Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
Agenda
Contexte gnral Situation dans lindustrie horlogre et bijouterie Comment les marques sy prennent ? Prsentation du RJC Pistes de rflexion
Inspiring. Driving change.
21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 3
Contexte
Contexte
Contexte
Initiatives et NGO
Environnement et faune
- Disparition des ressources naturelles rares (diamants, or, ) - Protection des espces animalires. - Contamination des eaux (mercure) et la biodiversit. (mines) - Les processus chimiques de traitement des matires premires. (galvanisation) - Packaging, displays, documentation === > dchets - Transport - Magasins : ameublement / clairage / etc
04/2012
COM MENT
?
20
21/04/2012
www.wholebeauty.ch
21
21/04/2012
www.wholebeauty.ch
22
21/04/2012
www.wholebeauty.ch
23
21/04/2012
www.wholebeauty.ch
24
21/04/2012
www.wholebeauty.ch
25
Lmancipation la femme
21/04/2012
www.wholebeauty.ch
26
et Technologies
21/04/2012
www.wholebeauty.ch
27
Mega trends
1. Lexplosion de la dmographie mondiale et les modifications de dmographies socitales 2. Les changements climatiques et environnementaux 3. La crise nergtique venir 4. La globalisation croissante 5. Lacclration du dveloppement exponentiel de la technologie 6. Le modle Prvention des maladies - Extension de la longvit en mdecine
Inspiring. Driving change.
21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 28
Lexcellence responsable
Planification, organisation, gestion une compagnie de luxe rentable dans le respect de lenvironnement et la communaut, et ainsi contribuer la rduction des missions de CO2 et au bien-tre de la population.
Notre vision
Un monde ou chaque acheteur dun produit ou un service de luxe vivra une exprience dachat la fois extraordinaire et responsable.
Photo : AIM Leader
JA
Mais...
Audemars Piguet
Quen est-il ?
- Campagne Dirty Gold ? - Conflict free diamonds ? - Principes dapprovisionnement des pierres prcieuses ? - Dialogue avec les parties prenantes ? - Audit de la chaine dapprovisionnement ? - CITES (bracelets ) ? - Responsible Jewelry Council ? - Formation interne ? - Communication ?
Etape 2
Etape 3
Etape 3
Etape 3 - 4
Etape 3 - 4
Comment comparer?
Critres Cartier
Tiffany&Co
Style durable Oui Kimberley + Laurelton Diamonds Specific sourcing policy. Pas dor sal. Position sur les pierres prcieuses birmanes Membre fondateur de RJC, Oxfam, Earthworks, ARM, IRMA Seaweb (marine protection). CITES. Inspiring. Driving change. CDP 44
Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009
Stratgie CSR
Objectifs Code de Conduite
Mtaux prcieux
Probablement
Efforts collaboratifs
Autres
21/04/2012
CITES.
www.wholebeauty.ch
Cartier
Tiffany&Co
Multidimensionnel Social Comptabilit programme Inconnu Site internet / Rapport Non Energie, emballage, biodiversit, eau, dchets
Droits de lhomme, Formation continue, travail des enfants, droits de lhomme, sant et scurit, chane philantropie, achats Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009 dapprovisionnement, corruption et blanchiment dargent Inspiring. Driving change.
www.wholebeauty.ch 45
21/04/2012
Etape 3 - 4
Les motivations daprs Rosy Blue
Efficience
Respecter lvolution des exigences des clients et des partenaires Innover pour changer le march Intgrit du produit
Source : Rosy Blue
Etape 5
RJC Process
RJC Principles
RJC Scope
Benfices
Question
Recommendation
Dcider et mobiliser
Oui ou Non (Si Non, quels sont les risques ?) Si, Oui alors
Quelle stratgie ? (C ou S) Quelles ressources ?
Champion interne project manager Budget
Sengager pratiquement
Inspiring. Driving change.
21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 56
Parties prenantes
Banks Insurers
Parent Co Shareholders Employees Communities Investors & Risk Assessors NGOs Thought leaders Rule-Marker & Watchdogs Corporate campaigner Politicians & Regulator Media
Adler
Clients & Community Business Partners & Competitors
Industry Assoc.
Suppliers Competitor Distributors
Stratgies
Conformit
(suiveur)
- Adhrer au RJC - Self-assessment - Certification RJC + autres lois, rgles, etc
We will do as much as we have to
Managriale/Strat. (leadership
Approche stratgique - Vision 2022 - Mission/Obj/Strat gies - Soutenir une initiative (ethical gold Its the business sourcing)
Competitive edge
Backcasting
How can we escort you to leverage the benefits of sustainability in your organisation ?
Christopher H. Cordey
Strategic Catalyst Officer
WholeBeauty SA
Ch. de Terre Bonne 1 1262 Eysins / Switzerland
www.wholebeauty.ch
contact@wholebeauty.ch Fix : + 41 22 550 29 62 Mobile : + 41 79 457 37 61
Christopher H. Cordey
Agent du changement
04/2012
HEC Lausanne
Situation actuelle: Communication de la marque
72% des europens sont favorables au marketing de lux sur Internet (Comit Colert 2009) Analyse personnelle des 75 membres des sites internet du Comit Colbert Design et communications excellents La durabilit est un lment central 50 ne mentionnent pas le dveloppement durable 10 y font rfrence implicitement 15 y font rfrence explicitement
La ralit actuelle ?
Ethics and Sustainability in Business - Prof. Christopher H. Cordey 68
Quest ce que l
Excellence Responsable ?
Inspiring. Driving change.
21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 70
Responsable ?
Profit
People
Planet
04/2012
Equilibre
People
Planet
Profit
04/2012
Drivers
Obligations societales & morales Rchauffement climatique Cots et profit
Relation communaut
Rgulations
04/2012
http://hbr.org/2010/09/how-i-did-it-timberlands-ceo-on-standing-up-to-65000-angry-activists/ar/1
En conclusions
La consommation tique est encore une motivation passive dune minorit dacheteurs de luxe; mais grandissante et puissante! Elles ont les moyens ($) de sengager. Elles ne sont pas seules ! Ne jamais sous-estimer le pouvoir des millennials et du web 2.0. Lopportunit existe pour les marques de luxe de profiter de lexcellence durable, mais elles doivent relever le dfi Ici et Maintenant !
21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch
Et maintenant ?
Inspiring. Driving change.
21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 82
Conclusion
Quel est mon rle et ma mission dans la socit (sens gnral)/sur cette plante ? Que puis-je faire pour contribuer faire de cette plante un monde meilleur, plus inclusif, thique, transparent et respectueux ? Comment vais-je tre un acteur du changement et ainsi influencer les dcisionnaires de mon entreprise ?
Inspiring. Driving change.
21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 83
Merci
Christopher H. Cordey
WholeBeauty SA Ch. de Terre Bonne 1 1262 Eysins / Switzerland
www.wholebeauty.c h
contact@wholebeauty.ch
Fix : + 41 22 550 29 62 Mobile : + 41 79 457 37 61 Inspiring. Driving change.
21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 84
Nos activits
INSPIRE
Understand what sustainability is all about Understand the brand & sectors sustainability issues Enlighten the top and mid management Outline the steps toward sustainability
FORMALIZE
15 steps : Sustainable Development Strategy Goals, Vision, Value statement, mission Benchmarking, budget Stakeholders definition, strategy and engagement Key indicators performance, cost/benefit analysis, Implementation, feedback, optimisation, exit strategy
MOBILIZE
Training, Education and incentive program Driving Change Workshop Mobilization Workshop
VITALIZE
Review and optimize existing sustainability and CSR initiatives Leverage new opportunities Inspire staff and external stakeholders Encourage public commitment
MAS-Luxury Management
Chopard
September 4, 2009
Sustainability journey
On starting DeBeers
On reporting - DeBeers
How to proceed ?
(1) Build awareness (4) Engage stakeholders (6) Focus efforts (5) Drive change, incrementally. (2) Win the top management
Our solutions
INSPIRE
Understand what sustainability is all about Understand the brand & sectors sustainability issues Inspire, convice and get the top management committed Outline the steps toward sustainability
FORMALIZE
15 Steps : Sustainable Development Strategy
Goals, purpose, value statement, mission Benchmarking, budget Stakeholders definition, strategy and engagement Key indicators performance, cost/benefit analysis, Implementation, feedback, optimisation, exit strategy
VITALIZE
Review and optimize existing sustainability and CSR initiatives Leverage new opportunities Drive change Inspire staff and external stakeholders Encourage public commitment
Conclusion
Sustainable development is
An art, not a science. A journey, not a quick fix (long term view) An investment, not a cost. A way to save costs. A must do not a may be Now, strategic and progressive Simply good sense and risk management. Everyones responsibility Driving change. Inspiring.
21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 92
From what you wear to who you are From Design to Disposal
DeBeers Survey, 2009
Conclusion
Dont ask what your country, company or other can do to improve the state of the planet and the morality of the business; decide what you will do at your level to be more responsible, respectful and accountable and do it.
Adapted from JFK Inspiring. Driving change.
21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 95
Social Value
Environmental Value
Financial dimension
Guarantee financing
Stakeholders dimension
SD Vision + Strategy
Optimized social inclusion, responsibility, participation, collaboration
Manage risks
Information Capital
(IT, information)
Human Capital
(Staff, H&S)
Opportunities ?
What if the marketing department became the internal and external change agent (in coordination/cooperation with CSR team) to drive CSR within Swarovski ?
Benchmarking vs other brands >>> Goodcorporation.com Sustainable marketing ? >>> Guidelines + education Leveraging SCS 400 k members ? >>> Program Sustainable Event Management ? >>>> Guidelines Driving change within the organization ? >>> Education Formalizing reporting system ? >>> Tool + KPI Inspiring. Driving change. Communication ? >>>> Sustainability report.
21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 98
Survey results
Organisation
(*)
Structure : CSR coordinator, budget, etc. Norms and principles : ISO (14001 et 9001), UN Global Compact, ILO Convention, SA 8000. Associations : CRJC, ARM, Colipa, Ore. Growing impact of measurement and communication Sustainable marketing : more and more developped : Communication: web, PR, and annual SRE reporting
Not so much involved (enviro) Sustainable event Sustainable packaging Sustainable cleaning Carbon Audit Mobility
Not so much involved (socio) Diversity Staff motivation Philantropy Corporate Governance
(*) Web + one to one interviews, 200 leading luxury and cosmetics brands. 15 % return rate. April 2009.
Obstacles to CSR
Psychological
Incompatibility Ostentatious, superfluous Excess and waste Consumers are not interested This a false belief!
Real
Financial investment It is not a cost! Risks There are some risks to fail Lack of expertise CSR Weak market pressure No intense pressure coming from consumers, legislators, etc
Supply chain complexity Numerous suppliers and Inspiring. Driving lack of transparency change.
100 www.wholebeauty.ch WholeBeauty SA 100
21/04/2012
21/04/2012
What we suggest
Meeting CSR responsible
Content
1
2
3 4 5
What is sustainability ?
Sustainability in the luxury industry ? Case study Future directions
Tiffany & Co
CSR department ? Team ? Budget ? Seemingly, no communication related to
1. 2. Envrionmental issues : carbon audit, etc, Social issues : H&S, diversity, equality, consumer security, counterfeit, animal welfare, corruption, money laundering.
Lack of :
figures. yearly objectives. real reporting. .
2
3 4 5
Recommandations stratgiques
What is Sustainability?
The economic development that meets the needs of the present generation without compromising the ability of future generation to meet their own needs (*)
04/2012
People
Planet
Profit
04/2012
Todays context ?
Profit
People Planet
04/2012
A sustainable company
People
Planet
Profit
04/2012
PLANET
Viable
PROFIT
04/2012
2
3 4 5
Global situation
04/2012
04/2012
Types of response
Responders: Bitten Brands BBs react to a PR disaster by naming a CSR leader.
Gap, Chiquita, Wal-Mart.
Reputation Managers Brands move out to preempt threat. Risk/compliance manager may report to general counsel. May work closely with industry.
Tiffany & Co.
04/2012
Engine 1:
Conflict Diamonds which led to Kimberley Process.
Engine 2:
No Dirty Gold campaign.
- Etc.
04/2012
Stakeholders
04/2012
04/2012
04/2012
04/2012
04/2012
M. Brunner, CSM/WWF Research Project: The Business Case for Sustainability, IMD, p.41
Cercle vertueux
Retour sur investissements Pralabl es
Investissements
Engageme nt
Solutions
Rflexion
Adapt de: G.,Octave & Co, Dveloppement durable, pour une entreprise comptitive et responsable, p153
Organisation Ressources organisationnelles: coordinateur RSE, budget, etc. Normes et principes : ISO (14001 et 9001), UN Global Compact, ILO Convention, SA 8000. Associations en lien avec la RSE: CRJC, lARM, Colipa et Ore. Mesurent limpact et les rsultats de leur stratgie La majorit a recours aux services de consultant ou montre de lintrt Marketing durable: Les Parfums Givenchy Collection Ange et Dmon Clarins analyse du cycle de vie, lorigine et de limpact des matires premires Communication: web, relation publiques et rapports RSE
Manque dimplication environnemental Evnement durable Technique de nettoyage durable Bilan carbone Emballages responsables Mobilit dentreprise
Evolution
Moteurs de changement
Pression des parties prenantes Conjoncture Globalisation Management Social
Nouveaux Besoins
Changer la faon de percevoir le dveloppement durable Comprendre les bnfices (conomiques, environnementaux et sociaux) Prouver la rentabilit de la RSE Crer un modle conomique, un cadre de travail Dfinir un instrument de mesure Amliorer la structure et les processus dans lentreprise. Revoir le processus de production et les activits dapprovisionnement Contrler les fournisseurs et la traabilit des produits Gagner le support du top management Nommer un responsable/coordinateur en charge de la RSE Services dun consultant Etc.
Communicate
Measure progress
Towards Sustainability
Changement incrmental
Dveloppement environnemental
Durable Social
Dveloppement social
Ecologique Nondurable
Adapt de: D. Dunphy & Co, Organizational change for corporate sustainability, p.227
Changement incrmental
Dveloppement environnemental
Durable Social
Dveloppement social
Ecologique Nondurable
Adapt de: D. Dunphy & Co, Organizational change for corporate sustainability, p.227
Consommateurs
Clients potentiels du luxe
Adapt de: A. Renaudin, When the consumer meets the citizen, what stake for the luxury activity ?, p.5
Consommateurs (2)
General consumers 71% souhaiterait que les distributeurs choississent de prsenter uniquement des produits responsable et sont prt payer une prime pour ce service (TNS) LOHAS (Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability) = cible idale Luxury consumers Conscience envieonnemental et soical chez les consommateur de luxe (Ifop) 30-40% des clients du luxe souhaiteraient acheter plus de produits responsables (De Beers) Les consommateurs recherchent de la qualit depuis lextraction des matires premires jusqu la gestion des dchets Les consommateurs dsirent simmerger eux-mmes culturellement, socialement et de manire plus philanthropique (De Beers) Les clients espre une exprience saine lors de haque interraction avec les marques de luxe (Deeper Luxury) Il sagit encore de motivation passive qui aura besoin dtre dveloppe par le marketing des marques de luxe
Clients
Approvisionnement Production
Distribution
Produit
Marketing traditionnel - Rpondre aux attentes traditionnelles des consommateurs - Qualit - Surpasser leurs attentes/dsirs - Offrir du rve
Marketing Mix
Communicati - Atteindre le public cible on - Emotion - Crer un univers de marque - Transmettre du rve
Distribution
Prix
Marketing durable - Intgrer laspect social et environnemental (cycle de vie) - Dveloppement cross-fonctionnel - Durabilit et responsabilit - Ressources et matire premires - Mthode DFE - Emballages responsables - Intgrer des lments rationnels - Eco-communication - Donner une nouvelle dimension au rve - Education des parties prenantes - Attention la promotion dun idal fminin - Contrler la promotion des produits destins des personnes majeures (vins et spiritueux) - Respect des donnes prives lies aux clients - Optimiser les transports - Minimiser les dchets et la pollution - Distribution inverse (rcupration) - Slectionner des distributeurs responsables - Emballages de transport rutilisable - Mthode DFE - Prix = responsabilit et produit durable - Nouveau rapport qualit/prix - Value Based Costing Inspir de : Donald A. Fuller, Sustainable Marketing, p, 89, 111, 113, - Allocation des cots = mthode ABC
114
136
21/04/2012
04/2012
Durabilit
Droits de lhomme
21/04/2012
138
www.wholebeauty.ch
Pyramide
Vision Mission
Code de conduite
Rgles et standards
Activits journalires
04/2012
04/2012
04/2012
Planning, Planning and Planning Time, Time, Time. Good sense, good sense, Good sense. Assessment, measure, optimisation.
Inspiring. Driving change.
There is still time to avoid the worst impacts of climate change, if we take strong action now
04/2012
Weaknesses
Luxe= Non-rationnelle, superflu et sans limite Ingalit (riche-pauvre) dans le monde
04/2012
Threats
Inertie, on fait dj assez Fraude, non respect des rgles en amont (fournisseur)
Increasing stakeholderspressure : -Attaque ONG -Propagation mdiatique -Sanction gouvernementale -La lgislation pourrait devenir plus svre -
04/2012
Legitimacy by sector
04/2012
Stakeholders pressure
Trade associations (norms&standards)
Government (norms)
04/2012
Overcome hurdels
Hrudels
Non-sustainable company
04/2012
Hurdles
Psychological
Incompatibility Ostentatious, superfluous Excess and waste
Real
Financial investment It is no a cost! Risks There are some risks to fail Weak market pressure No intense pressure coming from consumers Supply chain complexity Numerous suppliers and lack of transparency
04/2012
Benefits
Rputation Productivity Assurance contre risque sanction Value creation Long term development HR Customer Profit Stay at the top
Inspiring. Driving change.
155 www.wholebeauty.ch
04/2012
Specific Challenges
Critical dimensions
Social
-Corruption: la haute valeur, la petite taille et la traabilit limite des produits permet
une utilisation non-thique comme le blanchiment dargent. -Contrefaon -Protection des espces animalires. Environment -Disparition des ressources naturelles rares (diamants, or, ) -Le travail des mines peut contaminer leau potable des rgions concerne et menacer lenvironnement naturel et la biodiversit. -Les processus chimiques de traitement des matires premires. -Peu de dchets (cases and boxes...)
04/2012
Virtuous cycle
Pralable Retour sur investissement Engagement
Investissement
Solutions
Rflexion
04/2012
Best practices
Coach Bulgari Shiseido Gucci Tiffany Tods Swatch Herms LOral LVMH Richemont
04/2012
Perspectives
What if CSR was the most important innovation of the 21th Century?
04/2012
Perspectives
The economic crisis is a fracture period It can be used as a chance to evolve We have to move from fast fashion to slow fashion where goods are created to endure for decades Family own buseinss will be slower New norms: ISO 26000
Inspiring. Driving change.
160 www.wholebeauty.ch
04/2012
New consumers
General consumers 71% whish that retailers choose to present only green products and are ready to pay for it (TNS) LOHAS (Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability) = good target Luxury consumers Social and environmental conscientiousness in the luxury consumer segment (Ifop) 30-40% of luxury consumers wish to buy more responsible materials (De Beers) Consumers look for quality form raw material extraction to waste management Consumers want to engage themselves culturally, socially and be more philanthropic (De Beers) Consumers expect healthy experience in each interaction with luxury brands (Deeper Luxury) It is still a passive motivation which need to be feed by luxury brands
Geographical consumersconcern differences (Globalscan) United Stated concern about companies treating employees fairly and their environmental impact Inspiring. / Social China is concern about responsible supply chain / Trustworthy companies Driving change. 161 www.wholebeauty.ch responsibility 04/2012
Wholebeauty - offer
Sustainable luxury
04/2012
Wholebeauty - offer
1
Analysis (Risk, Benefits, Budget,) Development of a new Vision Implementation (Initatives, Structure,) Evaluation help (What to look for) Marketing & Communication Strategy Continuing improvement
Inspiring. Driving change.
163 www.wholebeauty.ch
04/2012
04/2012
Ready to be sustainable?
04/2012
Back UP
04/2012
Vision driven
Vision
Mission
Code de conduite
Rgles et standards
Activits journalires
04/2012
How to go there?
Environmental phases
Non-durable
Social phases
Ecologique
Social
Durable
04/2012
Success factors
Focalise your effort
Incremental change
Keep a vision
Communicate
5 success factors
04/2012
Continuous improvement
Plan Do
Act
Check
Inspiring. Driving change.
170 www.wholebeauty.ch
04/2012
ONG
Consultant environnementaux
Certification
Bureau d'ingnieurs
Consultant social
04/2012
Our services
Awareness building inspiration. Sustainable corporate strategies. Operational driving & implementation. Stakeholder brokerage. Reputation management.
Inspiring. Driving change.
21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 173