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Notas:
1> O design do circuito esquemático é para uma saída de 250 watts, enquanto as
fotos são do meu inversor de 1500 watts que eu construí, para aumentar o poder do
circuito, você deve adicionar mais transistores Q7 e Q8 em paralelo, cada um O par
que você adiciona aumentará sua potência em 250 watts, ex: para obter 750 watts
de energia do inversor, você precisa adicionar em paralelo 2 de Q7 e 2 de Q8 ao
design original.
2> / S: 220V) (3750w) (60VDC) (P: 120V "60-0-60" / S: 220V) (4500w) (72VDC) (P:
144V "72-0-72" / S: 220V) ( 5250w) (84VDC) (P: 168V "84-0-84" / S: 220V) *O
transformador deve ser "tocado no centro" no lado primário. ** Você pode fazer o
110v secundário se necessário. *** O transformador na imagem é um feito à medida
(48V center tapped / 220v) 2000 watts, pesos como 10 quilos. **Você pode fazer o
110v secundário se necessário. *** O transformador na imagem é um feito à medida
(48V center tapped / 220v) 2000 watts, pesos como 10 quilos. ** Você pode fazer o
110v secundário se necessário. *** O transformador na imagem é um feito à medida
(48V center tapped / 220v) 2000 watts, pesos como 10 quilos.
6> O pino 10 do SG3524 pode ser usado para desligar automaticamente o inversor,
uma vez que uma tensão positiva é dada em vez de negativa para pin10, o SG3524
irá parar de oscilar. Isso é útil para pessoas que desejam adicionar alguma
maquiagem cosmética ao inversor como "corte de sobrecarga", "corte baixo da
bateria" ou "corte de sobreaquecimento".
8> O design não inclui um carregador de bateria, uma vez que cada pessoa estará
construindo uma versão personalizada do inversor com necessidades específicas
de energia. Se você está encomendando um transformador feito sob encomenda,
você pode pedir que tire para você um fio de saída adicional no lado primário para
dar 14v (entre o ponto 0 e este novo fio) e usá-lo para carregar uma bateria de 12v,
é claro que isso precisa Um circuito separado para controlar o corte automático de
carga. Mas, de qualquer forma, isso não é aconselhável, pois reduzirá a vida útil do
próprio transformador, já que o uso como um carregador torturará a camada de
revestimento de esmalte dos fios de cobre ao longo do tempo. De qualquer forma ...
SIM pode ser feito para reduzir o custo.
12> Eu mportante: se você estiver construindo um design grande que use mais de
24VDC como fonte de energia, certifique-se de não fornecer o circuito do driver com
mais de 24v no máximo. (EX: Se você tiver 4 baterias 4x12 = 48v, conecte a
alimentação v + do circuito do driver ao terminal da segunda bateria (+) com um fio
fino de 1 mm que é mais do que suficiente. (Isso fornece o circuito do driver com +
24v enquanto Fornece o transformador de potência com + 48v) "veja o exemplo de
imagem das baterias"
13> "Opcional": as baterias do Ciclo Profundo são a sua melhor escolha, considere-
as para obter melhores resultados.
14> Seja cauteloso ao construir este circuito, envolve uma alta tensão que é letal ,
qualquer parte que você tocar quando o circuito estiver LIGADO poderia dar-lhe
uma Sacudida dolorosa e desagradável, especialmente os dissipadores de calor,
nunca os toque quando o circuito está ligado para ver se os transistores estão
quentes! Eu comi-o várias vezes :)
15> O "aviso de baixa tensão" opcional já está incorporado no layout PCB, você
pode ignorá-lo e não instalar seus componentes se você não precisar dele. Não
afeta a funcionalidade do circuito principal, soa apenas uma campainha.
If you like the work and intend to build the circuit don't forget to click on the "I made it" button so I know how
many people benefit from the design, Thanks.
Notes:
1> The schematic circuit design is for a 250 watt output, while the pics are of my 1500 watts inverter that i
built, to increase the power of the circuit you have to add more of the Q7 and Q8 transistors in parallel,
each pair you add will increase your power by 250 watts, ex: to get 750 watts of power from the inverter
you need to add in parallel 2 of Q7 and 2 of Q8 to the original design.
2> If you increase the power transistors you have to enlarge the T2 transformer to match the new needs,
the circuit's transformer is rated 25 amps to handle 250 watts of 220v, for every 1 additional amp you need
on the 220v side you have to increase 10 amps on the 12v side, of course there are limits to the thickness
of the winding so if you need more than 750 watts i recommend that you use a 24VDC supply instead of 12
volts:
3> R1 is to set the PWM duty cycle to 220v. Connect a voltmeter to the AC output of your inverter and vary
VR1 till the voltage reads 220V.
4> R2 is to set the frequency to 50 or 60 Hz (R2 range is between 40Hz to 75Hz), so guys that do not have
a frequency meter are advised to blindly put this variable resistor mid-way which should drop you in the
range of 50~60 Hz.
If you want you can substitute the variable resistor with a fixed resistor using the following formula: F = 1.3 /
(RxC)
in our case to get a 50Hz output we remove both the 100K and the variable 100K both from pin 6 and we
put instead a 260K fixed resistor and we leave the 0.1uF (the 104 cap) as it is, this change should give out
a fixed 50Hz as per the formula :
1.3 / (260,000 ohm x 0.0000001 farad) = 50Hz
But in reality it will not exactly give 50Hz because the 260K resistor has a specific error value margin so
does the capacitor, that's why i recommend a variable resistor so that accurate calibration can be achieved.
5> Use either tantalum or polyester film "as in pic" for the 104 caps, ceramic disc caps are heat sensitive,
they change value when hot and this in turn changes the frequency of the inverter so they are not
recommended.
6> Pin 10 of the SG3524 can be used to auto shut down the inverter, once a positive voltage is given
instead of negative to pin10, the SG3524 will stop oscillating. This is useful for persons wanting to add
some cosmetic makeup to their inverter like "overload cut-off", "low battery cut-off" or "overheating cut-off".
7> Wiring connections on the power stage side should be thick enough to handle the huge amps drain from
the batteries. I marked them with thick black lines on the schema also I included a pic so you see how thick
those wires must be. (You can make the driving circuit section on a breadboard for testing purposes
but NOT the power stage).
8> The design does not include a battery charger since each person will be building a custom version of the
inverter with specific power needs. If you are ordering a custom made transformer you can ask them to
take out for you an additional output wire on the primary side to give 14v (between point 0 and this new
wire) and use it to charge a 12v battery, of course this needs a separate circuit to control charging auto cut-
off. But anyway this is not advisable because it will shorten the life of the transformer itself since using it as
a charger will toast the enamel coating layer of the copper wires over time. Anyway .. YES can be done to
reduce cost.
9> A cooling fan will be needed to reduce heat off the heat sinks and transformer, i recommend getting a
220v fan and connecting it to the output T2 transformer, when you power up the circuit the fan will start this
will always give you a simple way to know that 220v is present and everything is OK.. You can use a
computer's old power supply fan if you like.
Note that the fan must suck air out from the inverter case and NOT blow inside, so install it the correct way
or it will be useless.
Also note how I fixed both the heat sinks and where the fan is, in a way that the fan sucks hot air from like a
channel between the 2 heat-sinks.
10> 2 circuit breakers are recommended instead of fuses, one on the DC side and one on the AC side,
depending on your design
Ex: for a 24vDC ( 1500 watts design ) put a 60Amp breaker on the DC side and a 6Amp on the AC side.
For every 1amp of 220vAC you will be draining like 8 to 10 Amps from the 12v battery, make your
calculations !
11> The 2 Heat sinks should be big enough to cool the transistors, they are separate and
should NOT touch each other. "see the pics"
12>Important: If you're building a big design that uses more than 24VDC as power source, make sure not
to supply the driver circuit with more than 24v maximum. (EX: If you have 4 batteries 4x12 = 48v , connect
the v+ supply of the driver circuit to the second battery's (+) terminal with a thin 1 mm wire which is more
than enough. (This supplies the driver circuit with +24v while supplies the power transformer with +48v)
"see the batteries pic example"
13> "Optional" : Deep Cycle batteries are your best choice, consider them for best results ..
14> Be cautious when building this circuit it involves high voltage which is lethal, any part you touch when
the circuit is ON could give you a nasty painful jolt, specially the heat-sinks, never touch them when the
circuit is on to see if the transistors are hot !! I ate it several times :)
15> The optional "Low voltage warning" is already embedded in the PCB layout, you can disregard it and
not install it's components if you do not need it. It does not affect the functionality of the main circuit, it just
sounds a buzzer.
16> The Motorola 2N6277 is a durable heavy duty power transistor, it is used in many US tanks for it's
reliability but unfortunately it is a very hard to find part, instead you can substitute each 2N6277 with 2 x
2N3773 or any equivalent, and yes equivalents work too.
17> I've included an optional "Battery level indicator" circuit diagram that has 4 LEDs, you can see it
installed on the front panel of my inverter pic, it is functioning great and shows precisely how much juice the
batteries still have. I have included a small relay that is powered by the last LED to auto shutoff the inverter
once last LED is off.
Update 18-Feb-16: There are cheap readily available, professional looking Battery level indicators these
days for a couple of $, consider them in your project.
18> Also included an optional "Overload circuit", it is very easy to build and can be calibrated to the desired
overload current threshold cutoff point through the potentiometer VR1.
R1 is rated 5watts for inverters upto 1000 watts. For bigger versions of the inverter like 1000 to 3000 watts
inverters, replace R1 (1 ohm, 5watts) with (1 ohm, 17watts) which should handle loads upto 10 VA.
Make sure you install a proper relay to handle big current drains.
19> Please guys take your time to read and understand my notes, browse and read the posts and
questions asked by others because there are many useful information listed in replies. The main
reason for me not answering your question is because it has already been asked before and
answered upon.
20> It would be nice and inspiring for others if you take some photos and show us how you built
your version, any additions to the circuit are mostly welcomed to be listed here, we can all benefit
from them.
21> Please click on the "I've made it" button/icon if you did build the circuit so I know how many
people benefit from this design.
22> Testing the circuit on a breadboardwith crocodile clips or thin wires WILL NOT WORK ! You'll
get wrong voltage readings. Don't come back crying that you're getting a 150v output or so.