CHINA TEXTILE INSTITUTE

"Functional textiles -- key to a new era for Asian textile industries"

Dr. Chi-Chung Bai
Vice President China Textile Institute Taiwan, R.O.C. December, 2002
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&RQWHQW
1. Trend of global textile industry development 2. Trend of functional textile technology and market development 3. Applying function to functional textiles 4. Trend of functional textile technology development shown in patent map 5. Challenges to functional textiles 6. Conclusion
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Trend of global textile industry development

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Leading exporters of textiles, 2000

(Billion dollars and percentage)
Value 2000 China Hong Kong, China Korea, Rep. of Italy Taipei, Chinese Germany United States Japan France Belgium India Pakistan United Kingdom Turkey Indonesia Above 15 16.14 13.44 12.78 11.96 11.69 11.02 10.96 7.02 6.76 6.40 5.09 4.53 4.21 3.67 3.51 116.90 Share in world exports/imports 1980 1990 2000 4.6 4.0 7.6 3.2 11.4 6.8 9.3 6.2 2.1 1.6 5.7 0.6 0.1 71.0 6.9 5.8 9.1 5.9 13.5 4.8 5.6 5.8 2.1 2.6 4.2 1.4 1.2 76.7 10.2 8.1 7.6 7.4 7.0 7.0 4.5 4.3 4.1 3.4 2.9 2.7 2.3 2.2 74.5 Annual percentage change 1990-00 1998 1999 2000 8 5 8 2 7 -2 8 2 1 10 5 0 10 11 -7 -11 -15 1 -13 3 0 -12 5 -13 -7 -3 6 5 2 -6 3 -8 -2 -10 3 10 -7 12 -1 -17 -2 28 24 10 10 0 7 -10 15 6 -4 -4 6 -6 6 16 -

Source:www.wto.org

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Leading exporters of clothing, 2000

(Billion dollars and percentage)
Value 2000 China Hong Kong, China Italy Mexico United States Germany Turkey France India Korea, Rep. of Indonesia United Kingdom Thailand Belgium Taipei, Chinese Above 15 36.07 24.22 13.22 8.70 8.65 6.84 6.53 5.43 5.15 5.03 4.73 4.11 3.95 3.94 2.97 125.24 Share in world exports/imports 1980 1990 2000 4.0 11.3 0.0 3.1 7.1 0.3 5.7 1.5 7.3 0.2 4.6 0.7 6.0 65.6 9.0 11.0 0.5 2.4 7.3 3.1 4.3 2.3 7.3 1.5 2.8 2.6 3.7 68.2 18.1 6.6 4.4 4.3 3.4 3.3 2.7 2.8 2.5 2.4 2.1 2.0 2.0 1.5 63.1 Annual percentage change 1990-00 1998 1999 2000 14 5 1 31 13 -1 7 2 8 -4 11 3 3 -3 -6 -4 -1 17 1 7 5 8 10 11 -9 -7 -4 -6 0 1 -7 18 -6 -3 -8 -1 8 5 47 -9 -2 -10 20 8 -3 12 5 -12 0 -5 3 23 -8 14 -4 4 -

Source:www.wto.org
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Leading importers of textiles, 2000

(Billion dollars and percentage)
are in orld e ports/i ports nited tates ong ong, ina ina er an nited ingdo rance Ital e ico Japan anada Belgi pain orea, ep. of Net erlands oland o e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -

al e

nn al percentage c ange

Source:www.wto.org
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Leading importers of clothing, 2000

(Billion dollars and percentage)
al e nited tates Japan er an ong ong, ina nited ingdo rance Ital Net erlands Belgi pain anada e ico itzerland ssian ed. stria o e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . are in orld e ports/i ports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . nn al percentage c ange

Source:www.wto.org

CHINA TEXTILE INSTITUTE

L a b o u r c o s t c o m p a ris o n s in th e te x tile in d u s tr y 2000

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. .

. .

S$/

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our

So

r c e : W o r ld

a r k e t s fo r S p

n Ya r n s :

o r e c a s ts to

W e r n e r d a ta

! & & & & " % " % % $ # # & " % $

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" % " % % ! & %

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# ! "

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A u s tra lia Ir e la n d S p a in Is ra e l N e w Z e a la n d re e c e Ta iw a n a lta ong ong A r g e n tin a o re a Sout o r tu g a l ru g u a B ra z il e n e z u e la Tu r k e ungar o la n d e ic o zec e p u b lic o lo b ia o ro c c o S o u t A fr ic a e ru Tu n is ia S lo a k ia E s to n ia a u r itiu s T a ila n d a la s ia ilip p in e s N ig e r ia Eg pt in a In d ia S ri Lanka B a n g la d e s ie tn a a k is ta n adagascar In d o n e s ia

Source:2001 IAF Seminar

$ $

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# #

$ %

% # &! & & % !&

# !

      

Japan D en a rk S w itz e r la n d B e lg i N e t e r la n d s er an N o rw a Sweden s tr ia Ita l anada SA F in la n d F ra n c e

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Consumption of t til s nd lot ing by selected region, 198 5

mn tons 12

10 7.9

9.6

1980
8.7

1995

2005
8.3 7.1

6.8 6 4.8 4 3.9 5.5

3.4 2.8 2.0

0 USA
Not : s lf-suffici cy = mill fibr consum tion s r c nt of final consum tion Sourc : T xtil Outlook Int r national
) ) ' ' ' ' ' '10 ' ') 0 0 (' ' '

China

European Union

Japan

Source:2001 IAF Seminar

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Self-sufficiency in final textile consumption 0 and 200

(%) 250

200

150

100

50

0 USA EU15
Note: self-sufficienc ill fibre consumption as a percentage of final consumption Source: Te tile utlook International
432 6 5

Japan Former USSR East and SE Asia Eastern Europe China South Asia

Source:2001 IAF Seminar

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Gap between apacit and Demand will be . million tons in

Supply/Demand of Synthetic Fibers
million tons 40

35

Over Capacity .2 mill.

Capacity 39. Production 33.3

Idle Capacity 6.5 mill. Over Supply 1.7mill. 1.7mill.

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Consumption 31.6
11

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Source:World Synthetic Fiber Seminar,2002

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Present status of global textile market

Demand and supply imbalanced Asia is the major textile products and garment exporting area Multidirectional development of textile market Heavy competing in textile product market
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Trend of global textile industry

Great impact is expected in global textile trade as China enters WTO  Lower tariff, non tariff barrier such as importing limitation could be lifted Free trade of textile product in 2005  Quota system will be lifted gradually, and finally reaches total free trade  The non price related competing such as quality, design and marketing is becoming more and more fierce in global textile Speed up the reorganization of international collaboration structure in textile industry  The high production cost in developed countries and the generalization of technology force them to move toward high-tech and highhigh value added product  The developing countries take advantage of low production cost, and through collaboration in process to expand their exports. It estimated that developing countries will account 80% of world textile production after 2000 From fashion oriented R/D to function oriented R/D ; From apparel oriented R&D to non13 apparel oriented R&D

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Development focus of textile industry in developed countries

country USA Focusing items use bio-tech to develop new fiber new fiber processing technology high speed stable High functional fiber material R/D and innovation Singosei material-Hybridized Hybridized Composite functional fiber material

Japan

technical textile

Germany

Emphasizing on speed, safety, quality and network hightech textile machinery/integrating functional textile High-tech textile design and manufacturing technology Develop fashion design for small and proper amount production focusing on design and brand image;delicate processing technology High-tech textile machinery

France Italy

Source:CTI R&D program

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T ree new appeals for te tile product

Comfort
Lig t weig t

Basic function
Deodor T ermo insulation

Medical application Wicking

sensiti it

Soil resistance ompo site T ermal function resistance resistant Anti static

Environmental friendly

Elasticit Anti bacteria

Health

Safety

Matri structure of Japanese comfort material15

R&D trend of textile industry in developed countries

The developing focus of each European country is as follows:Italy and France are focusing on innovation; emphasizing high quality and superior brand image; Germany and Switzerland are focusing on high-tech technical textile and textile equipments. Besides, every country pays attention on environmental friendly textile, clothing science i.e. establishes new evaluation system or new standard etc, and emphasizes on high value added product or personalized product. The recent research focus of textile technology lay in the application of nano technology in textile, the application of biotech in textile, high-tech integrated smart wear (wearable motherboard), application of PCM, smart textiles, etc 16

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Developing focus of EU

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Asia Role
TIFE 2002, Textile International Forum and Exhibition 2002, November 4~6,2002

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11/04/2002 ~ 11/06/2002 TIFE Agenda

KeyNote Speech Special Topic Speech Management of Japanese Textile Industry,Mr. Hiroyuki Iimuro Theme - Strategy De elopment and In estment Strateg of ietnam Te tile Industr in eriod,Ministr of industr of ietnam,Senior fficial of lanning and In estment Department,Ms. Nguyen T u Ngan ietnam The Strategy of Korean Textile Industry -- The Vision and Strategy of Textile and Fashion Industry, Advisor to Mayor of Daegu city for textile policy,Mr. Hyun-Woo Moon Korea Development Strategy Of Mainland China Textile & Apparel Industry,Hong Kong Polytechnic University,Dr. Zhi-Ming Zhang Hong Kong Investment Strategy of Thailand Textile Industry,Secretary-general e of Thailand Board of Investment,Mr. Somphong Wanapha Thailand Investment Strategy Of Malaysian Textile Industry,Malaysia Industrial Development Authority,Director of Textile and Mineral Industry Division,Mr. P.Kalaiyappan Malaysia Development Strategy of Indonesian Textile Industry to Face Global Market,Ministry of Industry and Trade (MOIT),Director for Directorate of Textile Industry,Ms. Luky Hartini Indonesia 18

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11/04/2002 ~ 11/06/2002 TIFE Agenda

Theme - Technology De elopment and lan of Nano Tec nology of National roject in Japan,Tokyo Institute of Technology,Professor Takeshi Kikutani Japan Controllable Technology of Size, Structure, and Shape of Nano-Materials Technical Institute of Physics and Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences,Professor Fang-Qiong Tang China Technology and Latest Marketing of Functional Fibers,Hiroshima University,Professor Michikage Matsui Japan The Technology and Marketing of Technical Textiles in Korea,Yeungnam University ,Professor Seung Jin Kim Korea Marketing Trend and R&D of Eco-Textile Technology,Ohtsuma Womens University,Professor Kanji Kajiwara,Technical Adviser of Teijin Fibers Ltd.,Nobuya Okumura Japan

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11/04/2002 ~ 11/06/2002 TIFE Agenda

Forum Main Topic Create the technology interchanging mechanism to enhance the competing advantage of Asian textiles in the global market. Issue One Establish an electronic data interchanging system to promote regional cooperation as well as to create potential marketing through information sharing. Conclusion of Issue One 1.Invite all TIFE forum speakers to be website consultants. 2.Initially, TIFE Executive Committee will invite all speakers to recommend textile related websites in Asia so that website communication and information sharing could be achieved. 3.To continue the communication of textile technology, TIFE Executive Committee will configure an original prototype of the website (www.tife.org) and focus on constructing an information platform for technologies, markets and products.
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11/04/2002 ~ 11/06/2002 TIFE Agenda

Issue Two Through close cooperation of textile-related organization to enhance the technology exchanging of nanotextiles, advocate green design and clean production, and propel certification system for technical and green textiles. Conclusion of Issue Two 1.Strengthen the establishment and communication of the inspection technologies and standards for the technical and green textiles 2.TIFE seminars and forums shall focus on nanotextiles, green textiles, and the certification of functional and technical textiles in the coming 3-5 years 3.Urge Asian governments and their related affiliation to pay attention to the R&D and legislation of nanotechnolgy, green design and clean production. 4.Promote the interaction between the TIFE and relevant affiliation in Asia, so that Asian textile R&D alliances could be established based on current basis. It is hoped that this action could provide R&D innovation and new products to enhance the competitive ability of Asia textile products in international market.
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Trend of Functional textile technology and market development

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unctional characteristics Thermal  insulation com ort  Thermal regulation umidity s eating management

Present status of functional textile market

ortical technology company oom or unction improve technology

arket scale

 technology eat generating

 utlast  itui M asonic Lenzing M odal  Courtaulds Vilo t 

medium 

port and leisure  market scale reaches 520billion dollar among them water vapor permeation,water proo , water repellence textile account or about 140 billion dollar; water vapor absorptive and sweat expellant textiles accounts240 billion dollar; elastic textile account or about 88billion dollar Product value o  medical protection textile is about 1000 billion us dollar

ater vapor
permeation, ater proo , ind proo

 Textile structure design  u ont-Tactel quator ydrophobia o layer next to skin M  itui Watermagic Toray Fieldsensor  e coating tech o  Toray H 2 ut abrics Akzo obel   embrane technology M  icroban M M  itui Live resh Du   ont-Lycra  peedo Lycra   T  Nike Adidas Gore-Tex 

 lo

lo 

Anti protection sa ety  bacteria  Anti- V  Function   M uscle control enhancement  Wind proo slip

 high
high 

 imming suit  material hoe

light eight com  ort supportive

resistance  reduction Drag M  uscle control Chlorine resistance   Air soles water vapor permeation

 medium
low 

Source:CTI R&D program

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Applying function to functional textiles

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Functional classification of functional textiles

Comfort function s nsitivity clean appearance health Anti Monofilamen luster Heat retain bacteria & t strength stink acteria xtension shininess Cool restraint imension transparenc Sweat Stink Stability y expelling expelling asic function ensity Melting point absorption yeability Anti rugs Heatproof ight proof eather proof insulation ight weight Anti fungi softness har ness colorfulness thick colorfulness fashion Anti peeling Anti shrinkage ug proof Safety function ater proof ater repellant Stain proof retar ant Melting proof New function High strength High resilience rubber resilience Ultra anti heat Heat proof ater solution iology issolution

Anti allergy Anti erosion UV cut MS Heat radiation shield

source: New sensory and new functional fiber,T

1996

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Functional application of functional textiles for garment materials

Feature Function Water absorption, water retaining, wetness absorption, water water repellent, anti stain Fire etardant, no combustion, anti fire, anti eat eat retain, eat cut, eat generation, eat out, anti melting, eat ad erence Electricity Anti, in erent or inducti e Electricity Mec anics ig strengt , ig resilience, rubber resilience biology Anti bacteria, anti stink, stink reduction, aroma, anti bug emistry Swell reduction, solution, dissolution, automatic s rinkage, ot ers potential s rinkage, separation, fiber opening durableness Durable to lig t, weat er, eat, drugs, erosion ltra ig ltra ig strengt , ltra ig resilience, ltra ig performance absorption, ltra ig durableness to eat, fire Lig t transmission, collection and penetration, re erse osmosis, ion e c ange, ad erence , gas e c ange, anti Special electricity magnetism, reflection, absorption, self function ad erence

General apparel

Special apparel

Source: TI

D program,1996

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Technology integration of functional textiles

Polymer technology Synthetic fiber

Spinning Weaving

Post processing

Quality feeling:characteristic function

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New functional textiles

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Applying function to functional textiles

1. Creation of comfort and sensitivity 2. Beautiful color and luster 3. Requirement on light weight and thermal insulation 4. Clean garment and comfortable environment 5. Protection of skin 6. Safety and protection 7. Sport and leisure 8. Environmental friendly
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Trend of functional textile technology development shown in patent map

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Changes of number of patent filed in Japanese functional textile technology

20 years 33657 patent

Photo catalyst de-odor

Hollow & full of holes

Ultra fine & water repellant

Far IR thermo insulation

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: 1

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Number of patent filed in Japanese functional textile processing technology

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Source: Japan patent bureau 1

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Challenges to functional textiles

1. Multifunction composite material . se of nano tec nology/material . Testing and certification of functional te tiles . International collaboration and alliance
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Challenge one Multifunction composite material

multifunction textile product is future trend and the key point for Asia textile to enhance competing ability segmenting market based on technology level Dream fiber in functional fiber-multifunction integration
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Application of multifunction composite material

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source: Japan patent bureau

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Challenge two use of nano technology/material

Nano scale fiber intelligent nano fiber
Source:ITRI,CTI R&D program

nano technology and market

nano
particle modification tech

high strength PET, nylon fiber blending/distribution/stability high performance absorptive control tech of nano particle and filter high performance resin nano carbon tube,biology intimation Nano coating textiles EM wave absorption Product value of ultra durl nano-fiber/textile will hydrophobic/hydrophilic worth 150 billion in interface coming 2-3 years nano coating products tech of nano scale organic synthesis control tech of size distribution/size of nano particle stability and compounding tech of nano particle Source:CTI R&D program

tech

of synthesis &

modification of nano polymer

Electrospinning

Nano composite fiber anti bacteria/stink/dust anti melting,flame retardant, few smoke UV or radiant wave absorption Far-IR health seeking inductive, electricity restrain/induction tech of nano powder size/shape/distribution control compatibilization tech of organic & 35 inorganic materials compounding tech of

High performance dyestuff/pigment high fastness/color yield high brilliant dyestuff light penetration stability

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Nano water repellence Water proof te tiles

Through NANO-CARE technology, nanowhiskers are attached to individual cotton fibers. The whiskers cause liquids to roll off the fabric. (Nano-Te )
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Clay

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Nano-Finis

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Challenge three Testing and certification of functional textiles

Testing and certification is the key point to success necessary condition for continuous operation inform consumer the function of functional textiles establish a trustable platform between buyer and vendor It is urgent to build large scale of state-of-art testing and certification set up of equipment and technology are all required
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Textile certificated label has became the required condition for entering international market such as USA and EU market

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Challenge four International collaboration and R&D alliance

Speed up international collaboration in textile industry In responding to the formation of regional economic, textile industry must be globalize to breakthrough the protection of economic segment Professional collaboration Each Asian country should collaborate based on its strong points in supply chain to gain relative superiority in global competing environment Establish Asia textile R&D alliance Based on APEC model to promote interaction between each affiliation or expert in Asian country, to bring R&D innovation and develop new product to enhance competing ability of Asia textile s
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Future Aspect
1.Function Fas ion create ig added alue . D inno ation brand ecreate Asia te tile c annel future prosperity

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Conclusion
1. Asia has become world textile manufacturing and supplying center 2. Collaboration between Asia countries based on supply chain role and exploring international market is the most urgent mission 3. To establish international R&D alliance, and reach integration and collaboration is the win-win strategy 4. Functional textiles, whether it is for garment, house decoration or technical textiles will be future profit point in textiles 5. Based on APEC model to promote interaction between each affiliation or expert in Asian country, to bring R&D innovation and develop new product to enhance competing ability of Asia textiles 43

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THANK YOU!

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