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CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY

Por MacNite (/member/MacNite/) no workshop (/workshop/) > Impressão 3D (/workshop/3d-printing/projects/)
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Eu queria construir uma impressora realmente confiável que estivesse pronta para o mecanismo
de troca de ferramentas E3D, quando finalmente fosse liberado. Nesta fase, esta é apenas uma
grande máquina CoreXY porque o trocador de ferramentas E3D ainda não foi lançado. Também
tenho dúvidas de que o mecanismo de fixação / troca de ferramentas possa gerar força
suficiente para segurar uma extrusora de acionamento direto com um stepper Nema 17 de
tamanho completo confiável. A meu pedido, o E3D disse-me que uma cabeça de ferramenta de
acionamento direto deveria funcionar. Isso tem que ser testado.

A princípio, planejei construir um Hypercube / Hypercube Evolution, mas logo descobri que o
design não era rígido o suficiente para a área de construção que eu pretendia.

Então comecei a otimizar todas as peças e troquei todas as guias lineares por trilhos lineares da
Hiwin (MGN9 e MGN12). Eu também tentei trilhos e rolamentos da IGUS, mas eles não
funcionaram para mim (muito jogo). Ao fazer isso, também adicionei um "compartimento
eletrônico" na parte traseira usando extrusão de alumínio 3060.
 A impressora
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) possui uma área construída de aproximadamente 500x500x500mm. O eixo y é w
otimizado para permitir espaço para o mecanismo de troca de ferramentas. Incluí uma planilha
Excel para que você possa calcular o comprimento necessário, caso pretenda uma versão menor
ou maior.

Optei por usar um sistema de acionamento direto, logo na primeira iteração (que era mais como
um Hypercube), tentei usar uma configuração de bowden que não deu certo. Eu obstruía o
tempo todo e remontava o hotend várias vezes porque pensei que era calor ou uma lacuna
entre o bico e o quebra-quebra. Mas depois de amarrar meu titã E3D ao x-carriage, tudo correu
bem. Obviamente, o Hypercube não é adequado para montar uma extrusora pesada no carro x
em uma impressora deste tamanho.

ZBG_Drucker_V2.stl (https://content.instructables.com/FQT/8N4S/JQQYKREF/FQT8N4SJQQYKREF.stl)
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ZBG_Drucker_V2.stp (https://content.instructables.com/F5D/AX4A/JQQYKQAK/F5DAX4AJQQYKQAK.stp)
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SourceFiles_Inventor.rar (https://content.instructables.com/FEW/1G5F/JT91OCSU/FEW1G5FJT91OCSU.rar)
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Passo 1: Lista de Peças - BOM

hardware
● 3030 (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Aluprofile/30-B-Typ-Nut-8/Aluprofil-30x30-B-Typ-Nut-
8::432.html) (número e comprimento, consulte o Excel)
● 2020 (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Aluprofile/20-B-Typ-Nut-6/Aluprofil-20x20-B-Typ-Nut-
6::1.html) (número e comprimento ver excel)
● 2 trilhos Hiwin MGN12 (comprimento ver excel)
● 2 carruagens Hiwin MGN12H
● 1x trilho Hiwin MGN9 (comprimento ver excel)
● 1x carruagem Hiwin MGN9c
● 4 hastes de 12 mm (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Dynamik-
Lineareinheiten/Praezisionswellen/Stahl-Praezisionswellen/Praezisionswelle-Stahl-%D8-
 12mm::6496.html)
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) (comprimento consulte o Excel) w
● 30x 3030 Suporte de canto, incl. fixações (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Nutprofil-
Zubehoer/Zubehoer-30-B-Typ-Nut-8/Winkel-30-B-Typ-Nut-8::1057.html)
● 2x Conector de canto 3030, incl. parafusos sem cabeça
(https://www.motedis.com/shop/Nutprofil-Zubehoer/Zubehoer-30-B-Typ-Nut-8/Innenwinkel-
Zinkdruckguss-30-B-Typ-Nut-8-90G::859.html)
● Conector 2x Slot 8 T-Matik (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Nutprofil-Zubehoer/Zubehoer-
30-B-Typ-Nut-8/T-Matik-Verbinder-wahlweise-mit-BS-30-B-Typ-Nut-8::762.html)
● 4x 2020 grandes suportes de canto (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Nutprofil-
Zubehoer/Zubehoer-20-B-Typ-Nut-6/Verbinder-Winkel-Nut-6-B-Typ/Winkel-20x40-B-Typ-Nut-
6::554.html)
● 100x Porca T-Slot, Slot8, M5 (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Nutprofil-Zubehoer/Zubehoer-
30-B-Typ-Nut-8/Hammermutter-B-Typ-Nut-8-M5::4214.html)
● 50x Porca T-Slot, Slot 8, M3
● 40x Porca T-Slot, Slot6, M5 (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Nutprofil-Zubehoer/Zubehoer-
20-B-Typ-Nut-6/Nutensteine-Gewindeplatten-Nut-6-B-Typ/Hammermutter-B-Typ-Nut-6-
M5::7145.html)
● Porca T-Slot (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Nutprofil-Zubehoer/Zubehoer-20-B-Typ-Nut-
6/Nutensteine-Gewindeplatten-Nut-6-B-Typ/Hammermutter-B-Typ-Nut-6-M3::4752.html) 30x
, Slot 6, M3 (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Nutprofil-Zubehoer/Zubehoer-20-B-Typ-Nut-
6/Nutensteine-Gewindeplatten-Nut-6-B-Typ/Hammermutter-B-Typ-Nut-6-M3::4752.html)
● 4x LMK12LUU
● 2x GT2 Idler, 16 dentes, furo 3mm, sem dentes
● 6x GT2 Idler, 16 dentes, furo 3mm, com dentes
● 2 rodas motrizes GT2, 16 dentes, furo 5mm (para Nema 17)
● Cinto GT2
● 2x Fuso TR10x2 (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Dynamik-
Lineareinheiten/Trapezgewindespindel-Zubehoer/Trapezgewindespindel/Stahl-
Trapezgewindespindel/Trapezgewindespindel-RPTS-rechts-TR-10x2-
L%3D1000mm::3954.html) (comprimento ver excel)
 ● 2x Porca do
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) Eixo (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Dynamik- w
Lineareinheiten/Trapezgewindespindel-Zubehoer/Anti-Backlash-Mutter/Anti-backlash-Ze-
dex-Mutter-TR-10x2::5839.html)
● 2 rolamentos 6700 2RS (para montagem no fuso superior)
● Acoplamento 5mm a 10mm (para fuso)
● 5x Nema 17 (comprimento do corpo <40mm)
● Placa de Construção, t>8mm (comprimento ver excel)
● Conector IEC com fusível
● amortecedor de silicone ou mola para cama
● corrente de arrasto para eixo z / leito aquecido (largura de 20 mm)
● corrente de arrasto para x/y-gantry
● Conector MPX de 6 pinos (1 conjunto macho+fêmea para cada cabeça de ferramenta)
● Conector XT30 (1 conjunto macho+fêmea para cada cabeçote)

Eletrônicos
● Dueto WiFi (https://e3d-online.com/duet-wifi-electronic-controller-card)
● opcional: Duex (para mais motores extrusores, saída servo ou sensor indutivo 5V)
(https://e3d-online.com/duex-expansion-board)
● E3D V6 com dissipador de calor roscado (https://e3d-online.com/v6-threaded-heatsink)
● E3D Titan, Bowden (https://e3d-online.com/titan-extruder) (será usado como extrusor direto,
mas não usaremos o groove mount)
● Tubo PTFE
● Sonda IR (https://e3d-online.com/duet-differential-height-sensor-board-with-cable-kit) ou
sensor indutivo de 5V
● Meanwell HLG-240h-24A
● 2x SSR (https://e3d-online.com/omron-ssr)
● 1x fusível térmico (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermal-fuses/7976042/) para aquecedor
de silicone (verifique a temperatura desejada e a corrente esperada)
● fita capton ou adesivo térmico (para montar o fusível térmico no aquecedor de silicone OU
em uma ranhura na cama)
● Aquecedor de Silicone (110V/240V, número e comprimento ver excel)
 ● Superfície
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) para placa construída w
● Envoltório de fios para cabos

Peças Impressas
Quantos de cada peça você precisa é mostrado no nome do arquivo.

Variedade de parafusos (lista ainda não completa)

● 50x M3x8
● 50x M3x10
● 10x M3x40
● 5x M3x60
● 10x M4x10
● 100x M5x10
● 20x M5x12
● 20x M5x14
● 50x porcas sextavadas M3

Bed_Bracket_15_1.0.stl (https://content.instructables.com/F5Y/EZ1C/JNULE7TR/F5YEZ1CJNULE7TR.stl)
Download (https://content.instructables.com/F5Y/EZ1C/JNULE7TR/F5YEZ1CJNULE7TR.stl)
Ver em 3D

Download (https://content.instructables.com/FAK/VXQM/JOYNZ4V0/FAKVXQMJOYNZ4V0.xlsx)
CoreBot.xlsx (https://content.instructables.com/FAK/VXQM/JOYNZ4V0/FAKVXQMJOYNZ4V0.xlsx)

CoreBot.rar (https://content.instructables.com/F2I/65CT/K393DJ80/F2I65CTK393DJ80.rar)
Download (https://content.instructables.com/F2I/65CT/K393DJ80/F2I65CTK393DJ80.rar)

Z_Axis_Bearing_Holder_LMK12LUU_Right.stl
Download (https://content.instructables.com/FXI/SCTT/KAMI62DL/FXISCTTKAMI62DL.stl)
(https://content.instructables.com/FXI/SCTT/KAMI62DL/FXISCTTKAMI62DL.stl) Ver em 3D

Z_Axis_Bearing_Holder_LMK12LUU_Left.stl
Download (https://content.instructables.com/F4P/YQUD/KAMI62DK/F4PYQUDKAMI62DK.stl)
(https://content.instructables.com/F4P/YQUD/KAMI62DK/F4PYQUDKAMI62DK.stl) Ver em 3D

Z_Nut_Tramming_Spacer.stl
Download (https://content.instructables.com/FGY/NCTG/KAMI62RV/FGYNCTGKAMI62RV.stl)
(https://content.instructables.com/FGY/NCTG/KAMI62RV/FGYNCTGKAMI62RV.stl) Ver em 3D

Z_Nut_mount_drylin.stl (https://content.instructables.com/F77/8345/KAMI62RW/F778345KAMI62RW.stl)
Download (https://content.instructables.com/F77/8345/KAMI62RW/F778345KAMI62RW.stl)
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w

Passo 2: Escolha do Componente e Tentativas Falhadas

auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&fit=bounds&md=47fb8bf947c5ffb2ea2b8a6e9bb7b7b3)
(https://content instructables com/FTR/KK2Z/JO4NNVUE/FTRKK2ZJO4NNVUE png?

Componentes de movimento linear

XY-Movimento:

Optei por usar trilhos lineares da Hiwin com uma "largura" de trilho de 12 mm para o eixo y e 9
mm para o eixo x. Você é livre para encomendá-los da China (aprox. 80€). Se você quer a melhor
experiência, escolha HIWIN-rails genuínos (que eu recomendo - QC na China não é tão bom,
aproximadamente 700€).

Movimento Z:

The z-Axis consists 2 10mm lead screws and 4 12mm smooth rods to keep everything in place. I
found that at the lenght of the spindels, which is needed for a 500mm z-movement, you need to
constraint the spindle on the top AND bottom to keep distortion / ghosting-artifacts low. This
will make tramming the z-axis a pain in the a***e but at the same time will strongly improve
print quality.

Tool-Head
 I tried different
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) tool heads, mounting orientations and so on to find the "best" one. At first I tried w
an E3D V6 with bowden extruder. This did not work out at all. Due to the large travel distances
the bowden tube flexed to much, causing to much friction in the tube and at last jamms. I tried
to solve this problem with different solutions, but none worked (mounting the extruder on the
back of the frame, on top of the frame in the center of the bed, using Capricorn and standard
PTFE, using a filament oiler, re-assembling the hotend multiple times....).

After this I zip-tied my E3D Titan directly to the x-carriage. This immideatly solved all my
jamming problems. Obviously this was no long term solution, so I designed and tested
muldtiple hotend / extruder mounts. In the beginning I planned to use the E3D Titan Aero. A
compact Extruder+Hotend-Solution which should be optimal! Which is kind of true - it works
perfectly as planned, but there was room for improvement. I tried mounting the E3D Titan Aero
in different orientations to reduce the overall footprint while keeping a powerfull fan attached
to it for part cooling. The problem with this solution is the bulkiness of the assembly.

So I tried a different solution using an E3D V6 hotend with threaded heatsink and an E3D Titan
Extruder. In the attached picture you can clearly see that the footprint of the tool head assembly
is reduced by a large amount (yes, the comparison is not quite fair - the V6 version uses a smaller
part cooling fan...but never the less...).

Not only the over all difference in footprint size is a nice feature of the V6 tool head. Due to the
position of the extruder stepper motor on top of the x-carriage the center of gravity (COG) is
much closer to the carriage itself reducing the torsional moment induced in the x-axis (see
picture). This is true for the vertical offset (in z-direction of the printers frame) as well. The
vertical offset of the Titan Aero V2 and Titan Aero V2.1 tool head is 32mm / 35mm. On the V6 tool
head this offset can be reduced to 3mm due to the stepper motor / extruder and Hotend / fan
"balancing" each other out.

The V6 currently uses a 40x40x10mm axial fan for hotend, and 40x40x10mm radial fan for part
cooling. The overall size could be reduced further by using a 30x30x10mm fan for hotend
cooling. Additionally the geometry of the fan duct for part cooling is not completely optimised.

UBG_V6_Direct.stp (https://content.instructables.com/FI5/D56G/JQWT1XDR/FI5D56GJQWT1XDR.stp)
Download (https://content.instructables.com/FI5/D56G/JQWT1XDR/FI5D56GJQWT1XDR.stp)
View in 3D

UBG_TitanAero_V2.1.stp (https://content.instructables.com/F1I/NNJ1/JQWT1XDS/F1INNJ1JQWT1XDS.stp)
Download (https://content.instructables.com/F1I/NNJ1/JQWT1XDS/F1INNJ1JQWT1XDS.stp)
View in 3D
 View in 3D
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w
UBG_TitanAero_V2.stp (https://content.instructables.com/FN9/LFKI/JQWT1XDT/FN9LFKIJQWT1XDT.stp)
Download (https://content.instructables.com/FN9/LFKI/JQWT1XDT/FN9LFKIJQWT1XDT.stp)
View in 3D
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CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/)
Step 3: Frame Assembly w
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w

(https://content
auto=webp&frame=1&fit=bounds&md=f1d7bc6b776e75d71e184795e473c206)
instructables com/F88/5ZHN/JO4NQYBK/F885ZHNJO4NQYBK png?
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w

The frame assembly is pretty straight forwards - you don't have to consider much. Just use the
correct corner brackets in the right position.

On most corners you use the "standard" corner brackets

(https://www.motedis.com/shop/Nutprofil-Zubehoer/Zubehoer-30-B-Typ-Nut-8/Winkel-30-B-
Typ-Nut-8::1057.html), only where the x/y-Motors and idlers are mounted (top 3030 profile in y-
direction) you use different ones.

"Special connectors" are only used to mount the top 3030-y-extrusion with the 12mm-rail to the
z-3030-extrusion. The corner connectors (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Nutprofil-
Zubehoer/Zubehoer-30-B-Typ-Nut-8/Innenwinkel-Zinkdruckguss-30-B-Typ-Nut-8-
90G::859.html) are used on the site with the x/y idlers. The T-matik
(https://www.motedis.com/shop/Nutprofil-Zubehoer/Zubehoer-30-B-Typ-Nut-8/T-Matik-Verbin-
2 More Images
der-wahlweise-mit-BS-30-B-Typ-Nut-8::762.html) connectors auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&height=1024&fit=bounds&md=01cb75f4cf34c6714e530f09ae7b178a)
are used(https://content
to mount the 3030 y-
instructables com/FLR/PRAH/JO8XZOAJ/FLRPRAHJO8XZOAJ jpg?

extrusion on the x/y-motor side (this might be optional - the frame extrusion profiles are
connected in this spot via a printed part - but I found these connectors recently and really like
them to make really strong connections OR enhance / stiffen connections with printed parts).

There are two things you have to consider when assembling the frame:

1. Mount the MGN12 rails to the 3030 y-extrusion before you put it into the frame. This will
make your life easier. The MGN12 rail should have a distance of 10mm (x/y-idler) from one
end, and 42mm (x/y-motor) from the other end.
2. To mount the x/y-motor-mounts and Nema17 steppers correctly do the assembly in the
follwoing order.
3. Before mounting the top 3030 y-extrusion, mount the x/y-motor mount to the 3030 z-
extrusion using 4x M5x10mm screws and t-slot nuts.
 4. Mount
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) the Nema17 Motor (motor length < 40mm) to the x/y-motor mount and put the w
drive wheel (16 tooth) on the shaft. Mind the correct orientation (see pictures).
5. At last but the top 3030 y-extrusion with the attached MGN12 rails into the frame.

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Step 4: Z-Axis Installation and Tramming

Installation of the rods and the motor mounts for the z-axis is pretty self-explanatory. And
tramming the axes and the spindle might be as well.

But on a printer this size tramming may become an issue. At least it was for me because I don't
own any tools which can measure if something is straight or equal distance on lenghts 150 mm
or above. For this I built a littel tramming helper for the z-axis. For the tramming you will need a
spare 3030 extrusion and the tramming helper part. This assembly will just function like a giant
"ruler".

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 Step 5: Tool Head Assembly
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w

auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&height=1024&fit=bounds&md=00da7939aa29ef60b8a866555
(https://content instructables com/FEU/YISB/JO8XZOBT/FEUYISBJO8XZOBT jpg?
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w

To assemble the tool head you can mostly use the greate guides by E3D:

E3D V6 Assembly (https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en)

E3D Titan Assembly (https://e3d-

online.dozuki.com/Guide/1.75mm+Bowden+Titan+Assembly/20?lang=en)

To get everything aligned and assembled properly you have to do the assembly in the following
order:

1. Put 2 M3 Hex nuts in the slots on top of the printed part. The access to these holes will be
blocked by the extruder stepper motor after assembly.
2. Assemble the E3D V6 with threaded heatsink.
3. Mount the E3D V6 Inside the hotend mount and Insert a short piece of PTFE. (https://content instructables com/F8G/88DI/JO8XZOBU/F8G88DIJO8XZOBU jpg?
auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&height=1024&fit=bounds&md=d38ad1ebf0efeda612db33dc1

4. Assemble the E3D Titan (Bowden Version). There is only one tricky part: Getting the bowden
coupling to slide into the E3D Titan's housing.
5. Attach the fans and route the wires using zip ties.

UBG_V6_Direct.stp (https://content.instructables.com/FW9/38YT/JQWT1XBH/FW938YTJQWT1XBH.stp)
Download (https://content.instructables.com/FW9/38YT/JQWT1XBH/FW938YTJQWT1XBH.stp)
View in 3D

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CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/)
Step 6: X / Y Gantry Assembly w
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w

auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&height=1024&fit=bounds&md=37fd3bd327472162139
(https://content instructables com/F3X/DAS1/JP6TBPMI/F3XDAS1JP6TBPMI
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w

auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&height=1024&fit=bounds&md=7d89c07494e780ef089
(https://content instructables com/FX9/DGMG/JP6TBPMO/FX9DGMGJP6TBPM

First mount your MGN9 rail centered on the 2020 aluminium extrusion and the MGN12 rails on
the 3030 extrusion.

Position the 4 GT2-idlers on x-profile-mount and secure them using M3 screws and nuts. Slide
the MGN9C carriage onto its rail. Afterwards attach the x-profile-mount to both sides of the
using the MGN12H carriages, 3x M5 screws, 4 M3x Screws and 2x M5 T-Slot Nuts. Do not tighten
 the M5 screws
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) all the way - they are tightened after installation to allow some air for tramming. w
Slide the MGN12H carriages onto their rails (which are already mounted to the 3030 extrusions)
and dry-fit everything onto your frame. If you have done everything correct and your frame is
trammed neatly it should fit perfectly - otherwise slight persuasion might be necessary. DON'T
USE BRUTE FORCE. This might bent your axis and you will need to buy new ones.

Fix the 3030 extrusion in place using 2x 3030 corner brackets and 2x T-Matik connectors. Slid the
MGN12H carriages all the way to one end, back to the others and keep them parallel while
doing so. After multiple repetitions everything should be mostly aligned.

Now you can finally tighten the 3x M5 screws on the x-profile-mount. Slide the x-axis back an
forth one more time to see if everything runs smoothly. If not: loosen the M5 screws on the x-
profile mount an try again.

After this you can install the mount for the belt idlers on the frame, install the belt, allign the
pulleys and tension everything.

Congratulations. Your x/y-gantry is complete.

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auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&height=1024&fit=bounds&md=2f905d608e89ffa74408
(https://content instructables com/FGM/VRPV/JP6TBPMV/FGMVRPVJP6TBPM
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/)
Step 7: Impressions & Print Results w
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w

auto=webp&frame=1&height=1024&fit=bounds&md=e25160b03a9267f047a9d68
(https://content instructables com/FCD/QWG4/JQQYJO2J/FCDQWG4JQQYJO
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w

auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&height=1024&fit=bounds&md=f409f8f162091a4915
(https://content instructables com/F42/5Q5H/JQQYJO2M/F425Q5HJQQYJO2

Guardian Shield+ Zelda Breath of the Wild (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2461486)In the

pictures you can see some of the parts I printed already.

Zelda: Breath of the Wild – Guardian Sword (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2308507)

 Download (https://content.instructables.com/FNV/X2R6/JRGOGON1/FNVX2R6JRGOGON1.mp4)
VID_20190128_193715.mp4
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w
(https://content.instructables.com/FNV/X2R6/JRGOGON1/FNVX2R6JRGOGON1.mp4)

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auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&height=1024&fit=bounds&md=cb61a1d6b17db04ef8
(https://content instructables com/FP4/LUT5/JQQYO5I0/FP4LUT5JQQYO5
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/)
Step 8: Filament Runout Sensor & Spool Mount w
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w

auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&height=1024&fit=bounds&md=5af1c0388fa0c38414ee3e3d81
(https://content instructables com/FAC/FK2O/JQUU3FO6/FACFK2OJQUU3FO6 jpg?
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Update from 13th Jan. 2019

Filament Runout Sensor

I opted to add an (optional) Filament runout sensor. It is really annoying to have a long print
"fail" because no material is left. Espacially with a large print size.

As a "sensor" I used a standard micro switch which only sense is filament is loaded or not. I did
not want to implement a version of filament sensor which does not work realiably with differen
kinds / colors of materials (Josef?).

As you might have guessed from the pictures I use a "reverse bowden" setup. The tool heads are
direct drive but the filament is guided through the drag chain throug a 2/4mm PTFE tube
(3/4mm might be better to reduce friction - the filament path in the drag chain does not have to
be constraint at all). The PTFE tube directly attaches to the E3D Titan on auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&height=1024&fit=bounds&md=75143f11a1679b4a163e43ab19
one side and to the instructables com/FKA/8T47/JQUU3FIT/FKA8T47JQUU3FIT jpg?
(https://content

Filament runout sensor on the other side.

How to wire and setup a filament sensor for the Duet is described here:

Connecting a Filament Runout Sensor - Duet3D

(https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_filament-out_sensors)

M591 - Configure Filament Runout Sensor

(https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M591_Configure_filament_sensing)

Spool Mount / Rack

I included the parts for my spool mount / rack solution. It's really simple. I just attached 2 spare
pieces of 3030 extrusion to the printers top using 6030 (printed) and 3030 (bought) corner
brackets. The length of the 3030 extrusion depends on the max spool diameter you want to use.
 To hold the spools I used a 12mm rod I had laying around.
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w
In the beginning I thought I'd need some bearings (espacially for bigger 2.3kg spools. But until
now everything works fine - even with the "hungry" 0.8mm Nozzle.

CornerBracket_60mm.stl (https://content.instructables.com/FMB/A0DR/JQUTZ1XO/FMBA0DRJQUTZ1XO.stl)
Download (https://content.instructables.com/FMB/A0DR/JQUTZ1XO/FMBA0DRJQUTZ1XO.stl)
View in 3D

Spool_Rod_Mount.stl (https://content.instructables.com/F7F/PMYB/JQUTZ1XP/F7FPMYBJQUTZ1XP.stl)
Download (https://content.instructables.com/F7F/PMYB/JQUTZ1XP/F7FPMYBJQUTZ1XP.stl)
View in 3D

Coupling_Mount.stl (https://content.instructables.com/FR5/AOE0/JQUU3DKL/FR5AOE0JQUU3DKL.stl)
Download (https://content.instructables.com/FR5/AOE0/JQUU3DKL/FR5AOE0JQUU3DKL.stl)
View in 3D

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CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/)
Step 9: Quick-Connector for Tool Heads w
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w

(https://content
auto=webp&frame=1&fit=bounds&md=3de8efc12606a5c0db612cdd42d49d4d)
instructables com/FEI/16NK/JR0YKOJQ/FEI16NKJR0YKOJQ png?

2 More Images
auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&fit=bounds&md=ed954dff9106802817e39ef96d737d78)
(https://content instructables com/F6J/ZEMK/JQWT3X8K/F6JZEMKJQWT3X8K png? (https://content
auto=webp&frame=1&fit=bounds&md=4e0ed6b6695ff687799949c64dc62a29)
instructables com/F1D/2V4T/JQWSZ4UL/F1D2V4TJQWSZ4UL png?
 I have researched
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) several solutions of quick connector types and choose pogo pins / spring w
loaded pins as the solution for my tool changing mechanism. The general idea is quiete simple.
I'll keep the current design of most parts. Except - obviously - the parts that have to be changed
for the tool changer mechanics. Also I might use a CNC milled aluminium x-axis-carrier (instead
of 2020 extursion) in the future.

First of all: I'll need 12 wires for each tool head - because the bed leveling sensor is attached to
the x-carriage. These wires are needed for:

● VCC & GND for the heater cartridge (30W @ 24V = 1.25 Amps)
● VCC & GND for the coldend cooling fan (< 0.2 Amps)
● VCC & GND for the part cooling fan (< 0.2 Amps)
● 4 phases for the stepper motor (<1.0 Amps per phase)
● 2 wires for the thermistor (<< 0.2 Amps)

The pogo pins / spring loaded pins I ordere have a current rating of 1A - so I'd need 4 (2xVCC &
2xGND) pins for the heater cartridge. I'll also use the VCC-line of the heater cartridge for the fans
(total current on these pins < 1.65 Amps).

In total I'd need at least 12 pins to make a suitable connector. In practice I think I'd use a 2.54mm
pitch PCB with a size of 4x9 holes (see render). This would give me the possibilty to have up to
14 pogo pins + space for mounting it using M1.6 screws. The PCB would have a size of 10.2x22.9
mm. I hope to fit it "within" the air gap between the 2 aluminium plates on the x-carriage. I hope
a similar solution will work with the E3D tool head (at least with a CAN-BUS board).

But there are some inherent problems with this apporach:

1. Disconnetcting and connecting a stepper driver while it's under power will fry the driver (if
not immediatly at least over time),
2. Connection problems - especially on the heater cartridge and thermistor pins may lead to
undesirable "thermal runaway protection" triggers,
3. There would be no way of monitoring the temperature, driving the coldend cooling fan and
setting standy temperature while the tool head is in the tool dock (aka not attached to the x-
carriage).
 But there are
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) also solutions for this problems. The most obvious one: wait for the Duet 3 w
(https://www.duet3d.com/duet3) Controll board and use a seperate stepper driver, temperature
& fan controller on a PCB mounted to the tool head and connect everything via CAN-BUS
(https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/8611/tool-changer-and-the-wiring-issue/6). In this way I'd only
need to run VCC, GND (6 wires for ~3 amps) and 2 wires for the CAN-BUS signal to the tool head.
But nobody can say when the board will be released. Nevertheless I already added a picture with
a supposed solution (= position for pogo pins) for this.

More DIY solutions for the meantime would be:

For #1: Using gcode to shut of the power to the driver with (i.e.) M18 E0. After sending this code
it is safe to disconnect the stepper driver even while the board is powered on.

Remaining issue #1: What happens if the pogo pin connection is not reliable and "contact
issues" occure during print moves?...so this would be issue #2...

For #3: That would be solvable due to the RepRaps firmware feature set and modularity through
the gcode-programming and an additional set of pogo pins in the tool dock (for heater &
coldend cooling fan). While the tool moves from the x-carriage to the dock all sensors, heaters,
stepper drivers are detached in firmware via gcode-commands. After the tool head is parked in
the dock the tool head is associated with that go from the Duet to the pogo pins in the tool
dock.
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Step 10: Obsolete Steps, Pictures & Solutions w
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w

auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&fit=bounds&md=5545423b0e09bccef692bc4603cdc64d)
(https://content instructables com/FQI/8FS2/JQWT0DIO/FQI8FS2JQWT0DIO png?
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) w

auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&fit=bounds&md=49af3fccab5e665a0728e00346838bd9)
(https://content instructables com/FQL/SAOZ/JQWSZ8EM/FQLSAOZJQWSZ8EM png?

The pictures / information in this step is obselete and just for documentation / back-log
purpose.

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(/member/Theeaterofshades/) Theeaterofshades (/member/Theeaterofshades/) Question 2 years ago

Answer / Upvote
What is the approx finished price of this build?
1 answer F

(/member/dcvaughan4/) dcvaughan4 (/member/dcvaughan4/) Question 2 years ago

Answer / Upvote
What type of IEC connector are you using? With my math I would need a 20 amp fused IEC connector.
But I am also anticipating using water cooling and an enclosure heater.
2 answers F

(/member/sjhoglund/) sjhoglund (/member/sjhoglund/) Question 2 years ago

Answer / Upvote
How did the pogo pins workout for the tool changer?
1 answer F

(/member/runcoach/) runcoach (/member/runcoach/) 2 years ago

Reply / Upvote
Three months later, I finally received the threaded inserts to mount the Z_Nut_mounts to the anti-
backlash spindle nuts. Now to get the spacing right so there is not too much torque on the spindle.
How hard should the spindle's be to turn by hand when you are done? I don't want to blow my stepper
motors by working them too hard.
1 reply F

(/member/runcoach/) runcoach (/member/runcoach/) Question 2 years ago

Answer / Upvote
Hello again. I am almost ready to start wiring. I am having trouble connecting the bed to the spindles.
How did you connect from the Z_Nut_mount_drylin.stl to the antibacklash spindle nut? You have holes
in the Z-Nut_mount that do not go through. Thank you in advance.
2 answers F
CoreBot - Impressora 3D CoreXY da MacNite (/member/MacNite/) (/member/TRC91/) TRC91 (/member/TRC91/) Question 3 years ago on Step 1 w
Answer / Upvote
For some reason I cant find the excel sheet. Thanks
1 answer F

(/member/runcoach/) runcoach (/member/runcoach/) 3 years ago

Reply / Upvote
I'm baaack! I hope you are well. I'm fortunate enough to live in a remote enough area of Northern,
Ontario, Canada, that COVID-19 has not made it here.....yet. I finally had to design and print my own
antibacklash spindle nut blocks because I could not find 10 mm ones anywhere that would ship to
Canada. Then wait 8-10 weeks for the wrong tap to show up. I learned what a trapezoidal tap is...LOL
Then wait another 10-12 weeks for the trapezoidal tap to show up yesterday. Just didn't want you to
think I had given up.
1 reply F

(/member/dynamite3d/) dynamite3d (/member/dynamite3d/) Question 3 years ago

Answer / Upvote
MacNite,

Need your help bud, I have tried 3 different pieces to connect the bed to the spindle with no luck.
When I look in the .stp I don't see the specific piece. Any chance you can upload it?

TIA
1 answer F

/1 (/member/hotreef/) hotreef (/member/hotreef/) Question 3 years ago

Answer / Upvote
Hi, love the build and ordered most of the parts to start building one myself. I am printing of the parts to
get ready to start assembling this weekend and did not see the stl files for the parts to connect the bed
to the 12mm rods/lmk12luu and the bed to the spindle nut. I might just be over looking them and not
seeing them but thought I would ask to see if there is another repository of files.
1 answer F

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