ALYSON SKIRT

Level: Medium | Time: 2-3 Hour | Pages: 21

A paper bag skirt with a belt tie, invisible zipper in the back, front pleats
and back darts.

Copyright 2014 Spitupandstilettos.com All Rights Reserved

Size Chart

(1) BUST: Measure around the fullest part of your bust and keep the measuring
tape parallel to the floor.

(2) WAIST: Measure around the smallest part of your waist.

(3) HIP: Measure around the fullest part of your hip and keep the measuring tape
parallel to the floor.

Supplies Tools
• Fabric • Fabric scissors
• Interfacing • Pins
• Hand needle • Bodkin
• Polyester thread • Chalk or marking pen
• 10” Invisible zipper • Tape (for piecing pattern)
• Paper scissors (to cut pattern)

Fabric
This skirt can be made from a variety of woven fabric, from a cotton brocade to a light weight shirting. Any silk or sheer
fabric will make this an advanced level sewing project.
Fabric Usage
45” or 60” WIDE

For 45” or 60” wide fabric, you will need 1 3/4 yards of fabric for all sizes. If using a stripe or plaid fabric, you will
need an extra 1/2 to 1 yard. Below is the layout guide. Cut the Front and Back pieces first, then fold the fabric in half
horizontally and cut the Waistband.
folded edge
4
1 2

BELT
3
INTERFACING

You will need 1 yard of interfacing. To have the most accurate fit, cut out the main pieces then lay them on top of the
interfacing and cut from there. By cutting out your interfacing pieces this way, you guarantee they are the same size.
Attach the interfacing to it’s corresponding piece.

BELT

The belt is not included in the pattern pieces. Cut one strip of fabric 60” long by 2 3/4” wide for all sizes. The belt is
shown in the layout guide.

Pattern Key

GRAIN-LINE
This red arrow indicates your grain-line, which you should align with the grain of your fabric. Don’t know what grain-line
or grain is? Let us explain. When fabric is made it is woven with threads that go in two different directions. Lengthwise,
which spans the cut edges and crosswise, which spans the selvage edges (the selvage is the band of tightly woven
fabric that runs up either side). The lengthwise direction is the grain of your fabric and what you use to line up your
grain-line.

FOLD LINE
This means you line up the edge with the folded edge of your fabric before you cut. Your fold-line will typically be on the
grain-line, however the waistband pattern piece is cut cross grain.
First Things First

FIND YOUR SIZE 3” x 3”

ALYSON SKIRT

WAISTBAND (3)
Using the size chart on the previous page, find your size. If you TEST SQUARE
Measure this square to
make sure your scale is correct.
You will make one funky garment
if its not- heads up!
Sizes 0-18
Fabric: Cut 1 on Fold
Interfacing: Cut 1 using main
fabric piece as template.
3/8” SEAM ALLOWANCE

are in between, you can draw a new pattern line between the ALYSON SKIRT

Belt loop (4)

Fabric: Cut 2

two sizes or simply choose the larger size.

3/8” SEAM ALLOWANCE

PLEATS
PLEATS

PIECE TOGETHER YOUR PATTERN ALYSON SKIRT

FRONT (1)
A1

A1
A1

A1
A2

A2
A2

A2
A3

A3
A3

A3
Starting from the
apex strike in

At the end of these instructions, you will find your PDF pattern.
dart legs to the
correct set of notches
Sizes 0-18
Fabric: Cut 1 on Fold
3/8” SEAM ALLOWANCE
3/4” HEM ALLOWANCE

On the first page, there is a 2” x 2” test square. Measure this 0

2
4
6
ALYSON SKIRT

BACK (2)
Sizes 0-18

square with a ruler to verify that the pattern is the correct size

CENTER FRONT
Fabric: Cut 2
8
3/8” SEAM ALLOWANCE
10
3/4” HEM ALLOWANCE
12
14
16 0

and then cut out each 7” x 9.5” rectangle. Tape the pieces
18 2
4
6
8
10
12

together matching the colors/letters/numbers, then cut out your

14
16
18
B1 B1 B2 B2 B3 B3

pattern size.
B1 B1 B2 B2 B3 B3

LAY OUT YOUR PATTERN

Using the fabric layout in the Fabric Usage section as a guide,
lay out your pattern pieces. Use either pins or pattern weights C1 C1 C2 C2 C3 C3

(we like the latter option) to keep your pattern in place. Pay C1 C1 C2 C2 C3 C3

attention to the fabric grain-line and, if using a plaid or stripe

fabric, make sure to line up the stripes.

TRACE THE PATTERN

Trace your pattern edges onto your fabric by using chalk,
pencil, or carbon paper. Transfer all markings, notches, darts
and center front and back lines. Trust us. It’s really no fun to
have to come back and mark them later.

CUT IT OUT
You know that pattern tracing you just did? Well, cut along
your marking lines.

SEAM ALLOWANCE
This pattern includes 3/8” seam allowances unless otherwise
stated. Don’t worry, we will let you know in the instructions
when you’re sewing a piece with a different seam allowance.

If this is your first time making this pattern, it’s always a good idea to make a muslin to test the fit and make sure it
flatters your body type. A muslin also lets you know what areas need to be altered. For a quick alteration guide
or if you have any fit questions, go to Spitupandstilettos.com
Instructions Page 1

Darts
1. Stitch closed the BACK darts by folding the dart in
half and stitching along the dart leg starting from the
side seam.

2. Sew off at the apex and knot together the thread

ends, then clip. Press the dart away from center back.

Side Seams
1. With FRONT and BACK pieces right sides together
sew your side seams using 3/8” seam allowance.

2. Press open and finish if you would like.

Waistband
1. Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of your
WAISTBAND.

2. Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and

have one edge extend 1/4” longer.

3. Line up the shorter edge along the FRONT and

BACK skirt waistline, right sides together. Pin if needed.
Have the WAISTBAND end at the open middle back
seam.

4. Stitch along your waistline to attach pieces together

and press the seam allowance up. We will finish the
waistband in another step.
Instructions Page 2

Back Seam
1. With BACK pieces right sides together, stitch closed
your back seam up to the zipper mark.

2. Baste stitch closed the remainder of the seam, from

the zipper notch to the waistband. Press seam open
and if finishing your seams with pinking shears, do so
now.. Don’t sew the waistband,

3. Line up your invisible zipper on the seam, with the

right side down toward the skirt. The zipper tops should
be exactly;y lined up with the top of the WAISTBAND.
Pin in place on the seam allowance only.

4. Using an invisible zipper foot, stitch either side of your

zipper to attach.

5. Use a seam ripper to remove the basting stitches and

open your zipper. Press flat and finish seam edges if
you’d like.
Instructions Page 3

Waistband Continued
NOTE: Stitching in the ditch is when you sew along an
existing seam, to make your stitching less visible.

1. Press under the other edge of the WAISTBAND by

3/8”.

2. Pin in place along the inside of the skirt, hiding the

stitch line and seam allowance. The zipper top should
be tucked into the WAISTBAND.

3. Stitch in the ditch along the face side of the garment,

catching the seam allowance underneath.

4. Fold in the ends of your waistband and hand stitch

closed. Make sure to not stitch over your zipper teeth.

Pleats
1. Fold the pleats together along the waist toward
center front. Pin in place.

2. Stitch in the ditch to secure the pleats.

Instructions Page 4

Belt Loops
1. Fold both long edges of the BELT LOOP 1/4” and
press.

2. Fold in half lengthwise and press flat.

3. Edge-stitch along the folded edges and zig-zag

stitch along the top edges.

4. Press under the top edges by 1/4”

5. Pin your BELT LOOPS onto your skirt in between your

pleats, centered. Have the BELT LOOP start at the waist
seam.

6. Top stitch 1/8” from the top and bottom edge of your
belt loop to secure.

Belt
NOTE: You can sew the ends at an angle if you’d like
your belt to have pointed rather than squared ends.

1. Fold your BELT in half lengthwise, pin if needed.

2. Stitch closed the open and side seams of your BELT

using a 3/8” seam allowance. Leave a 2” section open
in the middle.

3. Trim down your seam allowance to 1/4” and turn

your BELT right side out.

4. Press the open seam allowance inside.

5. Top-stitch the perimeter of your belt to close the

opening.
Instructions Page 5

Hem
1. We are working with a 3/4” hem allowance, so press
your hem up 3/8” then another 3/8” and pin.

2. Stitch along the folded hem edge to secure.

TIDBIT: Working with a slippery fabric or can’t get the

seam allowance to stay folded up? You may need
to do a rolled hem instead. View Sewloft.com to view
alternative hem methods.

Guess who has a brand

Guess who new
has skirt? Hopefully
a brand new you but if Hopefully
skirt? you find anything wrongifwith
you but youthis pattern,
find let us know and
anything
we will give you a free month of membership as a thank you.
wrong with this pattern, please let me know at lauren@spitupandstilettos.com
 2” x 2”
TEST SQUARE
Measure this square to
make sure your scale is correct.
You will make one funky garment
if its not- heads up!

PLEATS

A1
 ALYSON SKIRT

Waistband (3)
Sizes 0-18
Fabric: Cut 1 on Fold
Interfacing: Cut 1 Using Main
Fabric Piece as Template
3/8” SEAM ALLOWANCE

PLEATS

A1 A2
A2 A3
 ALYSON SKIRT

Belt Loop (4)

Fabric: Cut 2
3/8” SEAM ALLOWANCE

A3
 A1

ALYSON SKIRT

Front (1)
Sizes 0-18
Fabric: Cut 1 on Fold
3/8” SEAM ALLOWANCE
3/4” HEM ALLOWANCE

0
2
4
CENTER FRONT

6
8
10
12
14
16
18

B1
A1 A2

B1 B2
A2 A3

B2 B3
A3

Starting from the apex strike in

dart legs to the correct set of
notches

Zipper Notch
ALYSON SKIRT

Back (2)
Sizes 0-18
Fabric: Cut 2
3/8” SEAM ALLOWANCE
3/4” HEM ALLOWANCE

0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
B3
B1
B1 B2
B2 B3
B3