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Atelier de sensibilisation lexcellence responsable.

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Inspiring. Driving change.


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Agenda
Contexte gnral Situation dans lindustrie horlogre et bijouterie Comment les marques sy prennent ? Prsentation du RJC Pistes de rflexion
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Contexte

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Contexte

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Contexte

The Rapaport Fair Trade Conference, in Basel Etc.


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Initiatives et NGO

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Dfis dans lindustrie

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Pays avec des enfants travaillants dans les mines


Inspiring. Driving change.

Dfis pour lindustrie


Social
- La provenance des diamants (zone de conflits RDC-Kivu, Sierra Leone) - Les conditions de travail dans les mines (travail des enfants et forc) - Condition de travail dans les manufactures (chane de production) - Traitement de certains matriaux (diamants, pierres) - Corruption, blanchiment dargent - Contrefaon

Environnement et faune

- Disparition des ressources naturelles rares (diamants, or, ) - Protection des espces animalires. - Contamination des eaux (mercure) et la biodiversit. (mines) - Les processus chimiques de traitement des matires premires. (galvanisation) - Packaging, displays, documentation === > dchets - Transport - Magasins : ameublement / clairage / etc

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Quels sont les opportunits ?


Cration de valeur conomie dchelle et optimisation Gestion du risque et mitigation Amlioration des relations avec les parties prenantes. Meilleure rputation et image de marque Avantage comptitif Plus grande productivit et efficience Nouvelles opportunits daffaires Wholebeauty 2009 Source : tude Innovation Inspiring. Driving change.
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Quels sont les freins ?


Pas de compatibilit avec les valeurs du luxe? Un cot, pas un investissement Profitabilit ? Peur du greenwashing et manque de crdibilit Faible pression du march (consommateurs, rgulateurs) Manque de connaissance, expertise, outils, indicateurs. Complexit de la chaine Source : tude Wholebeauty 2009 dapprovisionnement Conservatisme, maximisation du profit change. Inspiring. Driving Taille et structure des entreprises
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Dfis des marques


Comprendre les enjeux. Convaincre le top management. Scurisation des ressources : budget, quipe. Commencer : O? Comment? Avec qui? Implmentation & gestion du changement Vivre le dveloppement durable. Mesurer & faire du reporting Communication Inspiring. Driving change.
Source : tude Wholebeauty 2009
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Quel est le vrai dfi ?


Christopher H. Cordey WholeBeauty @ Sustainable Luxury 2.0 September 28, 2010
Inspiring. Driving change.

Quel est le vrai dfi ?


Tirer parti de laugmentation de la population et de la consommation et travailler de manire collective pour trouver et implmenter des solutions pour grer les consquences ngatives associes cette croissance
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COM MENT

?
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9 milliards de personnes nourrir en 2050. Des 3 milliards de personnes en plus

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La migration de masse redistribue la population mondiale

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Urbanisation: dici 2015 tout devient plus grand

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Une population vieillissante, mais en meilleure sant

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Raret des ressources

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Lmancipation la femme

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et Technologies

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Mega trends
1. Lexplosion de la dmographie mondiale et les modifications de dmographies socitales 2. Les changements climatiques et environnementaux 3. La crise nergtique venir 4. La globalisation croissante 5. Lacclration du dveloppement exponentiel de la technologie 6. Le modle Prvention des maladies - Extension de la longvit en mdecine
Inspiring. Driving change.
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Lexcellence responsable
Planification, organisation, gestion une compagnie de luxe rentable dans le respect de lenvironnement et la communaut, et ainsi contribuer la rduction des missions de CO2 et au bien-tre de la population.

Prestige. People. Planet. Profit. Inspiring. Driving change.


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Notre vision
Un monde ou chaque acheteur dun produit ou un service de luxe vivra une exprience dachat la fois extraordinaire et responsable.
Photo : AIM Leader

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Quelle est la situation dans lindustrie du luxe ?


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Comment rpondent les marques de luxe/horlogerie ? 5 tapes


1) 2) 3) 4) 5) Dfensif Its not our job to fix that Conformit We will do as much as we have to Managriale Its the business ! Stratgique It gives us a competitive edge Civil We have to make sure everybody does it !

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Vers lExcellence Responsable

Inspiring. Driving change.


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JA

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Mais...

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Audemars Piguet
Quen est-il ?
- Campagne Dirty Gold ? - Conflict free diamonds ? - Principes dapprovisionnement des pierres prcieuses ? - Dialogue avec les parties prenantes ? - Audit de la chaine dapprovisionnement ? - CITES (bracelets ) ? - Responsible Jewelry Council ? - Formation interne ? - Communication ?

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Etape 2

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Etape 2 : Fred Meyer

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Etape 2 : Gay Freres SAS

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Etape 3

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Etape 3

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Etape 3 - 4

(*) Source : web

Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009

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Etape 3 - 4

(*) Source : web

Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009

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Comment comparer?
Critres Cartier

tre un pionnier Comme Richemont

Tiffany&Co

Style durable Oui Kimberley + Laurelton Diamonds Specific sourcing policy. Pas dor sal. Position sur les pierres prcieuses birmanes Membre fondateur de RJC, Oxfam, Earthworks, ARM, IRMA Seaweb (marine protection). CITES. Inspiring. Driving change. CDP 44
Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009

Stratgie CSR
Objectifs Code de Conduite

Diamants Kimberley + additional


system of guarantee

Mtaux prcieux

Probablement

Efforts collaboratifs

Membre fondateur de RJC

Autres
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CITES.
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Comment les comparer?


Criteria Programme spcial quipe CSR Communicatio n GRI reporting Emphasis (environment) Emphasis (social)
CSR manager Site internet / Rapport Oui Produits toxiques, conomie deau, distribution and nergie

Cartier

Tiffany&Co
Multidimensionnel Social Comptabilit programme Inconnu Site internet / Rapport Non Energie, emballage, biodiversit, eau, dchets

Droits de lhomme, Formation continue, travail des enfants, droits de lhomme, sant et scurit, chane philantropie, achats Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009 dapprovisionnement, corruption et blanchiment dargent Inspiring. Driving change.
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Etape 3 - 4
Les motivations daprs Rosy Blue

Gestion des risques


Lgal Oprationnel Rputationel Protection de la marque

Efficience

Cration de produits durables

Rduction du cot du matriel entrant, nergie, transport Increase labor productivity

Respecter lvolution des exigences des clients et des partenaires Innover pour changer le march Intgrit du produit
Source : Rosy Blue

Gouvernance, Gestion, Transparence


Inspiring. Driving change.
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Etape 5

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RJC Process

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RJC Code of practices

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RJC Principles

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RJC Scope

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Benfices

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Question

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Recommendation
Dcider et mobiliser
Oui ou Non (Si Non, quels sont les risques ?) Si, Oui alors
Quelle stratgie ? (C ou S) Quelles ressources ?
Champion interne project manager Budget

Mobiliser (int/ext) pourquoi ? comment ?

Analyser, sinformer et comprendre


Situation interne (procdures, diamants, or, lois) + pays concerns Carte des parties-prenantes. Veille concurrentielle, lgale, etc Les diffrentes initiatives, dont RJC

Sengager pratiquement
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Parties prenantes
Banks Insurers
Parent Co Shareholders Employees Communities Investors & Risk Assessors NGOs Thought leaders Rule-Marker & Watchdogs Corporate campaigner Politicians & Regulator Media

Adler
Clients & Community Business Partners & Competitors

Industry Assoc.
Suppliers Competitor Distributors

The Future Kids


Clients

Retailers CEO Peers

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Stratgies
Conformit

(suiveur)
- Adhrer au RJC - Self-assessment - Certification RJC + autres lois, rgles, etc
We will do as much as we have to

Managriale/Strat. (leadership
Approche stratgique - Vision 2022 - Mission/Obj/Strat gies - Soutenir une initiative (ethical gold Its the business sourcing)
Competitive edge

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Backcasting

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How can we escort you to leverage the benefits of sustainability in your organisation ?
Christopher H. Cordey
Strategic Catalyst Officer
WholeBeauty SA
Ch. de Terre Bonne 1 1262 Eysins / Switzerland

www.wholebeauty.ch
contact@wholebeauty.ch Fix : + 41 22 550 29 62 Mobile : + 41 79 457 37 61

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Christopher H. Cordey
Agent du changement

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http://www.cbsnews.com/video/w atch/?id=5825986n&tag=related; photovideo

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Situation dans le luxe


Pour chaque secteur dactivit, dites si vous lassociez avec une implication dans le dveloppement durable?

Source IFOP 2008

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HEC Lausanne
Situation actuelle: Communication de la marque

72% des europens sont favorables au marketing de lux sur Internet (Comit Colert 2009) Analyse personnelle des 75 membres des sites internet du Comit Colbert Design et communications excellents La durabilit est un lment central 50 ne mentionnent pas le dveloppement durable 10 y font rfrence implicitement 15 y font rfrence explicitement

Inspiring. Driving change.


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La ralit actuelle ?
Ethics and Sustainability in Business - Prof. Christopher H. Cordey 68

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Ethics and Sustainability in Business - Prof. Christopher H. Cordey 69

Quest ce que l

Excellence Responsable ?
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Responsable ?

Profit

People

Planet

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Equilibre

People

Planet

Profit

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Drivers Enjeux Freins Opportunits Dfis


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Drivers
Obligations societales & morales Rchauffement climatique Cots et profit

Gestion des croyances

Excellenc e Responsa ble

Relation communaut

Actions des concurrents

Pressions des clients

Rgulations

Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009

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Enjeux par type de produits

Source : Etude WholeBeauty. 2009

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http://hbr.org/2010/09/how-i-did-it-timberlands-ceo-on-standing-up-to-65000-angry-activists/ar/1

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Qui sont les parties prenantes dAudemars Piguet ?

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En conclusions
La consommation tique est encore une motivation passive dune minorit dacheteurs de luxe; mais grandissante et puissante! Elles ont les moyens ($) de sengager. Elles ne sont pas seules ! Ne jamais sous-estimer le pouvoir des millennials et du web 2.0. Lopportunit existe pour les marques de luxe de profiter de lexcellence durable, mais elles doivent relever le dfi Ici et Maintenant !
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Et maintenant ?
Inspiring. Driving change.
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Conclusion
Quel est mon rle et ma mission dans la socit (sens gnral)/sur cette plante ? Que puis-je faire pour contribuer faire de cette plante un monde meilleur, plus inclusif, thique, transparent et respectueux ? Comment vais-je tre un acteur du changement et ainsi influencer les dcisionnaires de mon entreprise ?
Inspiring. Driving change.
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Merci
Christopher H. Cordey
WholeBeauty SA Ch. de Terre Bonne 1 1262 Eysins / Switzerland

www.wholebeauty.c h
contact@wholebeauty.ch
Fix : + 41 22 550 29 62 Mobile : + 41 79 457 37 61 Inspiring. Driving change.
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Nos activits
INSPIRE
Understand what sustainability is all about Understand the brand & sectors sustainability issues Enlighten the top and mid management Outline the steps toward sustainability

FORMALIZE
15 steps : Sustainable Development Strategy Goals, Vision, Value statement, mission Benchmarking, budget Stakeholders definition, strategy and engagement Key indicators performance, cost/benefit analysis, Implementation, feedback, optimisation, exit strategy

MOBILIZE
Training, Education and incentive program Driving Change Workshop Mobilization Workshop

VITALIZE
Review and optimize existing sustainability and CSR initiatives Leverage new opportunities Inspire staff and external stakeholders Encourage public commitment

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Presentation done by WholeBeauty SA to

MAS-Luxury Management
Chopard
September 4, 2009

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Sustainability journey

DeBeers, Report to society 2007.

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On starting DeBeers

DeBeers, Report to society 2007.

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On reporting - DeBeers

DeBeers, Report to society 2007.

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How to proceed ?
(1) Build awareness (4) Engage stakeholders (6) Focus efforts (5) Drive change, incrementally. (2) Win the top management

(3) Vision, Strategy, Budget

(8) Report/ Communicate

Towards Sustainable Excellence

(7) Measure progress

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Our solutions
INSPIRE
Understand what sustainability is all about Understand the brand & sectors sustainability issues Inspire, convice and get the top management committed Outline the steps toward sustainability

FORMALIZE
15 Steps : Sustainable Development Strategy
Goals, purpose, value statement, mission Benchmarking, budget Stakeholders definition, strategy and engagement Key indicators performance, cost/benefit analysis, Implementation, feedback, optimisation, exit strategy

VITALIZE
Review and optimize existing sustainability and CSR initiatives Leverage new opportunities Drive change Inspire staff and external stakeholders Encourage public commitment

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Conclusion
Sustainable development is
An art, not a science. A journey, not a quick fix (long term view) An investment, not a cost. A way to save costs. A must do not a may be Now, strategic and progressive Simply good sense and risk management. Everyones responsibility Driving change. Inspiring.
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Evolving consumer needs


There is a marked shift in the buying patterns of luxury consumers. Luxury consumers are becoming more discerning in their purchases. This is also relevant in emerging markets, like India and China. Brand value comes under closer scrutiny as luxury moves into harder economic times Extending the philosophy of excellence from sourcing to disposal. Changes point to a tougher competitive landscape for luxury players.
Inspiring. Driving change.
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DeBeers Survey, 2009

The move to discerning luxury consumption.

From what you wear to who you are From Design to Disposal
DeBeers Survey, 2009

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Conclusion
Dont ask what your country, company or other can do to improve the state of the planet and the morality of the business; decide what you will do at your level to be more responsible, respectful and accountable and do it.
Adapted from JFK Inspiring. Driving change.
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Social Value

Economic Value Optimiz e


Increase income

Environmental Value

Financial dimension

Guarantee financing

Reduce costs and expenses

Enlightened client ! Brand reputation and image.


Responsible company Great quality and design products Satisfied employees, distributors and retailers

Stakeholders dimension

Process & technology dimension

SD Vision + Strategy
Optimized social inclusion, responsibility, participation, collaboration

Optimized financial planning and organisation.


Optimized supply chain

Manage risks

Reduced environmental impact

Human Resources dimension

Organisation capital (culture,


leadership, alignment, teamwork)

Information Capital
(IT, information)

Human Capital
(Staff, H&S)

WholeBeauty Sustainability model


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How responsible and accountable are you ?

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Opportunities ?
What if the marketing department became the internal and external change agent (in coordination/cooperation with CSR team) to drive CSR within Swarovski ?
Benchmarking vs other brands >>> Goodcorporation.com Sustainable marketing ? >>> Guidelines + education Leveraging SCS 400 k members ? >>> Program Sustainable Event Management ? >>>> Guidelines Driving change within the organization ? >>> Education Formalizing reporting system ? >>> Tool + KPI Inspiring. Driving change. Communication ? >>>> Sustainability report.
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Survey results
Organisation

(*)

Structure : CSR coordinator, budget, etc. Norms and principles : ISO (14001 et 9001), UN Global Compact, ILO Convention, SA 8000. Associations : CRJC, ARM, Colipa, Ore. Growing impact of measurement and communication Sustainable marketing : more and more developped : Communication: web, PR, and annual SRE reporting

Not so much involved (enviro) Sustainable event Sustainable packaging Sustainable cleaning Carbon Audit Mobility

Not so much involved (socio) Diversity Staff motivation Philantropy Corporate Governance

(*) Web + one to one interviews, 200 leading luxury and cosmetics brands. 15 % return rate. April 2009.

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Obstacles to CSR
Psychological
Incompatibility Ostentatious, superfluous Excess and waste Consumers are not interested This a false belief!

Real
Financial investment It is not a cost! Risks There are some risks to fail Lack of expertise CSR Weak market pressure No intense pressure coming from consumers, legislators, etc

Fear the Greenwashing Ensure deep integration


Conservatism, Greed Fear the unknown

Supply chain complexity Numerous suppliers and Inspiring. Driving lack of transparency change.
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What we suggest
Meeting CSR responsible

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Corporate Social Responsibility as a value creation for luxury brands.


Inspiring. Driving change.

Content
1

Wholebeauty : who, what, how

2
3 4 5

What is sustainability ?
Sustainability in the luxury industry ? Case study Future directions

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Tiffany & Co
CSR department ? Team ? Budget ? Seemingly, no communication related to
1. 2. Envrionmental issues : carbon audit, etc, Social issues : H&S, diversity, equality, consumer security, counterfeit, animal welfare, corruption, money laundering.

Lack of :
figures. yearly objectives. real reporting. .

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Wholebeauty : who, what, how What is sustainability ?

2
3 4 5

Sustainability in luxury industry ?


Case study

Recommandations stratgiques

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What is Sustainability?
The economic development that meets the needs of the present generation without compromising the ability of future generation to meet their own needs (*)

The Triple Bottom line


(*) Source : Btuntland, 1986

People. Planet. Profit.


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How is todays inbalance ?

People

Planet

Profit

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Todays context ?

Profit
People Planet

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A sustainable company

People

Planet

Profit

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Triple bottom line


PEOPLE
Bearable Sustainable Equitable

PLANET

Viable

PROFIT

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Why luxury brand need to be concerned.


Sport is affected by climate change. Sport is inspirational & can be a leader of change. Sponsors will start to demand it. Regulations will require it. Costs will become unsustainable.

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Wholebeauty : who, what, how

2
3 4 5

What is sustainable development ?


Sustainability in the luxury industry ? Case study Recommandations stratgiques

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Global situation

The Conference Board of Canada, Corporate Social Responsibility Review, p.5

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Diamond Road. Rapaport

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Events which urged company to react ?


Exogenous event Exxon Valdez. Planned event NGOs demonstration outside Gap HQ in San Francisco. Expos Stories by investigative reporters Chiquita. Perceived Threat Tiffany & Co. Perceived Opportunity Body Shop.
Inspiring. Driving change.
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Types of response
Responders: Bitten Brands BBs react to a PR disaster by naming a CSR leader.
Gap, Chiquita, Wal-Mart.

Reputation Managers Brands move out to preempt threat. Risk/compliance manager may report to general counsel. May work closely with industry.
Tiffany & Co.

Proactivists Brand sees opportunity to grow by selling CSR.


Timberland, Eileen Fisher, Otto Versand. change. Inspiring. Driving
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Tiffany & Co. Case


Iconic brand sells calm.
Nothing very bad could happen to you there.

Engine 1:
Conflict Diamonds which led to Kimberley Process.

Engine 2:
No Dirty Gold campaign.

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Tiffany & Co. Case


- CEO Michael J. Kowalski and VP Rob Headley - Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices - Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance

- Etc.

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Stakeholders

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How to proceed 15 steps


1. Identify business goals and decide upon the purpose of sustainable development 2. Define value statement and mission of company, and refine internally with management and employees. How does the long-term vision match up with business goals? 3. Benchmark what your competitors are doing on CSR? 4. Decide on overall budget 5. Identify key stakeholders
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How to proceed 15 steps


6. Research: What are the latest business standards? Check out SA8000, AA1000, GRI, ILO conventions, WTO discussions, Caux principles, UN Global Compact and so on. What are the key issues for us as a business and why? 7. Identify CSR strategy for each stakeholder 8. Revise budget accordingly 9. Carry out stakeholder dialogue 10. Identify the key indicators to measure our progress as a socially responsible entreprise.
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How to proceed 15 steps


11. Identify the costs and benefits of the proposals. 12. Implement the activity or program ensuring that it relates well to other proposals in the pipeline. 13. Research and develop a series of advertisements to show what we are doing in the area of CSR and market the program accordingly. Ensure that you can back this up with internal consistent practices since this is a dangerous pitfall if that is not the case. 14. Evaluate the social responsibility proposals against cost/benefits. 15. Develop longer-term exit strategy

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Perceived obstacles for SD


Usual response for not walking the talks.
Inconsistency with luxury values Cost/investment are high in period of crisis Nothing is proven Fear of greenwashing Weak market pressure Lack of expertise, time and KPI Complex supply chain, we cannot do anything Conservatism and greed Size of companies Family run business
Inspiring. Driving change.
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If SD was not simply


a great opportunity to revise the way companies do and run business ? about good risk management ? about good reputation management ? a great competitive advantage ? a way to save costs ?
Inspiring. Driving change.
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From compliance to profit!

M. Brunner, CSM/WWF Research Project: The Business Case for Sustainability, IMD, p.41

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Cercle vertueux
Retour sur investissements Pralabl es

Investissements

Engageme nt

Solutions

Choix des Objectif s

Rflexion
Adapt de: G.,Octave & Co, Dveloppement durable, pour une entreprise comptitive et responsable, p153

Boucle de renforcement conduit vers une amlioration continue


Inspiring. Driving change.
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Organisation Ressources organisationnelles: coordinateur RSE, budget, etc. Normes et principes : ISO (14001 et 9001), UN Global Compact, ILO Convention, SA 8000. Associations en lien avec la RSE: CRJC, lARM, Colipa et Ore. Mesurent limpact et les rsultats de leur stratgie La majorit a recours aux services de consultant ou montre de lintrt Marketing durable: Les Parfums Givenchy Collection Ange et Dmon Clarins analyse du cycle de vie, lorigine et de limpact des matires premires Communication: web, relation publiques et rapports RSE

Rsultats de ltude auprs des marques

Manque dimplication environnemental Evnement durable Technique de nettoyage durable Bilan carbone Emballages responsables Mobilit dentreprise

Manque dimplication sociale Diversit Systme de motivation Philanthropie Gouvernance

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Effet boule de neige


+ Pressions des parties prenantes + Bonnes pratiques

+ Attention des parties prenantes

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Evolution
Moteurs de changement
Pression des parties prenantes Conjoncture Globalisation Management Social

Nouveaux Besoins
Changer la faon de percevoir le dveloppement durable Comprendre les bnfices (conomiques, environnementaux et sociaux) Prouver la rentabilit de la RSE Crer un modle conomique, un cadre de travail Dfinir un instrument de mesure Amliorer la structure et les processus dans lentreprise. Revoir le processus de production et les activits dapprovisionnement Contrler les fournisseurs et la traabilit des produits Gagner le support du top management Nommer un responsable/coordinateur en charge de la RSE Services dun consultant Etc.

WholeBeauty devra sappliquer rpondre ces besoins


Inspiring. Driving change.
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Key Success Factors


Engage ext + int stakeholders Focus efforts CEO & Mgt commitment

Drive change and change steps by steps

Develop a vision + strategy

Communicate

Measure progress

Towards Sustainability

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Changement incrmental
Dveloppement environnemental
Durable Social

Dveloppement social

Ecologique Nondurable
Adapt de: D. Dunphy & Co, Organizational change for corporate sustainability, p.227

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Changement incrmental
Dveloppement environnemental
Durable Social

Dveloppement social

Ecologique Nondurable
Adapt de: D. Dunphy & Co, Organizational change for corporate sustainability, p.227

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Consommateurs
Clients potentiels du luxe

Adapt de: A. Renaudin, When the consumer meets the citizen, what stake for the luxury activity ?, p.5

WholeBeauty devra sappliquer rpondre ces besoins


Inspiring. Driving change.
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Consommateurs (2)
General consumers 71% souhaiterait que les distributeurs choississent de prsenter uniquement des produits responsable et sont prt payer une prime pour ce service (TNS) LOHAS (Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability) = cible idale Luxury consumers Conscience envieonnemental et soical chez les consommateur de luxe (Ifop) 30-40% des clients du luxe souhaiteraient acheter plus de produits responsables (De Beers) Les consommateurs recherchent de la qualit depuis lextraction des matires premires jusqu la gestion des dchets Les consommateurs dsirent simmerger eux-mmes culturellement, socialement et de manire plus philanthropique (De Beers) Les clients espre une exprience saine lors de haque interraction avec les marques de luxe (Deeper Luxury) Il sagit encore de motivation passive qui aura besoin dtre dveloppe par le marketing des marques de luxe

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Enterprise Matires premires Nouveau march

Clients

Approvisionnement Production

Distribution

Rcupration (distribution inverse)

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Produit

Marketing traditionnel - Rpondre aux attentes traditionnelles des consommateurs - Qualit - Surpasser leurs attentes/dsirs - Offrir du rve

Marketing Mix

Communicati - Atteindre le public cible on - Emotion - Crer un univers de marque - Transmettre du rve

Distribution

- Distribuer le produit aux consommateurs

Prix

- Exclusivit - Inaccessibilit - Gage de qualit

Marketing durable - Intgrer laspect social et environnemental (cycle de vie) - Dveloppement cross-fonctionnel - Durabilit et responsabilit - Ressources et matire premires - Mthode DFE - Emballages responsables - Intgrer des lments rationnels - Eco-communication - Donner une nouvelle dimension au rve - Education des parties prenantes - Attention la promotion dun idal fminin - Contrler la promotion des produits destins des personnes majeures (vins et spiritueux) - Respect des donnes prives lies aux clients - Optimiser les transports - Minimiser les dchets et la pollution - Distribution inverse (rcupration) - Slectionner des distributeurs responsables - Emballages de transport rutilisable - Mthode DFE - Prix = responsabilit et produit durable - Nouveau rapport qualit/prix - Value Based Costing Inspir de : Donald A. Fuller, Sustainable Marketing, p, 89, 111, 113, - Allocation des cots = mthode ABC
114
136

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Inspiring. Driving change.


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Where to act ? et scurit li aux produits Changement climatique Sant

Produits plus quitables

Durabilit

Droits de lhomme

Condition de travail et scurit

Bnfices pour les employs (retraite, etc.)


Inspiring. Driving change.

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Pyramide
Vision Mission

Code de conduite

Rgles et standards

Activits journalires

Inspir de: Shiseido, Rapport annuel, 2006

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Its all about Climate Change


TOP 10 ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES :
1. Climate Change 2. Energy 3. Water 4. Biodiversity and land use 5. Chemical, toxics,heavy metals 6. Air Pollution 7. Waste management 8. Ozone Layer depletion 9. Oceans and Fisheries 10. Deforestation
Source : Green to Gold, Esty/Winston

Inspiring. Driving change.


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What is global warming ?

Inspiring. Driving change.


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What is Sustainable developmtent ?


- Good sense ! - Risk management and mitigation. - A way to be more accountable. - Etc
(*) Source : Btuntland, 1986

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Initial conclusions (2)


Sustainable development is
An art, not a science. A journey, not a quick fix (long term view) A savings generator An investment, not a cost. A must do not a may be Now, strategic and progressive Simply good sense Everyones responsibility : we are all a change agent and accountable for our actions.
Inspiring. Driving change.
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Initial conclusions (3)


Cost savings :
Can be generated short, mid, long term. Are a consequence of sustainble development. Should not be a decision criteria to embed or not sustainable development.

Key Success Factors :



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Planning, Planning and Planning Time, Time, Time. Good sense, good sense, Good sense. Assessment, measure, optimisation.
Inspiring. Driving change.

Initial conclusions (4)


Key Success Factors :
Planning, planning, planning ! Time. Good sense. Continuous effort. Kaizen = continuous improvement.

Inspiring. Driving change.


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There is still time to avoid the worst impacts of climate change, if we take strong action now

Lord Stern of Brentford, Stern Report, 2006 Inspiring. Driving change.


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Inspiring. Driving change.


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Sustainable - main challenges


Climate change Health and safety products Pension Employees benefits Human rights

Inspiring. Driving change.


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SWOT: Luxury and CSR


Strengths
Client instruit et attentif Produit de trs haute qualit Marges financires : facilite linvestissement Conscience des problmes Epuisement de ressources naturelles rares Cible des critiques mdiatique Condition de travail en amont de la production

Weaknesses
Luxe= Non-rationnelle, superflu et sans limite Ingalit (riche-pauvre) dans le monde

Envie damliorer les choses


Existence of fair trade associations (CRJP, CIBJO, WBCSD,)

Manque de connaissance des concepts durable


Entreprises familiales ou de petite taille Le luxe nest pas en avance

Inspiring. Driving change.


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SWOT: Luxury and CSR


Opportunities
Devenir un pionnier Intrt croissant des consommateurs Attrait dans les marchs de lest Greenwashing Intrt des employs Soutien (gouvernement, banques,) Crise conomique Changement de valeur Globalisation (marque/tendance durable) Amlioration performance conomique Luxury industry could have a large impact because of its role as a trendsetter

Threats
Inertie, on fait dj assez Fraude, non respect des rgles en amont (fournisseur)

Increasing stakeholderspressure : -Attaque ONG -Propagation mdiatique -Sanction gouvernementale -La lgislation pourrait devenir plus svre -

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Legitimacy by sector

Inspiring. Driving change.


151 www.wholebeauty.ch Source: IFOP, Alain Renaudin

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Stakeholders pressure
Trade associations (norms&standards)

Managers / Employees (working conditions, diversity,)

Suppliers (responsible and motivated)

Consumers (responsible luxury) Luxury Brand Medias (New trend)

Community (local development)

Government (norms)

NGO(Diamonds, mining, human rights, )

Shareholders (sustainable investments)

Retailers (direct contact with clients)


Inspiring. Driving change.
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Overcome hurdels
Hrudels

Non-sustainable company

Sustainable company which benefit froms CSR advantages

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Hurdles
Psychological
Incompatibility Ostentatious, superfluous Excess and waste

Real
Financial investment It is no a cost! Risks There are some risks to fail Weak market pressure No intense pressure coming from consumers Supply chain complexity Numerous suppliers and lack of transparency

Consumers are not interested This a false belief!


Fear the Greenwashing Ensure deep integration Conservatism Fear the unknown

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Benefits
Rputation Productivity Assurance contre risque sanction Value creation Long term development HR Customer Profit Stay at the top
Inspiring. Driving change.
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Specific Challenges
Critical dimensions

Social

-La provenance des diamants


- Les conditions de travail dans les mines (travail des enfants et forc) -Condition de travail dans les manufactures (chane de production) -Non divulgation du traitement de certains matriaux

-Corruption: la haute valeur, la petite taille et la traabilit limite des produits permet
une utilisation non-thique comme le blanchiment dargent. -Contrefaon -Protection des espces animalires. Environment -Disparition des ressources naturelles rares (diamants, or, ) -Le travail des mines peut contaminer leau potable des rgions concerne et menacer lenvironnement naturel et la biodiversit. -Les processus chimiques de traitement des matires premires. -Peu de dchets (cases and boxes...)

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Virtuous cycle
Pralable Retour sur investissement Engagement

Investissement

Choix des Objectifs

Solutions

Rflexion

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Best practices
Coach Bulgari Shiseido Gucci Tiffany Tods Swatch Herms LOral LVMH Richemont

Complet sur quelle points: Manque:


Inspiring. Driving change.
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Perspectives

What if CSR was the most important innovation of the 21th Century?

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Perspectives
The economic crisis is a fracture period It can be used as a chance to evolve We have to move from fast fashion to slow fashion where goods are created to endure for decades Family own buseinss will be slower New norms: ISO 26000
Inspiring. Driving change.
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New consumers
General consumers 71% whish that retailers choose to present only green products and are ready to pay for it (TNS) LOHAS (Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability) = good target Luxury consumers Social and environmental conscientiousness in the luxury consumer segment (Ifop) 30-40% of luxury consumers wish to buy more responsible materials (De Beers) Consumers look for quality form raw material extraction to waste management Consumers want to engage themselves culturally, socially and be more philanthropic (De Beers) Consumers expect healthy experience in each interaction with luxury brands (Deeper Luxury) It is still a passive motivation which need to be feed by luxury brands

Geographical consumersconcern differences (Globalscan) United Stated concern about companies treating employees fairly and their environmental impact Inspiring. / Social China is concern about responsible supply chain / Trustworthy companies Driving change. 161 www.wholebeauty.ch responsibility 04/2012

Wholebeauty - offer

Sustainable luxury

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Wholebeauty - offer
1

Analysis (Risk, Benefits, Budget,) Development of a new Vision Implementation (Initatives, Structure,) Evaluation help (What to look for) Marketing & Communication Strategy Continuing improvement
Inspiring. Driving change.
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Future needs where we can help!


Conceptualized framework (Determine where and how to invest)

Strategic integration (culutre, all business units,)


Change mindset Recrutement : Poor knowledge

Analytical Accounting to determine cost of responsible practces and revenues


Develop leaders on CSR Control supply chain, decrease complexity Organization : trade off Long term development vs short term actvites Mdias : rapporter des info pertinente, non biaise. Gouvernement : Dduction pour bonne pratique, baisse de limposition !?

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Thank you for your attention!

Ready to be sustainable?

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Back UP

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Vision driven
Vision

Mission

Code de conduite

Rgles et standards

Activits journalires

Inspiring. Driving change.


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How to go there?
Environmental phases

Non-durable

Social phases

Ecologique

Social

Durable

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Success factors
Focalise your effort

Incremental change

Keep a vision

Communicate
5 success factors

Measure your results

Sustainable luxury company


Inspiring. Driving change.
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Continuous improvement
Plan Do

Act

Check
Inspiring. Driving change.
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Consultant dveloppement durable

ONG

Consultant environnementaux

Certification

Bureau d'ingnieurs

Consultant social

Inspiring. Driving change.


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Inspiring. Driving change. 172


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Our services
Awareness building inspiration. Sustainable corporate strategies. Operational driving & implementation. Stakeholder brokerage. Reputation management.
Inspiring. Driving change.
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Can you really afford not to be concerned ?


Inspiring. Driving change.

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