Tugas Kosmetik Dekoratif dan Kosmetik Medik

Teknologi Obat dan Kosmetik

Oleh:
Isni Nur Sadrina (1506675913)
Teknologi Bioproses

DEPARTEMEN TEKNIK KIMIA

FAKULTAS TEKNIK
UNIVERSITAS INDONESIA
DEPOK 2018
SOAL 1. Bahan Baku dan Bahan Kimia Macam-Macam Kosmetik Dekoratif
1) Face Powder
Face Powder yang sesuai pada umumnya mengandung partikel kering yang memiliki
ukuran partikel 0,02 hingga 200 mikron, serta 0,5 hingga 100 mikron. Bahan partikulat dapat
diwarnai atau tidak diwarnai (misalnya putih) (Brieva, H. et al., 1994). Powder yang cocok
adalah sebagai berikut:
Bismuth oxychloride, titanated mica, fumed silica, spherical silica,
polymethylmethacrylate, micronized teflon, boron nitride, acrylate polymers, aluminum
silicate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, bentonite, calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk, corn
starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth, glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin,
magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium
oxide, magnesium silicate, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite,
microcrystaline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc
myristate, zinc neodecanoate, zinc rosinate, zinc stearate, polyethylene, alumina, attapulgite,
calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran, kaolin, nylon, silica silylate, silk powder, sericite,
soy flour, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, walnut shell powder, atau
campurannya (Brieva, H. et al., 1994).
Komponen powder juga dapat terdiri dari berbagai pigmen organik dan anorganik.
Pigmen organik pada umumnya mengandung berbagai jenis aromatik yaitu azo, indigoid,
triphenylmethane, anthraquinone, dan xanthine dye. Pigmen organik pada umumnya terdiri
dari insoluble metallic salts of certified color additives, referred to as the Lakes. Sedangkan
pigmen anorganik pada umumnya adalah iron oxides, ultramarine and chromium or chromium
hydroxide colors, dan campurannya (Brieva, H. et al., 1994).
Umumnya rasio pigmen:rasio bubuk berkisar antara 1:20 hingga 20:1. Komposisi face
powder yang paling umum terdiri dari (Brieva, H. et al., 1994):
1) 0.1-60% trimethylated silica,
2) 0.1-60% of a volatile solvent having a viscosity of 0.5 to 100 centipoise at 25° C., and
3) 0.1-60% of a nonvolatile oil having a viscosity of 200 to 1,000,000 centipoise at 25°
C., and
4) 0.01-80% of a dry particulate matter
 2) Foundation
• Liquid Foundation
Dimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Isododecane, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone,
Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Phenyl Trimethicone, Isohexadecane, Peg-10 Dimethicone,
Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polybutene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride,
Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Talc, Propylene
Carbonate, Methicone, Parfum, Alaria Escaulenta Extract, Hydrogen Dimethicone. May
Contain (+/-): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499).
(Sumber: www.youniqueproducts.com)
• Compact Foundation
Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Lauroyl Lysine, Zinc Stearate, Ethylhexyl
Palmitate, Aqua/Water/Eau, Silica, Niacinamide, Retinyl Palmitate, Hydrolyzed Collagen,
Serica/Silk Powder/Poudre De Soie, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Palmitoyl
Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Hyaluronic Acid, Ascorbyl
Palmitate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis
Leaf Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Chamomilla Recutita
Flower Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit
Extract, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Cholesteryl Chloride,
Cholesteryl Nonanoate, Cholesteryl Oleyl Carbonate, Phenoxyethanol, Bht, [+/-: Iron Oxides
(Ci 77499, Ci 77491, Ci 77492)] (Sumber: www.itcosmetics.com).

3) Lipstick
Komposisi lipstik: 0.1-60% trimethylated silica, 0.1-60% volatile solvent, 0.1-60%
nonvolatile oil, 0.1-80% dry particulate matter, dan 0.1-40% wax (Brieva, H. et al., 1994).

4) Eye Shadow
Komposisi Eye Shadow: 0.1-20% trimethylated silica, 0.1-30% of a volatile solvent having
a viscosity of 0.5 to 100 centipoise at 25° C., 0.1-40% nonvolatile oil, 0.1-60% dry particulate
matter having a particle size of 0.02 to 100 microns (Brieva, H. et al., 1994).
 5) Eyebrow Pencil
Komposisi Eyebrow Pencil: Dimethicone, Glycerin, Talc, Ozokerite, Polysorbate 60,
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, PEG-6 Sorbitan Stearate, Fragrance, Color Additives
(Sumber: www.cosmeticsinfo.org).

6) Mascara
Komposisi mascara: 0.1-15% trimethylated silica, 0.1-40% of a volatile solvent having a
viscosity of 0.5 to 350 centipoise at 25° C., 0.1-10% of a nonvolatile oil, 0.1-30% of a dry
particulate matter, 0.1-20% film former, 0.1-30% wax, and 0.1-10% emulsifier (Brieva, H. et
al., 1994).

7) Hand and Body Lotion

Komposisi Hand and Body Lotion: Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol,
Lanolin, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate,
Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Mineral Oil, Allantoin, Fragrance, Botanical Ingredients, Color
Additives, dan Water (Sumber: www.cosmeticsinfo.org).

SOAL 2. Bahan Baku dan Bahan Kimia Macam-Macam Cosmedics

1) Dry Skin (Kulit Kering)
Komposisi Cosmedics for Dry and Sensitive Skin: Magnesium chloride, Calcium
ascorbate, Lactobacillus paracasei (CNCM I-2116), Bifido bacterium longum (CNCM I-2170),
Magnesium gluconate, Calcium Linoleate, Blackcurrant pips oil, Evening primrose oil, Borage
oil, Antioxidant, Isopropanol, Glycerol stearate, Cetylstearylic alcohol/oxyethylenated,
cetylstearylic alcohol with 33 mols OE (Sinnowax AO sold by the Henkel company), Cetylic
alcohol, Dimethicone (DC 200 Fluid sold by the Dow Corning company), Petroleum jelly oil,
Isopropyl Myristate (Estol IPM 1514 sold by Unichema) Antioxidant, Glycerin, Preservative,
dan Water. (Breton L. et al., 2005)

2) Aging
Komposisi Cosmedics for Aging Skin: Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract
0.10% skin calmer, Fragrance 0.10% perfume, Stearic Acid 0.10% fragrance; surfactant -
cleansing & emulsifying agent, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 0.10% skin
conditioner, Triethylene Glycol 0.10% preservative, Allantoin 0.08% skin conditioner; skin
protectant, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil 0.08% skin conditioner, Rosa Canina
Fruit Oil 0.08% skin conditioner, Algae (Dunaliella) Extract 0.06% humectant, Camellia
Sinensis Leaf Extract 0.06% antioxidant; fragrance; skin conditioner; ultraviolet light
absorber, Macadamia Ternifolia Oil 0.05% skin conditioner, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E)
0.04% antioxidant; skin conditioner, Hyaluronic Acid 0.03% skin conditioner; viscosity
increasing agent (Zabari E., 2013).

3) Acne
Komposisi Cosmedics for Acne Skin: 0.01-50.00% plant oil, vegetable oil base 0.01% -
10.00%, 0.00-6.00% emulsifier, from 0.01 to 10.0% anti-irritants, antioxidants 0.01-0.20%,
0-4.00% thickener, dan a preservative 0.10 0.80% deionized water remainder (Hezhong Y. et
al., 2009).

4) Hyperpigmentation
Komposisi Cosmedics for reduce Dark Spot: Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Juice) Leaf Extract,
Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake), Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Extract, Tricholoma
Matsutake (Matsutake Mushroom) Extract, Loofah Cylindrica (Vegetable Cellulose), Citrus
Aurantifolia (Lime) Fruit Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C), Glycyrrhiza Glabra
(Licorice) Root Extract, Papain (Papaya Papain) Extract, Carrageenan (Chondrus Crispus),
Asparagopsis Armata (Red Algae) Extract, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum,
dan Lonicera Caprifolium (Japanese Honeysuckle) Extract (Sumber:
www.100percentpure.com).

5) Hair Loss (Rambut Rontok)

Komposisi Cosmedics for hair loss prevention: 1 to 10% by weight of stearic acid, 1 to 8%
by weight of cetanol, 1 to 15% by weight of a surfactant, 1 to 15% by weight of liquid paraffin,
1 to 10% by weight of propylene glycol, 1 to 10% by weight of glycerin, 0.5 to 3% by weight
of silicone oil, 1 to 10% by weight of silk amino acid powder, 1 to 10% by weight of morinda
citrifolia fruit juice, 1 to 20% by weight of a herb medicine extract containing ginseng, angelica
gigas, acoruscalamus, ganoderma lucidum, sophorae radix, juniper, licorice, cnidium
officinale, dermis, ocanthopanax, angelica dahurica, opuntia ficus-indica, mung bean, green
tea leaves, and leaves of quercus dentatas, dan 20 to 80% by weight of purified water (Jade D.
et al., 2010).
SOAL 3. Ringkasan Vehicle System
The Delivery System Ingredients berfungsi sebagai kendaraan yang dirancang untuk
menstabilkan bahan aktif yang mudah menguap. Teknologi canggih diterapkan untuk
meningkatkan fungsi dan stabilitas bahan-bahan ini. Sistem enkapsulasi yang aktif
memungkinkan pelepasan terkontrol dengan kapasitas penyerapan kulit yang baik (Sumber:
www.riddhienterprises.com).
The Delivery System banyak digunakan dalam produk kosmetik. Antioksidan alami
memberikan manfaat kesehatan seperti anti-penuaan, anti-inflamasi, anti-karsinogenik, dan
sifat anti-mikroba yang mempotensiasi penggunaannya dalam produk kosmetik. Selain itu,
antioksidan alami juga dapat digunakan sebagai pengawet karena dapat menghindari oksidasi
lipid yang biasanya terjadi pada produk kosmetik. Namun, antioksidan memiliki masalah
stabilitas dan kesulitan dalam melintasi penghalang transdermal (Costa R. et al., 2017).
The Delivery System dapat digunakan untuk melindungi bahan aktif yang sensitif dari
degradasi, serta untuk memberikan target dan pelepasan terkontrol. Beberapa jenis sistem
pengiriman (misalnya liposom, niosom, transferomes, nanopartikel lipid, mikropartikel
polimerik dan nanopartikel) telah digunakan dalam formulasi kosmetik. Penggunaan The
Delivery System dapat meningkatkan penetrasi antioksidan. Interaksi kulit dengan The Delivery
System yang berbeda sangat bergantung pada ukuran, fleksibilitas, dan komposisinya. Selain
itu, The Delivery System harus dengan mudah dimasukkan ke dalam formulasi kosmetik yang
mengarah ke produk seragam akhir yakni produk yang menarik bagi pelanggan (Costa R. et
al., 2017).

Gambar 1. Delivery systems for cosmetics

(Sumber: Costa R. et al., 2017)
 DAFTAR PUSTAKA
Breton L. et al., 2005, Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition for prevention and/or
treatment of sensitive or dry skin, US Patent, No. 20090232785A1.
Brieva, H. et al., 1994, Cosmetic Compositions, US Patent, No. 5985298A.
Costa R. et al,. 2017. Delivery systems for cosmetics - From manufacturing to the skin of
natural antioxidants. Vol.322 (402-416).
Hezhong Y. et al., 2009, Acne treatment cosmetic composition, CN Patent, No.
101664371A.
Jade D. et al., 2010, Shampoo containing a composition for hair loss prevention and hair
growth stimulation using herb medicines, WO Patent, No. 2011093656A3.
Zabari E., 2013, Skin anti-aging cosmetic composition, WO Patent, No. 2014115137A1.
100% Pure, 2018, Dark Spot Remover, [ONLINE],
(https://www.100percentpure.com/products/dark-spot-remover, diakses pada tanggal 28 April
2018).
Cosmetics Info, 2018, [ONLINE], (http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/products/body-and-
hand-creams-and-lotions, diakses pada tanggal 28 April 2018)
Cosmetics Info, 2018, [ONLINE], (http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/products/eyebrow-
pencil, diakses pada tanggal 28 April 2018)
It Cosmetics, 2018, Celebration Foundation, [ONLINE],
(https://www.itcosmetics.com/award-winners/celebration-foundation/ITC_0006.html, diakses
pada tanggal 28 April 2018).
Riddhi Enterprises, 2018, Cosmetics Delivery Systems, [ONLINE],
(http://www.riddhienterprises.com/delivery-systems.html, diakses pada tanggal 28 April
2018).
Younique, 2018, Touch Mineral Liquid Foundation, [ONLINE],
(https://www.youniqueproducts.com/products/view/US-21403-00#.WuP-i9RubIU, diakses
pada tanggal 28 April 2018)