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What is TESTING ?
Testing ensures that a product meets the buyers contractual requirements Fitness for purpose or intended use It ensures that the product meets the legal and regulatory criteria of the country of Import.
at any point
textile merchandise ,
LIMITS
any
Customer Liability
Above all
Testing
1
3
PROCESS
not
2
4
an
ACTIVITY
Testing Standards
Country
U.S.A. Canada Australia Japan Germany U.K. Europe India International
Standard
AATCC, ASTM CAN AS JIS DIN BS EN IS ISO
AATCC - American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials ISO - International Organization for Standardization BS - British standards DIN - Deutsches Institut fur Normung CAN - Canadian Norms JIS - Japanese Industrial Standards EN - European Norms
Sample Conditioning
moisture content in test sample & ensures reliable results
controls the
Equipment
Right Selection of Equipment
Is essential for performing the tests based on testing method & country of destination
Instrument Calibration
needs to be done periodically. It is essential for
of testing machine
optimum performance
& Accuracy of
results
Result Evaluation
assessment by trained color technologists
Involves
&
experts
in
Dark Room
Accreditation
Recognition
by International and National Technical bodies, for quality systems and processes.
National Accreditation Board for Testing and Calibration Laboratories
What is TESTING ?
Testing ensures that a product meets the buyers contractual requirements Fitness for purpose or intended use It ensures that the product meets the legal and regulatory criteria of the country of Import.
Antibacterial, Stain Release etc Better comfort Moisture management Wrinkle Free - Easy Care
Safety
To avoid potential hazards for the user which become apparent on everyday use, especially the children Small Part Sharp points and edges Button, Snap etc.: pull test Drawstring, Tie etc.
Filling material like Pellets in bean bags ( due to seam failure or malfunctioning of zipper lock system) Swallowing Small parts like buttons or embellishments
Accidentally left in filling material of cushions etc. Metallic accessories like zippers or buttons
In response to ever changing governmental regulation, regulatory testing is essential to minimize risk and protect the interest of both manufacturers and consumers.
Legality Issues
Fiber Identification Most countries importing
apparel and soft home furnishing products require fibre identification labels that indicate the fibre type and percentage of fibre components. Some countries even use fibre composition to classify quota categories. Different fibers have different import duty structure. Purpose to protect both consumers and producers from deceptive advertising and mislabeling of textiles and clothing.
Strength
96% Wool
4% Nylon
Legality Issues
Care Label Instructions Many countries have
mandatory or voluntary standards for care label instructions that apply to apparel or soft home furnishing products.
Reasonable Basis You must have proof or testing certificate that the method recommended is the best method for that garment. Dry Clean Only means washing will damage the garment.
Washing Method & Temperature Washing Cycle (Normal, Gentle, etc.) Bleach Instruction Drying Method & Temperature Ironing Instruction Warnings if necessary
Permanently Attach Legible during useful life of garment Written in English or other language Appropriate Care Symbols
Flammability Testing
For apparel, it is especially important that the materials used are in compliance with the flammability regulations. In particular, adult apparel and childrens sleepwear have specific requirements that must be acceptable before importing or selling a product. Also important to follow are the regulations for curtains, upholstery, rugs and carpets. Hats, gloves, Footwear are exempted
1.
2.
3.
4.
Eco-Friendly Textiles
1.
The trend of green consumerism has been extended to textile and apparel products.
Major European and USA textile product buyers have responded to this public awareness by viewing their textile products from an ecological viewpoint and are establishing relevant requirements. Eco-Testing targets environmental protection and/or consumer health and safety. Besides Governmental control there are other Consumer Protection activities from NonGovernmental Organizations (NGOs), especially in Germany and other EU countries
2.
3.
4.
THINK GREEN
Banned Substances
Formaldehyde pH Value Heavy Metals Pesticides Azo Dyes Allergenic Disperse dyes Carcinogenic dyes Nickel in accessories Chromium VI Cadmium Phthalates Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) Chlorinated Phenols Pentachlorophenol (PCP) Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) Polychlorinated Biphenyls (PCB) Organotin Compounds
THINK GREEN
Ph Value High Alkaline
Ph
Skin Irritation
Respiratory Troubles, Allergies Skin Inflammation Cancer Inducing Cancer Inducing Allergic Reactions
Formaldehyde Content
Optical Brightners
Softening Agents consumption Nickle in Jewellery Cancer
Skin Diseases
Skin Allergies Increase water Skin irritation/ Skin
Now, lets look at Some Basic Tests done on Apparels & Textiles
Colourfastness Tests
Colourfastness to Washing
You must have observed that the fabric losses colour resulting from detergent solution & abrasive action during hand or machine washing. One garment do stains other garments when washed together.
Change in colour and staining of adjacent fabrics are assessed in this test. Test Method: ISO 105 C06
Laundering machine : Laundrometer Stainless steel canister Stainless steel balls Teflon fluorocarbon gaskets Detergents Multifibre strip/ Cotton adjacent fabric Scales for rating test results
The assessment is being done using grey scales by Visually comparing the difference in colour or contrast between the untreated and treated specimens with the differences represented by the scale. Visually comparing the difference in colour or the
Colorfastness to Rubbing
A girl wearing blue embroidered skirt sits in car having white seat upholstery. And when she leaves the car the seat covers are stained blue. The reason is transfer of colourant from the surface of a colored yarn or fabric to another surface or adjacent area of the same fabric principally by rubbing.
Perspirometer Multifibre Test fabric (0.8cm, unfused). Balance with weighing accuracy +/- 0.001 g. Drying Oven Grey scale for staining, Grey scale for color
Colourfastness to Perspiration
Human perspiration is
acidic/alkaline in nature which
Perspirometer Multifibre Test fabric (0.8cm, unfused). Balance with weighing accuracy +/- 0.001 g. Drying Oven Grey scale for staining, Grey scale for color
Colorfastness to Perspiration
A specimen of coloured
textile in contact with other fiber materials (multifibre) is wet out in simulated perspiration solution, and then subjected to a fixed mechanical pressure and temperature for defined time. The specimen is then dried and evaluated for
Dimensional Stability
Did you ever have a sweatshirt that shrunk? Is it
now above your waist. How about a pair of jeans that got real tight after the first washing and shorter on the length.
A textile that can maintain it's original shape after use and care is said to be dimensionally stable. . Test method: ISO 5077/6330
This test method is intended for the determination of dimensional changes in woven & knit fabrics / garments, when subjected to repeated automatic laundering procedures commonly used at home. The dimensional changes of textile specimen subjected to washing are measured using pair of bench marks applied to the fabric before washing.
Automatic washing machine Automatic tumble dryers Conditioning and drying racks Facility for drip drying and line drying Detergent Ballast Indelible ink marking pen Measuring tape or rule Weighing balance
Important bench mark locations for different garments Lengths, Shirt - Collar, Collar Band, Body Lengths, Sleeve
Width at chest and Cuffs
Trousers - Front rise, Back rise, Inseams, Outseams, Waist and Seat Pajama Top - Lengths, Sleeves, Hem and Chest
After sample marking, weigh the sample and enough ballast to make required load. Select specified water level or wash program as per instructions provided. Add detergent as specified. Add test specimen and ballast to machine. Set the selected washing program. Dry the sample as per instructions. Condition the sample for min 4 h in
Tensile Strength
This test is used for determining the breaking strength and elongation of most textile fabrics.
Breaking force - the maximum force applied to a material carried to rupture. Test Conducted on CRE Type Machine like INSTRON ( CRE is Constant Rate of Extension)
Seam Slippage
Test Method: BS 3320
This test method is used to determine the resistance to slippage of filling yarns over warp yarns , or warp yarns over filling yarns, using a standard seam. It is used as an indication of the tendency of yarns to slip at a seam when stress is applied.
The result is that the yarns pull out but the thread and the stitch doesn't
STB: Sewing threads break, FTS: Fabric Tears at Seam, TPO: Threads pull out, FTJ: Fabric Tears at Jaw, FT: Fabric Tears
Seam Strength
This test method is used to determine the seam maximum force of sewn seams when the force is applied perpendicularly to the seam. The test applies to the standard seam applied to fabric samples or the Production seam as received in finished Test Method: ISO 13935 - 2 garments. This test does not predict actual wear performance of the seam since wear life depends on additional factors in addition
Bursting Strength
Bursting Strength - force which is applied at right angles to the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions, which will result in the rupture of a textile. This test is used to determine the resistance of textile materials to bursting using Hydraulic Diaphragm Test Method: ISO 13938-1 bursting tester
Machine Used
The area of sample of fabric to test is clamped over an elastic diaphragm by means of a flat annular clamping ring, and an increasing fluid pressure is applied to the
Pilling
Pills - we've all had them, we've all done battle with them. Pills are those tenacious little fuzz balls that sometimes appear on our garments.
Pilling
Pilling is a process of formation of fiber balls because of entanglement of surface fibres during wear. The propensity of pilling is determined by the rates of following parallel processes: - fibre entanglement leading to pill formation; - development of more surface fibre; - fibre and pill wear off. Fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and pilling is determined on Martindale Pilling Tester Test Method ISO 12945 -2
Thank You