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The Product Development

Process

Cosmetics, Toiletries, Insecticides,


Household Cleaning Products
Steps in The Product
Development Process
 Ideation
 Developing Product Specifications
 Market and Product Planning
 Concept and Prototype Generation
 Product Registration
 Packaging Design
 Further Formulation Development
Steps in the Product
Development Process (Cont.)
 Manufacturing System Design
 Review Packaging and Formulation
 Marketing Review
 Test Market (Optional)
 Refining of Product Before Major
Launch
 Major Launch
The Ideation Process
Definition:
The process of conceptualizing a new
idea for manifestation into a new
product
Corporate Sources of Ideation
 Observation of products in the
domestic market
 Observation of products in overseas
markets
 Trade Magazines
 Supplier Submissions
 Internet
 Trade shows and conferences
Corporate Sources of Ideation
 Lateral Thinking
a) Adaptation from other ideas (aircraft
toilets)
b) Ideas from handicraft markets (candles)
c) Observation of everyday consumer
problems (some insecticides)
d) Adaptation from an existing
industrial product (disinfectants)
Lateral Thinking (Cont.)
e) Correctly identified changes in
consumer lifestyles (bath & shower
gels, liquid soaps, insecticides)
f) Correctly perceived changing
consumer tastes (‘green products’)
Corporate Sources of Ideation
 New Government regulation in regards
to product registrations, toxicity,
occupational health and safety
(Disinfectants, Insecticides, herbicides)
Individual Sources of Ideation
 Observations in everyday life
 Trade magazines
 Patent summaries
 Ideas from friends
 Overseas trips
 New raw materials launched on the market
by suppliers
 Ethnobotancial literature
Examples from Ideation
Examples from Ideation
Examples from Ideation
Examples from Ideation
Examples from Ideation
Examples from Ideation
Examples from Ideation
Examples from Ideation
Examples from Ideation
Examples from Ideation
Examples from Ideation
Examples from Ideation
Influence on Mainstream
Industry
Mainstream Products from
Handicraft beginnings
Mainstream Products from
Handicraft beginnings
Mainstream Products from
Handicraft beginnings
Mainstream Products from
Handicraft beginnings
Mainstream Products from
Handicraft beginnings
Ethnobotany
Products Developed from
Ethnobotany
Products Developed from
Ethnobotany
Products Developed from
Ethnobotany
The Chemist and Ideation
 Development chemists are facilitators
for the marketing organisation
 Very few chemists submit new ideas
 The realism of the situation is that new
products are dependent upon the work
of the chemist (whether internal or
external to the organisation)
Dispelling The Myths of New
Product Development
 Less than 5% of new products launched on the
market are successful
 Out of 100 new ideas, less than 2 become a
commercial reality
 Most companies are followers and not innovators
(even the Body Shop)
 Very few really novel innovations are ever launched
commercially
 Most new products are incremental steps in
enhancement, rather than something completely new
(similar to the automobile industry)
Vanilla Breakthrough?
Catatonic Breakthrough?
To Soap or not to Soap?
Auto Breakthrough?
Developing Product
Specifications
Objective

To develop an idea into a list of criteria


that can be developed into a tangible
product
Developing Product
Specifications
 Project confirmed through a briefing by a
product manager
- will provide a product profile (wish list)
- Chemists, packaging designers and
manufacturing engineers will advise what can
be achieved and what cannot be achieved
- Constraints will be advised, manufacturing
capability, budgets, etc.
Developing Product
Specifications
 Chemists will determine:
a) Required functional aspects of
required product
b) Ascetic functions of required new
product
c) Determine feasibility of formulating
required new product
Developing Product
Specifications

One method of developing product


specifications is to look at the new
product as a system and define
individually each required function of
the product
The Product System Profile
Shampoo System Profile
Function Potential Material

Primary surfactant ALS, ALES, TLS, SLES, NaDOBS


Secondary surfactant/ Coconut MEA,
Foam Stabiliser Cocamide MEA, Cocamidopropyl Betaine or
amine
Pacifier/Pearliser Ethylene Glycol Distearate, Glycol Stearate
Viscosity Control Sodium chloride
Preservatives Potassium Sorbate, Diazolidonyl urea,
Methyl and Propyl Parabens
Functional Additives GuarHydroxypropyl Trimmonium Chloride
Panthenol, Dimethicone, Hydrolysed Keratin Protein
Fragrance Yes
Ascetic Ingredients Aloe Vera, Green Tea Extract, Panthenol
Dyes Yes
The Product System Profile
Laundry Detergent Powder
Function Potential material
Primary Surfactant Non-Ionic, APE
Secondary Surfactant Anionic, LAS
Foam Builder CDE
Builders Sodium Tripolyphosphate, Zeolites,
Sodium Carbonate
Bleaches Sodium Percarbonate
Anti-Corrosive Sodium Matasilicate
Dispersing CMC
Fabric Conditioners QAC, Clays
Stain Removers Enzymes
Optical brighteners Tinapals
Free flowing Agents Sodium Sulphate
Fragrance Yes
Dye Yes
Market and Product Planning
 A Product Manager will be appointed to
oversee the project development.
 Responsibilities:
a) Branding (image)
b) Packaging
c) Product
d) Budget projections
advertising, promotion, sales
e) Source of Production
Market and Product Planning
 The Development Chemist will report to the product
manager during this period and advise on:
a) Product compatibility with branding
b) Review of existing products in
market
- both in terms of benefits they offer the
consumer and standard of product
c) Formulation compatibility with packaging
d) Logistic considerations and effects on product
Chemist MPP Considerations
 Compatibility with Branding
have to ensure the finished product
formulation reinforces the brand image
the company wishes to market to
consumers
- colour, odour, softness, efficacy,
appearance, use of particular material
Chemist MPP Considerations
 Review of Existing Products in the Market
Products already in the market will be
reviewed as to appearance, efficacy, odour,
colour, image and benefits

This study will assist in determining what


benefits of the new product will be
highlighted in the marketing campaign
Chemist MPP Considerations
 Formulation is compatible with proposed packaging
A this point the product manager may already have
proposed packaging.
Considerations here for the formulator are:
a) Is the nature of the product compatible with the
proposed packaging?
b) What product bulk densities will be required?
c) Can the product be filled efficiently during
production?
d) Will the proposed packaging effect product
stability?
Choices of Packaging Materials
Choices of Packaging Materials
Choices of Packaging Materials
Choices of Packaging Materials
Choices of Packaging Materials
Chemist MPP Considerations
Logistic considerations are very important
to the formulation of a product. Many
retail outlets are open and suffer very
harsh temperature variations, which
may not be very kind to many different
types of products, especially emulsions
Logistic Considerations
Logistic Considerations
Concept and Prototype
Generation
 Concept and Prototype Considerations
a) Can the product meet organisational
expectations?
b) If not, what compromises are acceptable?
c) Where can I source raw materials and
obtain good technical support?
d) What type of product system is best suited
to the application?
e) Can product objectives be achieved within
company unit cost expectations?
Concept and Prototype
Generation
Can the product meet organisational
expectations? If not, what compromises
are acceptable?

What is realistic?

Period of negotiation and explanation


Concept and Prototype
Generation
 Where can I source raw materials and
obtain good technical support?

Selection of suppliers very important


Price is not necessarily the most
important criteria in selecting a supplier
Suppliers can do a lot of your work
Concept and Prototype
Generation
What type of product system is best
suited to the application?

Different systems can create the same


product
Gel Type Air Freshener
Systems
Gel Air Freshener Systems
Carrageenan CMC Di-limonene Co-polymers

Hot heat reversible High grade CMC Sodium stearate/ Newly developed
System, strengthened di-limonene soap co-polymers
With other gums

Easy to Manufacture Require very precise Easy to Manufacture Non-reversible


Hot Process manufacturing Hot Process heat process
proc. cold process
Examples
Kiwi Brands SC Johnsons Glade Various local car Japanese Brands/
products R&C Products

Cheap, versatile, Difficult manufacturing Does not dissipate Beautiful clear gels
Long term stability process, but can contain fully, grave expensive unit cost
Problems fine fragrances fragrance limitations
Formulation Systems
 Johnson & Johnson Clean & Clear Oil Controlling Astringent
Active Ingredients: Salicylic acid 0.5%
Base ingredients: Water, Alcohol
Functional Ingredients: Glycerin, PPG-5-
Ceteth 20,
Eucalyptus oil, Benzoic
acid, camphor,
peppermint oil, Clove
oil
Presevatives: Benzophenone-4, Denatonium Benzoate
Dye: Yes
Concept and Prototype
Generation
 Can product objectives be achieved
within company unit cost expectations?
You get what you pay for
Vary active levels
Functional Ingredients can
become ascetic ingredients
Fragrance is the most expensive
material, can vary dosage or quality
Concept and Prototype
Generation
 Another Alternative (This is the skill of a good
development chemist)

Look for alternative materials within the


system

If that doesn’t work,

Look for another system


Formulating the Prototype
 Project confirmed by Product manager
 Product Profile will be given (wish list)
 Review and evaluate functional aspects of product
 Review and evaluate ascetic aspects of the product
in many cases you can satisfy desired marketing
strategies with ascetics
 Begin to source materials required (this is the hardest
job)
 Develop a system profile
The Search for Raw Materials
 Don’t underestimate the time required
 Read literature, trade magazines and journals
 Read through all the trade show and
conference materials you store
 Look at patents
 See suppliers but don’t necessarily limit the
search through suppliers to the cosmetic
industry
 Keep the Merck Index handy
Formulating Considerations
 Formulation is an art as much as it is a
science
 Processes and blending are a critical
part of formulating
 Think, try, think, try, think, try, then
ask advice, then think, try again
General Formulating Hints
 Saponification has to be a though
process, otherwise there will be uneven
neutralisation of acids, leaving free
acids. This can lead to discolouration
and even separation
 The saponification process influences
what materials can be added in what
order
General Formulating Hints
 Allowance have to be made for natural
heating processes and colouration.
Impurities tend to influence this.
 Raw materials differ in specifications
and qualities and adjustments have to
be made for this
General Formulating Hints
 Remember the production procedure
has to be manageable and operated by
shopfloor personal. If you are
developing a complex procedure, break
it down into parts.
General Formulating Hints
 Each raw material will have an effect on
another. Some chemicals combined create
colouration, odouration, vary viscosities,
combine with free agents and cause
precipitation, or in drastic cases, splitting. It
is essential to be aware of these effects. In
many cases it is experience rather than
theoretical knowledge that we learn these
reactions
General Formulating Hints
 Choosing Surfactants
 Criteria:
a) cleaning performance
b) Storage stability
c) Viscosity
d) Foam generation
e) Consumer safety
f) Aesthetic appeal
General Formulating Hints
 Most cases have to use two because no
single surfactant can provide all of the
characteristics required
 Choose from non-ionic and anionic or
amphoteric
 Non-ionics tend to be harsh and need a softer
surfactant
 There are also synergistic effects from using
two surfactants
Example: Shampoo
 Primary Surfactant usually anionic
Lauryl sulphates will differ in their
characteristics depending on the
neutralising base
Lauyl Sulphate: Effect of
different neutralising bases
Sodium Ammonian MonoEA DEA TEA
Lauryl Sulphate Lauryl Sulphate Lauryl Sulphate Lauryl Sulphate Lauryl Sulphate

Solubility Increases

Viscosity Decreases

Cold Storage Improves

Mildness Increases

Cost Increases
Secondary Surfactants
 Characteristics of primary surfactant will
be modified by secondary surfactant
 Three general types to choose from:
a) alkyl (amino) betaines
b) alkanolamides
c) Amine oxides
Effects of Secondary
Surfactants on formulations
Main Features Disadvantages
Alkyl (amino) Mildness
Betaines Foam Stability Price
Viscosity Building

Amine Oxides Mildness


Foam Stability Price
Viscosity Building

Alkanolamides Foam Stability


Viscosity Building Less Mild
Cost
Formulating Fragrance into
the Product
 Making up little more than 1.0% of the
formulation, fragrance is up to 70% the cost
of the product formulation
 Fragrance part of brand image both overtly
and sublimely in the product
 Fragrance compounding is a very specialised
industry, so in 99% of cases fragrances are
purchased, rather than manufactured by
consumer product manufacturers
Formulating Fragrance into
the Product
 Usually a fragrance house is given a product brief outlining the
objectives of the proposed new product.
 The product brief will contain:
a) Product and intended use
b) Position in Market
c) Expectations from fragrance
d) Scent profile required
e) Production process anticipated for finished product
f) Expected process temperatures
g) Materials used in formulation
h) required cost/kg
i) dosage level
Formulating Fragrance into
the Product
 Fragrance companies are a major
source of development work in a new
product.
 Before making submissions, they should
test stability, colouration, effectiveness,
overall appeal.
Formulating Fragrance into
the Product
 Fragrances basically constructed with
base notes, middle notes and top notes.
 Base notes are the least volatile and top
notes are the most volatile
 Aroma chemicals and essential oils have
different flash and boiling points. This is
a great consideration in selecting the
right fragrance for a new product
Formulating Fragrance into
the Product
 Dishwashing liquids will have fragrances made up of
mainly middle and top notes so there is no residual
fragrance on dishes after washing
 Laundry liquids will have lots of base and middle
notes so they can survive a hot water wash
 Gel air fresheners will have lots of base and middle
notes to survive a hot production process. If the
manufacture of a gel doesn’t use heat then more top
notes can be incorporated into the fragrance
Efficacy Testing
 New products will require some efficacy
testing for presentation to the
marketing arm of the organisation and
in many cases (Thai & Vietnam FDA’s)
product registration. If the product is a
cosmetic or insecticide, efficacy
information will have to be submitted at
registration
Efficacy Testing
 Depending on the product, different
tests are required.
 Sometimes we have to invent our own
methods for unusual products like ant
and cockroach repellents and then
convince the FDA to accept the results.
Efficacy Testing
 Standard tests for a shampoo would be
as follows:
 Laboratory
 Salon
 Consumer
Laboratory Evaluation
 Objective characteristics
 Anionic wash activity –methylene blue test
 Catatonic substance determination
 Solids content – Dry residue or refractometer
 Viscosity –Brookfield
 Performance
- Ross Miles foam height test
- Draves-Shapiro tape wetting test
Salon Evaluation
 Assessment on half head test against a
benchmark
 Various samples tested at one time
 Evaluation given on
rinse/combing/creaminess/fragrance
Consumer Testing
 Tested against a consumer profile
 Undertaken through a workshop
 In-House
Product Registration
 Product Registration has become much
more strict around the world in the last
5 years
 Next year all new products, including
household cleaning require registration
 Most countries have FDA type
organisations
Product Registration
 Generally the following registrations are
required:
 Cosmetics – registration through the
Dept. Health
 Insecticides – registration through the
Department of Agriculture
Cosmetics and Therapeutic
Goods
 What is required dependent on the
class of goods
 Main criteria determining the class of
goods is the claims made on the
product
 Another criteria is the substances the
product contains
Cosmetics and Therapeutic
Goods
 Basic Criteria Examined
 Ingredients
 Efficacy according to claims made
 Toxicity
 GMP
Insecticides
 Through Dept Agriculture
 Fall under definition of an insecticide
a) specifically declared to be an
agricultural chemical product
b) Contents of Formulation
c) Claims made about the product
Packaging Design
 As during the MPP phase the same considerations
apply, but these must be tested for stability using
various techniques
 Formulation is compatible with proposed packaging

Considerations here for the formulator are:


a) Is the nature of the product compatible with the
proposed packaging?
b) What product bulk densities will be required?
c) Can the product be filled efficiently during
production?
d) Will the proposed packaging effect product stability?
Packaging Design
 PVC materials are extremely susceptible to
high alkalis and solvents
 Some formulations that release gases over
time (bleach) must have some an outlet to
equalise pressure with the atmosphere
 Synerethesis can occur in gels and create
moisture leakage
 Clear packaging will change some overtime
dyes by allowing constant UV light to effect
product
Manufacturing System Design
 Major Issues
 Is the proposed manufacturing process
compatible with the formulation?
 Will a new process need to be engineered
and developed?
 What modifications to the product formula
will have to be made, if any?
 What type of filling equipment is needed?
Is the proposed manufacturing process
compatible with the formulation?
Powders
 Issues
 Bulk densities
 Moisture in powder products
Powders – Dry Blending
Powders – Dry Blending
 Advantages – Low investment
 Disadvantages – large particle size
high moisture content
Limits to amount of
liquids that can be
incorporated
Powders – Spray Drying
Powders – Spray Drying
 Advantages – uniform product
Low moisture content
Soft fluffy feel

 Disadvantage – massive investment


Liquids
 Various forms of mixers are used for
manufacturing different products,
depending on characteristics
Gate Mixer
Gate Mixer
 Viscous Liquids
 Do not want aeration
 Some Saponifications
Centrifugal Mixer
Centrifugal Mixer
 Low viscous liquids where aeration is
not an issue
 Products with high percentage of
solvents
Filling Equipment
Packaging
Good Manufacturing Practice
 GMP is a set of guidelines for the
manufacture of pharmaceutical and
cosmetic products
 Manufactured and imported products
have to comply with set standards and
procedures
Marketing Review
 This is the time when target markets
are focused upon and minor
modifications to packaging or
formulation may be made because of
panel testing
Test Market
Test Marketing in a domestic market is
very rare today:
- concentration of retailers
- companies tend to have regional or
global product strategies
Test markets tend to be in a region or
number of countries before a regional
or global launch is made
Refining Product Before Major
Launch
 When products have been tested in a single country
or region, there will be final refining of the product
before major launch
 These refinements have more to do with different
markets, than technical issues
 Fragrances may be modified to suit a particular
market
 Packaging changes may be modified
 Branding may be changed
 Some raw materials may be changed due to local
regulations or availability or cost factor
Attributes of a Good Cosmetic
Chemist
 Has initiative to conceptualise new product systems
 Is well read and conversed with raw materials
 Understands strengths and limitations of various raw materials
 Continually surveys market, environment and industry for new
developments
 Willing to undertake laborious lab work
 Able to take a market orientation when developing products
 Able to communicate effectively to others within the
organisation
 Is well versed in manufacturing processes
 Understands product costing and able to formulate accordingly
Why do Companies Need New
Product development?
 Regulations change forcing product
changes
 Disallowing of phenols required change
to QACs
 Banning of paraquats in herbicides
Why do Companies Need New
Product development?
 Lifestyles are continually changing
 Rural/urban drift decreased need for
mosquito coils
 Less time at home and health developed
consumer interest in Shower gels
 Growth in leisure activities and awareness of
skin cancer developed demand for sunscreens
Why do Companies Need New
Product development?
 To improve their market positioning and
market-share
 Don’t necessarily want new products,
want enhancements to claim benefits
over competitors
An Enhancement?
Another Enhancement?
New technologies Require new
Product Development
 New Technologies which lead to new
chemicals can force companies to
develop new formultions
 Materials are less toxic
 Materials are cheaper
 Materials perform better
Changing Fragrance
Technology
 Illustration of ‘Lily of the Valley’ Fragrance 1800’s to
present day
19th Century Present
Tuberose Extract 21oz Hydroxycitronellal 35.0
Jasmin Extract 3oz Rhodinol 18.0
Rose Extract 2oz Linalool 14.5
Orange Flower Extract 2oz Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 12.0
Spirit of Rose 2oz Geraniol 4.5
Essence of Vanilla 2oz Di Methyl Benzyl Cabinal
Ylang Ylang No. 1 ½ oz Acetate 4.5
Bergamot ½ oz Amyl Cinnamic aldehyde 3.6
Boi de Rose Extract ¼ oz Lillial (Giv) 2.0
Iso Eugenol 0.5
Phenylacetaldhyde DA 0.2
Benyzl Benzoate 4.2
Indole (10% sol.) 1.0
Product Evolution
 There a predictable product evolution in
every category, governed by changing
technology, consumer tastes and
lifestyles and supermarkets increasing
cost of shelf space
 A lot of new products come out of this
evolution and travel from one
international market to another
The Laundry Cleaning Family
Tree
1800’s blau R&C

1850’s Soap Bars P&G

1920’s Soap Powder Persil – P&G

1950’s Detergent Powder Tide – P&G

1970’s Low Built Laundry Liquids AURA – R&C

1980’s Fully Built Laundry Liquid Dynamo – Colgate

Mid 80’s Concentrated Laundry Powder Dynamo –Colgate

2002 Ultra Liquids

Failed Evolution – Laundry Detergent Tablets


UKM’s New Cosmetic
Chemists?

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