second-stage filter.
 The second-stage filter is often replaced with
every third first-stage filter replacement.

• Place a new gasket in the recess of the shell

and install a new gasket on the cover nut or
bolt. Then install the new element,.
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• After injection pump is overhauled it must be checked for:
• Proper functionality,
• Injection volume
• Injection timing
• Maximum fuel output
• Proper adjustment and adjusted if necessary.
• These tests and adjustments are carried out on a power driven
test bench embodying the necessary vacuum and pressure
gauges and equipment to test the fuel transfer pump and a
graduated glass to measure the injection pump back leakage.
• The following precautions must be observed when testing the
pump:
– Ensure that the power driven test bench is set to run in the
direction of rotation of the injection pump and connect up the
drive.
– Do not run the pump for long periods with the shut-off
control in the closed position.
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• Remove the hydraulic head locking screw, not the one
incorporating the vent valve, and connect the pressure gauge
by means of a flexible pipe into the head locking screw hole.
• Connect the feed pipe, preferably of the transparent type, to
the fuel inlet connection on the injection pump end plate. The
vacuum gauge should be fitted, by means of a ‘T’ coupling, to
the feed pipe.
• Connect the inlet connection on the measuring-glass to the
drain connection on the pump head and the drain cock on the
measuring-glass to the return pipe on the test bench by means
of flexible pipes.
• Remove the small set screw from the center of the advance unit
housing spring cap and assemble automatic advance gauge to
the spring cap with the degree scale and pointer uppermost
and the scale set to zero.
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• The pump and the feed pipe must now be filled and primed as follows:
1. Connect the fuel feed pipe to the inlet connection on the pump
housing.
2. Open the vent screws on the injection pump
3. Turn on the gravity feed. When test oil free from air bubbles flows
from the vent screw on the hydraulic head, close this vent screw. Wait
till the test oil flowing from the vent screw in the governor control
housing is free from air bubbles, then close this vent screw also.
4. Rotate the pump drive through 180° and repeat operations (2) and(3).
5. Fit the feed and return pipes to their respective connections.
6. Slacken (loosen) the high-pressure pipe unions at the injector end.
7. Start the test machine and run at 100 rpm until fuel is free from air
bubbles issues from the injector pipe connections.
8. Tighten the injector pipe connection while the test machine is running.
• The following tests are designed to check, in turn, each of the separate
functions of the injection pump.
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1. Vacuum test
• Start the test machine and run the pump at 100 rpm.
• Turn the test fuel feed cock to the 'off' position and note the
depression registered on the vacuum gauge.
• This should build up to 0.54 bar with in 60 seconds. Check the
fuel feed pipe unions for air leaks, indicated by the presence of
air bubbles in the pipe line. If necessary, tighten the feed pipe
unions and carry out a further test.
• NOTE -Do not run the pump for periods exceeding 60 seconds
with the test fuel supply turned off.
• After the vacuum test is completed turn on the test fuel supply,
and with the pump running at 100 rpm air vent the pump by
means of the vent valve on the hydraulic head locking screw to
bleed air from pump.
2. Pressure test
• Increase the pump speed to 800 rpm, the pressure specified by
manufacturer should be registered on the pressure gauge.

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• Adjust accelerator pedal lever to maximum fuel
injection position.
• Without altering any of the adjustments, check
that the fuel delivery at 800 rpm is according to
specified volume per 200 shots or injection.

• Run the fuel pump at 800 rpm.

• Move the shut-off lever to the fully closed
position and check that the advance reading is
3.5° to 4.5° (refer service manual for actual
advance angle).
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• The injection nozzle opening pressure is set to ensure that the
fuel injected by the injection nozzles will mix properly with the
air in the cylinder and burn.
• If the nozzle opening pressure is not correct, it will effect fuel
injection timing and injection volume.
• The nozzle opening pressure is adjusted by changing the
thickness of the adjusting shims or by adjusting the screw.
• If an adjusting shim is replaced with a thicker shim, the
opening pressure will become higher. If the adjusting shim is
replaced with a thinner shim, the opening pressure will become
lower.
• Adjusting shims of several dozen thicknesses are available as
supply parts for each engine.
• If an adjusting screw nut is tightened the opening pressure will
become higher.
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 1. NOZZLE OPENING PRESSURE TEST
1. Install the injection nozzle to the injection nozzle hand tester and
bleed air from the union nut.
2. Pump the tester handle a few times as fast as possible to discharge
the carbon from the injection hole.
3. Pump the tester handle slowly and observe the pressure gauge.
4. Read the pressure gauge just as the injection pressure begins to drop.
– If the opening pressure is not as specified, disassemble the
nozzle holder and change the adjusting shim on the top of the
pressure spring.

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2. LEAKAGE TEST
• While maintaining pressure at about 10-20kg/cm2 below
opening pressure (adjust by tester handle), check that there
is no dripping for 10 seconds from the injection hole or
around the retaining nut.
• If the nozzle drips with in 10 seconds, replace or clean and
overhaul the nozzle assembly.

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 3. SPRAY PATTERN TEST
• The injection nozzle should shudder at a certain
pumping speed between 15-60 times (old nozzle) or 30-
60 times (new nozzle) per minute.
• Check the spray pattern during shuddering.
• If the spray pattern is not correct during shuddering,
the nozzle must be replaced or cleaned.

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A. Disassemble injector nozzle (follow manufacturer procedure).
B. Wash parts in clean diesel fuel.
 Do not touch the nozzle mating surfaces with your fingers.
C. Tilt the nozzle body about 60 degrees and pull the needle out
about one third of its length.
D. When released, the needle should sink down into the body
vent smoothly by its own weight.
E. Repeat this test, rotating the needle slightly each time.
– If the needle does not sink freely, replace the nozzle
assembly.

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  Perform a visual inspection for:
 Coolant leaks
 Loose or missing fan belts
 Low coolant level
 Water pump noises
 Plugged radiator fins
 Coolant in the oil (oil looks milky)
 Combustion leakage into coolant

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 A bad pump may leak, fail to circulate
coolant, or produce a grinding sound.
 Causes:
 Rust in the cooling system
 Lack of coolant
 Over tightened belts

Pump shaft should not wiggle or leak

Watch for leakage from bleed holes

Turn the pulley and check that the water pump
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• Even the best drive belts last only an average of 4 years.
• Belt life time can be shortened by several things; most of these
can be found by inspecting the belts.
• Check the condition of fan belts on the engine, carefully look to
see if they have worn or glazed edges, tears, splits, and signs of
oil soaking.
– If these conditions exist, the belt should be replaced.
• Also inspect the grooves of the drive pulleys for rust, oil, wear,
and other damage. If a pulley is damaged, it should be
replaced.
Check a belt Tension:
 Check the drive belt deflection by
pressing on the belt at the center
points indicated in the illustration
with 10 kg of pressure.
 If the deflection is not as specified,
adjust it.
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• Thermostats are often the cause of engine overheating, increase
in fuel consumption and poor engine performance.
• A properly working thermostat is closed when the engine
coolant’s temperature is lower than the thermostat’s rating, and
opened when engine warmed-up to allow coolant flow to
radiator.
• If the thermostat is stuck open, the coolant may not reach
the desired temperature rapidly.
• If a thermostat is stuck closed, coolant will not flow between
the engine and the radiator.
• Testing a thermostat
I. The easiest way to check thermostat operation is to measure
engine temperature with an infrared thermometer.
However, you can use your hand to feel the
temperature (Fig. A).
– Touch the upper and lower radiator hoses when the engine is
first started. If the hoses do not become hot within several
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minutes, the thermostat is not opening.
II. By heating a thermostat in the heating plate (Fig. B)
1. Remove thermostat from vehicle and totally submerge it in a small
container of water, it should not touch the bottom of the container.
2. Place a thermometer in the water it should not touch the container
and only measures water temperature.
3. Heat the water.
4. When the thermostat begins to open read the thermometer.
5. Then remove the thermostat from the water and allow it to cool.
– If the valve stays open after the thermostat is removed from the
water, the thermostat is defective and must be replaced.

Fig. A: The operation of a thermostat can be

observed
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Fig. B: Testing a thermostat in the heating plate
• Reverse flushing of a radiator requires a special flushing gun
device that is connected to the radiator.
• Compressed air under low pressure, is used to force water
through the radiator core backwards.

• The air pressure is used intermittently

to loosen scale and sediment.
• Excessive air pressure should be
avoided to prevent damage to the
radiator.
• Starting and stopping the water flow
produces a fluctuation in pressure and
tends to loosen all foreign matter
clinging to the passages in the radiator
core.
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Procedures
1. First, remove the thermostat and disconnect the upper radiator
hose.
2. Then disconnect the lower radiator hose at the water pump.
3. Insert the flushing equipment in the upper radiator hose.
4. Reverse flush the system by sending water and air through the
water jackets and coolant passages.

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• Remove the cap from the radiator and visually inspect the condition of
the cap’s pressure valve and upper and lower sealing gaskets.
– If the gaskets are hard, brittle, or deteriorated, the cap may leak
when exposed to hot, pressurized coolant.
• Over time the spring in the cap can weaken and will lower the
coolant’s boiling point.
Testing radiator cap
– The opening pressure of the cap is measured by pressure tester.
Procedures:
1. Remove radiator cap from radiator.
2. Install the correct cap adapter and radiator
pressure cap to the tester head.
3. Pump the tester until the gauge reads the
pressure rating of the cap.
 The cap should hold that pressure for at least 1 minute. If it does
not, replace it.
 Apply a pressure greater than the cap’s rating. A good cap will
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I. INSPECT RELIEF VALVE
• Coat the valve with engine oil and check
that it falls smoothly into the valve hole
by its own weight.
– If it does not, replace the relief valve.
If necessary, replace the oil pump
assembly.
II. INSPECT DRIVE AND DRIVEN ROTORS
A. Inspect rotor body clearance
• Using a thickness gauge, measure the
clearance between the driven rotor and body.
 If the body clearance is greater than
maximum, replace the oil pump
assembly.
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 B. Inspect rotor side clearance
• Using a thickness gauge and precision
straight edge, measure the clearance
between the rotors and precision straight
edge.
– If the side clearance is greater than
maximum, replace the oil pump
assembly.

C. Inspect rotor tip clearance

• Using a thickness gauge, measure the
clearance between the drive and driven
rotors.
 If the tip clearance is greater
than maximum, replace the oil
pump assembly.
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• In order to preserve the environment, used oil and used oil
filters must be disposed of only at designated disposal sites.
• When engine oil has been replaced oil filter should be replaced.
Procedure:
1. Using SST, remove the oil filter (Fig. A).
2. Clean and check the oil filter installation surface (Fig. B).
3. Apply clean engine oil to the gasket of a new oil filter (Fig. C).
4. Lightly screw the oil filter into place, and tighten it until the
gasket contacts the seat (Fig. D).
5. Fill oil filter with clean engine oil (Optional)
6. Using SST, tighten it additional 3/4 turn (Fig. E).
7. After running the engine, check for oil leaks.

A B C E
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• Oil is the life-blood of an engine, it is critical that the oil and
filter are changed on a regular basis.
• To replace engine oil and filter follow the following procedure:
1. PREPARE A VEHICLE
i. Park a vehicle in level place.
ii. Allow the engine to run awhile. After it is warmed, turn off the
engine.
2. DRAIN ENGINE OIL
a) Remove the oil filler cap.
b) Remove the oil drain plug, and drain the oil into a container.
3. REPLACE OIL FILTER
4. FILL WITH ENGINE OIL
a. Clean and install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.
b. Fill engine with new engine oil of a recommended viscosity
number and API.
c. Reinstall the oil filler cap.
5. START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS
6. RECHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL
A. Stop the engine and wait until it cool down
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B. Check engine oil level using a dipstick
• When ever a manifolds are removed from cylinder head inspect
it for crack, bad gasket, and warpage.
• If the manifold is cracked or the sealing surfaces are severely
damaged, it should be replaced.
• A leaking manifold gasket is a common causes of internal
coolant leaks.
• A bad manifold gasket in intake can also cause vacuum leaks
and exhaust gas leaks if exhaust manifold gasket is defective.
• When installing a manifold, use new gaskets and seals.
• When the manifold is removed or there is evidence of a leak
between the manifold and the cylinder head, the sealing
surfaces should be checked for flatness (warpage).
• Using a precision straight edge and thickness gauge, measure
the surface contacting the cylinder head for warpage.
– If warpage is greater than maximum, replace the manifold.

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