Inspection Systems – Four-Point System – Ten-Point System Inspection Condition Sampling Acceptance Level Fabric Inspection (I) When, why, where
Producer likes to know the quality of his
products (says quality for 500,000 yds fabric) Buyer wants to assure the product quality he ordered. 10% check will give buyer some ideas of his product quality 25% check maybe necessary for new supplier 3% check maybe enough for a proven record supplier Fabric Inspection (II)
Fabric inspection must be selected randomly
The fabric sample must be selected from different place, different lot and different time Inspector must use a packing list and select different bales on different place The samples should be selected from early, middle and late production. Inspection Standards
Ten Point System
– Oldest and most used in woven finished fabric Four point System – Widely adopted and used in knitted fabric The Graniteville’78 System – major and minor types, used in garment pieces Ten Point System Ten Point System
The earliest inspection system and is designed
to identify defects and to assign each defect a value based on severity of defect Published in 1955 by Textile Distributors Institute and National Federation of Textiles Ten Points System (Woven) Warp Defects – 10-36 inches 10 points – 5-10 inches 5 points – 1-5 inches 3 points – up to 1 inch 1 point Weft Defects – Full width 10 points – 5 inches to half width 5 points – 1-5 inches 3 points – up to 1 inch 1 point Ten Point System Standards for examination of finished goods (woven mainly) Penalties to be assigned for imperfection of warp and weft defects Grading is designed to apply to every imperfection according to size, regardless of type. For print cloth, any piece of grey which contains less than 50% more penalty points than yardage may be passed for printed fabric. Ten Point System (Note)
No one yard should be penalized more than 10
points Any warp or weft defect occurring repeatedly throughout the entire piece makes it “second” A combination of both warp and weft defects when occurring in one yarn should not be penalized more than 10 points Ten Point System Grading “First Quality” – A piece is graded as “first” if the total quality points do not exceed the total yardage of the piece. Eg. 100 yard piece got the penalized of 70. “Second Quality” – A piece is graded a “second” if the total penalty points exceed the total yardage of the piece. Four Point System Four Point System
It was published in 1959 by the National
Association of Shirt Pajama Sportswear Manufacturers It got the biggest support for American Society for Quality Control. It was endorsed by federal government for military inspection and American Apparel Manufacturers Association Four Point Systems Knitted Fabric Grading of fabric quality according to penalty points Penalty points are based on the length of defects measured in inch. Fabric inspection is only on one side of fabric and is based on fabric width of 64-66 inches (knitted fabric) Four penalty points per linear yarn up to 64/66 inches in width The quality shall be expressed in the number of penalty points per 100 yarn length Commerical Knitted Fabric Grading System, Four Point System Four Point System is adopted byAmerican Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for piece goods knitted fabric. Fabric defects is penaltized by maximum of 4 points. ength of the defect in the fabric in either length or width Points allotted Up to 3 inches 1 Over 3 inches to 6 inches 2 Over 6 inches to 9 inches 3 Over 9 inches 4 Commerical Acceptance Levels for defect points : abric Type (Ciruclar, V-Bed or First Quality Points Per ully Fashion, Warp Knit) 100 Linear Yards Tricot not over 40 Basic Circular not over 50 Faced Finish Circular not over 60 Novelty Circular not over 70 to 85 Basic Raschel not over 40 Raised Surface Raschel not over 50 Noverty Raschel not over 60 Silver not over 50 Four Point Systems (others) All products sold must be have the following properties: Grey Goods: – construction – blend – width – weight Finished Goods Buyer must inform seller on any particular condition of goods Calculation
Points per 100 square yards =
– (Total points scored X 3600)/ (Cloth width in inches X yards examined) e.g inspected 100 yards fabric and got 100 penalty points,fabric width is 72 inches, the points per 100 square yards is : – (100X3600)/(72X100) =50 The Graniteville ‘78 System Graniteville’78 System
It was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric
grading. The system divided defects into major and minor types The major defect was one which was very obvious and lead the goods to second quality The minor defect was one may or may not have caused garment to second, depending on its location in the end use item 78 System Point
Penalty Point Assignment of Graniteville’78
Defect Length Penalty Points – 9” 1 – 9”-18” 2 – 18”-27” 3 – 27”-36” 4 78 Points- Notes The principle was established in garment cutting piece, which the short length defects (less than 9”) will normally be removed. The system tries to balance the importance of longer defects (over 9”) and put less weight on 1- 10” defects such as slubs The system also suggests the viewing distance of 9 foot instead of normal 3-foot viewing distance. The system tend to eliminate very small defects from the total penalty score.