Post Independence Decline of Khadi Textile Industry

Abhishek Anand

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Objective
To analyze the decline of khadi textile industry.

To study about the new developments of khadi textile industry.

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Research Methodology:Secondary Research:

Books Magazines Internet

Primary Research:
Data Collection Tool
Questionnaires Interview

Sampling Method
Judgmental Sampling Questionnaires-100 Interview-25

Sample Size
National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Introduction
Swadeshi is the soul of Swaraj, khadi is the essence of swedeshi ! Mahatma Gandhi Khadi is Livery of our Freedom! Jwaharlal Nehru At the helm our Independence movement, khadi was not just an ordinary fabric but a symbol of unity Slowly as the Nation became indepenent Khadi started losing its importance
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The Decline
Post Independence, India opts for large scale State Funded Industrialization Big textile mills are setup across country Khadi being completely handmade becomes more expensive in comparison to its mill made counterpart Khadi used to be dimensionally inconsistent in comparison to mill made fabric with problems of Shrinkage and Stretch
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The Decline
The aesthetics also didnt work in favour, with Khadi being rough and irregular Color options were very limited in Khadi Use of vegetable and natural dyes with no industrial boosters led to the poor color stability to washing and rubbing And last but not the least, branding of Khadi as a Poor Mans Cloth made it undesirable.

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Advent of KVIC
In 1953 Khadi and Village Industry Commission took the reins from All India Khadi and Village Industries Board (Estd.January 1953) whose primary focus was to employ thousands of spinners all across the country KVIC was formed as a nobal agency which will support sale of Khadi through its retail outlets KHADI BHANDARS

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Objectives Of KVIC
The social objective of providing employment The economic objective of producing saleable articles, The wider objective of creating self-reliance amongst the poor and developing a strong rural community spirit All the above points were noble and just in the era when Khadi was about to loose its significance in a highly competitive market
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Boon Turns Bane

Advent of KVIC which was looked upon as a boon actually was actually a devil in disguise. Red Tapeism and Bureaucracy made the funds impossible to be allocated in a justified manner The middlemen and KVIC officials reaped maximum benefits and state of spinners and weavers continued to decline A lot of bogus and non working weaving units mushroomed just to get the benefits of rebates and funds of KVIC, never bringing any product over the counter
National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Boon Turns Bane

Lack of proper training to spinners and weavers led to further problem of non quality products A proper supervision of pre production process led to a poor raw material The spinning wheels being left un standarized and non calibrated gave yarns of different characteristics leading to the irregularities at the fabric stage As there was no clear organization structure and clear allocation of jobs and responsibilities , this sector remained unorganized unsure about course of future

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Boon Turns Bane

KVIC did not put any attention towards the products being sold in the their retail outlets KHADI BHANDARS leading to Customer dissatisfaction People started loosing the faith in khadi products Soon the image got tarnished and reduced to khadi becoming a synonym of rough, coarse and ill fitted Kurtas to be worn only by politicians

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Fashion :- A Ray of Hope

During this Black Age there came a renaissance Devika Bhojwani a Fashion Designer pioneered the Swadeshi label of Khadi ensembles. KVIC in 1989 organised a fashion show showcasing her collection This was the first step towards changing Khadi's earlier image of being unfashionable 1990, the Delhi based designer, Ritu Kumar presented her first Khadi collection, Tree of Life
National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Fashion :- A Ray of Hope

With increasing interest of the western world in use of handloom and Khadi, many Indian designers began to use Khadi for their designs KVIC started the revamp of KHADI BHANDARS by opening air conditioned shops with garments designed by big names in fashion industry as the products. Khadi started to be viewed as an alternative of Linen, and slowly the image paradigm started its shift towards being fashionable
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Khadi Now and Then

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Khadi on Ramp

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Production from 1950-1990

Production of Khadi
350 300 Crores of Rupees 250 200 150 100 50 0 1955-56 1960-61 1965-66 19-68-69 1973-74 1977-78 1978-79 1979-80 1984-83 1989-90 Series1

Series 1-crores of rupees Source-KVIC

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Sales 1950-1990
Sales of Khadi
350 Crores Of Rupees 300 250 200 150 100 50 0 195556 196061 1965- 19-68- 197366 69 74 197778 197879 197980 198483 198990 Series1

Series 1-sales incrores of rupees

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Source-KVIC

Employment 1950-1990
Employment (Full time+Part time)
25 20 In lakhs 15
Series1

10 5 0 1955-561960-611965-66 19-68- 1973-741977-781978-79 1979-801984-831989-90 69

Series 1-in lakhs

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Source-KVIC

Fashion and Khadi Post 2000

With many designers experimenting with Khadi, the designs are no longer as simple as they used to be. A great deal of emphasis was given to the details of the designs and many new colours were introduced. Eco-friendly vat dyes were used. March 2002, Preyasi, the official designer for KVIC, launched "TheKhadi Range Collection-2002." In the collection, Khadi was used to create apparel such as, casual shirts,waist coats, skirts, wrap-arounds, trousers, parallels, and tops for women
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Government and Khadi Post 2000

In 2000-2001, funds to the tune of Rs. 1.29 billion were released for providing huge subsidies and grants to the Khadi sector Concerted efforts were made to root out corruption in the payment of rebate Regular vigilance raids were conducted in various parts of the country to detect malpractices in claiming of Khadi rebates and to distinguish between genuine and bogus Khadi and village industries
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Government and Khadi Post 2000

In May 2000, the Ministry of Small Scale Industries announced a special package of Rs.12.15 billion for KVIC Rs.0.3 billion had been allocated for renovation of the existing outlets Rs 0.4 billion was sanctioned for promotional activities October 2001, KVIC signed a memorandum of understanding with the Ahmedabad-based National Institute of Design (NID) to provide it design support in order to improve the diminishing market-share of Khadi

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Government and Khadi Post 2000

KVIC registered Khadi as a brand name, thereby, protecting it legally KVIC launched two separate brands, Sarvodaya and Khadi in August 2001 Khadi the brand focuses on Export and up market KVIC allotted huge funds into research and development to improve the quality of Khadi

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Sales 2001-2010
Khadi Sales
700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 2001-2010
Series 1- in crore rupees
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In Crores Rupees

Series1

SOURCE-kVIC

Employment 2001-2010
Employment in Khadi Sector
10 9.5 9 8.5 8 7.5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 2001-2010
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In Crores

Series1

Series 1-employment in crores

Source-KVIC

Production Comparison
Comparison: Village and Khadi Industries
16000
Production Revenue in Crores

14000 12000 10000 8000 6000 4000 2000 0 1 2 3 4 5 6

2000-2010

10

11

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The Way ahead

Though the Indian Government provided huge financial assistance to KVIC, the funds did not produce the desired result Through a survey by a global consulting firm , Andrew Anderson some suggestions were made which may work out in the favour of KHADI

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Suggestions of Andrew Anderson

KVIC should be a policy-making body and play a strategic role rather than being involved in the operations It should be made a market-oriented organization, and given the freedom to decide on the issues of rebate An independent marketing company be formed, which would be disintegrated from the existing KVIC
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Suggestions of Andrew Anderson

This company would also deal with improvements in the quality of products, packaging and marketing Special rebate on Khadi products be made available in the first week of every month, instead of the usual 90-day period after the month of October A separate Research and Development team along with a design team must be in place to insure constant Innovation
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Finding of primary Research

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Do you prefer khadi

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National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

WHAT PROBLEM DO YOU FACE WHILE CHOOSING MERCHANDISE FROM KHADI

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How often do you purchase khadi garment

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How much you spend

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Trend analysis

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National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Trend Analysis

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Khadi Denim
Rajkot based Saurashtra Rachnatmak Samiti (SRS) introduced khadi denim in the market which is now proving to be a hit. biggest denim player in the market, Arvind Mills, has contacted them for mass-scale production of khadi denims. To popularize it , it was decided to hold fashion shows, with models walking on the ramp, wearing new khadi products, including khadi denim.

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

 An enterprising designer took the khadi denim concept to Paris textile show, which aroused international interest in the product. Under the special scheme of SFURTI (Scheme of Fund for Regeneration of Traditional Industries) launched by KVIC, they had set up a special centre at Limbdi for development of new varieties of khadi.

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Khadi Blue Denim Jeans

-first blended fabric denim Jeans. Premium Denim with Khadi like slub structures coming from the warp. These Jeans will keep you warmer than the normal Jeans you wear. This denim is strong and soft. New age denim made of Cotton and Polyester blend. Around 13.5 Oz Heavy Denim, soft feel. Each piece is individually cut from rolls of denim fabric and stitched accordingy. Washed at high temperatures to give complete shrinkage and faded look. Leather labels. 5 Pocket style. Metal Buttons and Rivets Reinforced.
National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Conclusion
There is no shortage of budget from government of India for revival of this product All we need is a proper organization of the governing body Also required is a proper channelizing of funds and a continuous audit to insure its reliability With Proper marketing Khadi has potential to reach new and unscaled heights

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna