SELEÇÃO DE 20

Projetos

PROJETOS
MESTRE
ADILSON PINHEIRO

CLUBE
DOS PROJETOS
 INTRODUÇÃO
Adilson Pinheiro por aqui. Tudo bem?
Sabemos que a melhor forma de evoluir na marcenaria
é produzindo isso é uma verdade irrevogável,
Também sabemos que a internet está lotada de
vídeos, fotos e desenhos de peças que você pode
fazer, por um lado isso é bom, por outro gera confusão
e até pode atrasar sua diversão e evolução.
Como assim?
É fácil passar horas em busca de uma inspiração ou de
um esquema de fabricação e no fim do dia não ter
encontrado algo que realmente valha a pena fazer.
Pensando em você, selecionei alguns bons projetos
que estão disponíveis gratuitamente na internet para
que possa executar.
Muitos deles estão em inglês, mas não se preocupe, as
imagens são auto-explicativas.
Outros estão com medidas em polegadas, para esses
eu te aconselho usar uma trena ou metro com medidas
em polegadas, não tente converter só irá gerar
confusão.
Por fim desejo que se divirta e evolua na marcenaria
criativa.
Abraços e bons projetos!

WWW.MESTRESDAMADEIRA.COM
 GET FROM ROCKLER

Rockler Stock # Item

3/4" Oak Lumber

Make & Take

54967 Surface Mount
Bottle Opener
47516 Dowel Jig Kit
20966 3/4" Oak Dowel

Series

www.rockler.com
800-279-4441

OTHER MATERIALS
• Glue and dowels
• Sandpaper
• Drying oil or wipe-on finish

A handy and fun-to-make bottle

tote for your favorite beverages.

Bottle Caddy © 2016 Rockler Companies Inc.

1. MARK THE PIECES 2. LOCATE THE DOWELS 3. BORE THE DOWEL HOLES

Mark a centerline and make a half Mark the dowel locations as shown in Using a doweling jig, drill the dowel
template. Trace the outline. Flip the the drawings on all the components. holes in the ends, sides and bottom.
template and repeat. This ensures Drill the handle holes using a drill Make sure the holes are deep enough
that the ends will be symmetrical. press and a Forstner bit. for the parts to fully seat.

4. CUT THE ENDS 5. GLUE THE DOWELS 6. FINAL ASSEMBLY

Cut the shaped ends using a band Glue the dowels into the sides and Apply glue to the dowels and handle
saw or jigs aw. Sand the saw marks bottom. Be sure the dowels don’t and then press the caddy together and
and round over any sharp corners stick out further than the depth of clamp until the glue is dry.
that are hard to reach after assembly. the holes you drilled in the ends.

2 © 2016 Rockler Companies Inc.

 Each square = 1/2"

5
3
5

2
1

MATERIAL LIST
T x W x L
1 Ends (2) 3/4" x 7" x 121⁄2"
2 Bottom (1) 3/4"7 x 7" x 85⁄8"
3 Rails (4) 3/4" x 11⁄2" x 85⁄8"
4 Long Divider (1) 1/4"8 x 4" x 85⁄8"
5 Short Dividers (2) 1/4"9 x 4" x 51⁄2"
6 Handle (1) 3/4" Dia. x 93⁄8"
10

3 © 2016 Rockler Companies Inc.

 Copyright © 2015 Shanty-2-Chic.com

Bathroom Storage Cabinet

A farmhouse-inspired sliding door adds charm and functionality to this
bathroom cabinet. Three shelves give you ample space for your
bathroom novelties.
CUT LIST
Materials needed Qty
Part Qty Part Name Dimension 1” x 10” x 8’ pine board 3
A 2 Vertical sides 1” x 10” x 40” 1” x 6” x 8’ pine board 2
B 3 Shelves 1” x 10” x 33-½” 1” x 4” x 8’ pine board 3
C 2 Top front and top back 1” x 6” x 33-½” 1” x 2” x 8’ pine board 3
brace rails
1” x 12” x 8’ pine board 1
D 1 Top face frame rail 1” x 6” x 32”
11/16” x 11/16” x 8’ 2
E 1 Bottom back brace rail 1” x 4” x 33-½” cove molding
F 5 Door slats 1” x 4” x34-¼” ¼” x 48” x 48” plywood 1
G 2 Side face frame stiles 1” x 2” x 40” • 1-1/4” pocket screws
H 4 Shelf face frame rails 1” x 2” x 15-¼” • 1-¼” brad nails
I 1 Middle face frame stile 1” x 2” x 33” • ¾” bad nails
J 1 Bottom face frame rail 1” x 2” x 32” • 3-½” torx wood screws
K 1 Top 1” x 12” x 37” • wood glue
L 6 Top & bottom molding • sliding barn door kit 1
M 1 Back Panel 34-¾” x 40” • • decorative metal strapping 1
•• Make sure to cut the plywood so the grain
(optional for bottom of door)
is going long direction
• Hold in place and cut to fit

¼” x 48” x 48”
L X2
11/16” x 11/16” x 8’ cove molding

1” x 12” x 8’
J
1” x 2” x 8’
H H H I
1” x 2” x 8’
G G H
1” x 2” x 8’
F F
1” x 4” x 8’
F F
1” x 4” x 8’
E F
1” x 4” x 8’
D
1” x 6” x 8’
C C
1” x 6” x 8’

1” x 10” x 8’

B B

1” x 10” x 8’

A A

1” x 10” x 8’
SHanty-2-Chic.com Bathroom storage cabinet - Page | 2
 1 A

2 D

H H
E

I
B G G

3
H H

1.
Drill for 1-1/4” pocket screws along the ends and top edges of both the top front and top back rails as shown. Attach the top front and
the top back brace rails to the vertical side boards with screws and wood glue. The pocket holes along the top edge will be used to
attach the top later on.
Attach the rails with the pocket screws facing out. You will cover up the front pocket holes
with a face frame and you want the back to have the clean face facing inwards.

2.
Drill for 1-1/4” pocket screws in the bottom shelf and the bottom rail brace as shown. First attach the bottom shelf with wood glue
and screws so that the top of the shelf is 1-1/2” (or the thickness of your 1” x 2” board for the bottom of the face frame) from the
bottom as shown. Then attach your bottom brace rail with the pocket screws facing outward as shown..

3.
Cut the side face frame pieces and the top and bottom face frame pieces to fit the box you made in steps 1 and 2.
Create your face-frame as shown, drilling for 1-1/4” pocket screws and attaching with wood glue and screws.
Make sure the faces and edges of the boards are all flush.
SHanty-2-Chic.com Farmhouse ‘X-Door’ Vanity - Page | 3
 4

5
B

6
M

BACK UPPER CORNER

M A
VIEW WITH STAPLE
IN PLACE

WIDTH OF SIDE
PANEL EDGE

4.
Attach the face frame with wood glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Make sure the outside, top and bottom side edges are flush with the face frame.

5.
Drill for 1-1/4” pocket screws along the sides and front edges on the bottom of the remaining two shelves.
Attach with wood glue and screws; making sure the top of the shelves are flush with the shelf face frame rails.

6.
Cut your plywood back panel to fit so that it will be flush top and bottom and 1/8” shorter on both sides of the box you’ve created.
Attach with staples so that the orientation of the staples run vertical. With the back panel cut narrower you should still have about
1/2” of the side panel edges to staple into. See detail.

SHanty-2-Chic.com Farmhouse ‘X-Door’ Vanity - Page | 4

 7
K

9
8
L

7.
Hold your 1” x 12” board on top of your cabinet, flush with the back. Measure how far forward the board hangs over the front
and cut the length so that the over hang is equal on all sides. Attach with wood glue and pocket screws through the
holes you drilled earlier in step 1.

8.
Attach your cove molding by first cutting a 45 degree miter cut at one end. Then hold the piece up to the front with the mitered end at
one end. Mark the other for length and cut the opposite mitered 45 degree cut. Now cut a mitered cut into a piece slightly longer than
the side. Hold that piece and the front piece in place and mark the length of the side piece where it touches the back end
of the side board, NOT THE BACK OF THE PLYWOOD PANEL. Make a straight cut on the other end of the side molding.
Now repeat with the other side and dry fit the three pieces. Once you are happy with the corner mitered cuts attach with
wood glue and 3/4” brad nails.
Repeat adding the molding on the bottom but flip the molding so that the flat end is on the bottom.

9.
Attach the plate for the sliding door according to the instructions that came with the hardware. Basically, the instructions will give you
measurements for screw and plate placement. The kit should have a spacer and screws and be attached similarly as shown.

SHanty-2-Chic.com Farmhouse ‘X-Door’ Vanity - Page | 5

 10

EXAGGERATION OF PROPER END GRAIN ORIENTATION

11

10.
Taking into account the length of the door sliding hardware and how it sits on the plate will determine the length of your
door slats. Take some time and take careful measurements. You basically want the door to be about 3/4” shorter than your cabinet
when it is hung. If for some reason it comes out a bit too long you can always run the finished door across your table saw, or use
a radial hand saw, and trim it to the proper length.
To attach the door slats together you will drill for 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown. When laying out the boards take notice of the circu-
lar motion of the end grain on the edge of your board. You want to alternate the end grain as shown in the detail above. This will help
the door not to cup and warp over time. Attach with wood glue and screws..

11.
Attach the door hanging hardware according to the instructions that came with the hardware. As an added, decorative element we
attached a metal strapping across the bottom as shown. You could instead use a door pull or simply nothing at all.
SHanty-2-Chic.com Farmhouse ‘X-Door’ Vanity - Page | 6
 GET FROM ROCKLER

Rockler Stock # Item

22708 Kreg R3 Pocket

Make & Take

Hole Jig
52318 Pocket Hole Screws

Series

www.rockler.com
800-279-4441

OTHER MATERIALS
• Sandpaper

Step up to stool making with this

practical project that’s fun to make.

5-PIECE STEP STOOL © 2017 Rockler Companies Inc.

1. MARK THE PIECES 2. CUT THE SHAPES 3. BEGIN BORING THE HOLES

Use a compass and a combo square Use a handheld jigsaw to cut the Using a pocket-hole jig, bore the
to mark the shapes you will cut onto shapes into the stool parts. Clamp holes at the ends of each stretcher.
your stool components. The form of them in place while you cut to ensure These joints will join the legs to the
these cutouts is up to the builder. accuracy and safety. stretchers.

4. COMPLETE THE DRILLING 5. ATTACH THE LEGS 6. FINAL ASSEMBLY

In the same way, bore the holes that With the long driver bit provided in Complete the assembly by screwing
will attach the stretchers to the top the pocket-hole kit, drive screws the top to the stretcher. Then sand the
of the stool. Again, clamp the pieces through the stretchers into the stool smooth and apply your finish of
securely as you drill the components. legs of the stool. choice.

2 © 2017 Rockler Companies Inc.

 The builder can vary the shape of the
stool’s top and the cutouts in the legs
1 of the stool. No glue is required for
the assembly of the stool.

115/16"

3
/4" 3
/4"

6 11 16 21

7 12 17 22

3 8 13 18 23

4 9 14 19 24

MATERIAL LIST 5 10 15 20 25
3 T x W x L
2 1 Top (1) 3/4" x 91 ⁄ 4" x 15"
2 Legs (2) 3/4" x 91 ⁄ 4" x 9"
3 Stretchers (2) 3/4" x 3" x 11"

3 © 2017 Rockler Companies Inc.

WWMM Candy Plinko Game

WoodworkingForMereMortals.com
WWMM Candy Plinko Game

WoodworkingForMereMortals.com
WWMM Candy Plinko Game

WoodworkingForMereMortals.com
WWMM Candy Plinko Game

WoodworkingForMereMortals.com
WWMM Candy Plinko Game

WoodworkingForMereMortals.com
WWMM Candy Plinko Game

WoodworkingForMereMortals.com
WWMM Candy Plinko Game

WoodworkingForMereMortals.com
WWMM Candy Plinko Game

WoodworkingForMereMortals.com
WWMM Candy Plinko Game

WoodworkingForMereMortals.com
WWMM Candy Plinko Game

WoodworkingForMereMortals.com
WoodworkingForMereMortals.com
 WWMM Candy Plinko Game

1.5” end caps cutting templates

Note: I designed this for 1” diameter round candy

WoodworkingForMereMortals.com
MINE ADEGA DE PAREDE
MATERIAIS INTRODUÇÃO

Madeira natural Madeira natural 2 cantoneiras

Tábua 20mm Ripa 20mm duplas
20 x 300 cm 4 x 100 cm

Parafuso Parafuso 3 parafusos parede

cabeça chata cabeça panela com bucha
6 par. 3,5 x 35 5 par. 3,5 x 20
12 par. 3,5 x 40
2 par. 4,0 x 50

1 cantoneira
simples
VISÃO GERAL INTRODUÇÃO

F
B
E

D
A

G
 PLANO DE CORTE INTRODUÇÃO

Tabua – 20mm de espessura (12cm de largura)

12
F 20
Largura Compr.
12 C 48
A
(cm)
12
(cm)
62
B 12 56
12 D 48
C 12 48
D 12 48
12 B 56 E 12 60
F 12 20
12 E 60

12 A 62

Ripa – 20mm de espessura (4cm de largura)

50
4 G Largura Compr.
(cm) (cm)
4 H G 4 50
50 H 4 50
 RECORTE DETALHADO INTRODUÇÃO

PEÇA – A

6
12
7,5 10,9 10,9 10,9 10,9 10,9
6

62

Para fazer os recortes na peça A encontre os pontos azuis da

figura acima seguindo as medidas da mesma

75mm

Em seguida faça os furos nas marcações, utilizando uma serra

copo de 75mm de diâmetro *

* Aumente o diâmetro de 75mm para 80mm para facilitar a

passagem da garrafa caso queira que as garrafas fiquem
inclinadas
 RECORTE DETALHADO INTRODUÇÃO

PEÇA – B

MODELO 1 – GARRAFAS RETAS

6
12
5,5 10,9 10,9 10,9 10,9 6,9
6

56
Para fazer os recortes na peça B encontre os pontos azuis da
figura acima seguindo as medidas da mesma

35mm

Em seguida faça os furos nas marcações, utilizando uma serra

copo de 35mm de diâmetro

Seguindo as medidas acima as

garrafas irão ficar na horizontal,
veja na próxima página as medidas
para deixar as garrafas inclinadas
para baixo
 RECORTE DETALHADO INTRODUÇÃO

PEÇA – B

MODELO 2 – GARRAFAS INCLINADAS

12
8,5 10,9 10,9 10,9 10,9 3,9

56
Para fazer os recortes na peça B de forma que as garrafas
fiquem inclinadas para baixo, encontre os pontos azuis da
figura acima seguindo as medidas da mesma

40mm

Em seguida faça os furos nas marcações, utilizando uma serra

copo de 40mm de diâmetro

Seguindo as medidas acima as

garrafas irão ficar inclinadas para baixo
em 10°. Caso queira uma inclinação
diferente desta, adapte as medidas .
Note que os furos de B aumentaram
de 35 para 40mm. Os furos de A
também devem aumentar de 75mm
para 80mm para facilitar a passagem
da garrafa.
 RECORTE DETALHADO INTRODUÇÃO

PEÇAS – G e H

Os recortes nas peças G e

H deverão ser feitos no
sentido longitudinal

Visão de 2
topo
Para fazer esses
recortes, utilize uma
2 serra circular com
45º inclinação de 45º na
lâmina. Siga as medidas
ao lado
4
 RECORTE DETALHADO INTRODUÇÃO

OPCIONAL – Recorte em ângulo nas peças A, E e G

Opcionalmente pode-se fazer um recorte em 45º nas quinas das

laterais da adega, para obter um desing diferenciado, assim
como ilustrado no detalhe abaixo.
A E

G
2 Peças A e
E Faça um corte longitudinal
45º 2 com uma serra circular a 45º
no canto das peças A e E,
12
assim como ilustrado ao
lado

Faça um recorte no canto de

G também a 45º, para
acompanhar a linha de E
45º
 MONTAGEM

PASSO 1 – Fixando A em C

Posicione A em C
formando um ângulo de
90°
Fixe com 2 parafusos
(40mm) de A para C
Fique atento na posição de
A, para não inverter os
A lados, assim como
ilustrado nos detalhes ao
lado

PASSO 2 – Fixando E em C

Posicione E no outro lado

de C formando um ângulo
de 90º
Fixe com 2 parafusos
(40mm) de E para C
 MONTAGEM

PASSO 3 – Fixando B em C

Posicione B tocando C a
uma distância de 15cm de A
Fique atento na posição de
C, para não inverter os
lados, assim como ilustrado
nos detalhes ao lado

Para fixar utilize 2 parafusos

(40mm) partindo de C para B
 MONTAGEM

PASSO 4 – Fixando D em E, B e A

Posicione D tocando E, B e
A A
Note no detalhe que irá
sobrar uma ponta de A de
2cm abaixo de D
Inicie a fixação com 2
parafusos (40mm) de E
para D

Em seguida fixe com 2

parafusos (40mm) de D para
B
Finalize com 2 parafusos
A (40mm) de A para D
 MONTAGEM

PASSO 5 – Fixando F em E

Posicione F em E, formando
um ângulo de 90º
Deixamos um espaço de
35cm entre F e D e 19cm
entre F e C. Este formato
acomoda garrafas grandes
na embaixo e copos em
cima.
Fixe com 2 parafusos
(50mm) de E para F

PASSO 6 – Fixando H em D

Posicione H no canto de
trás de D, assim como
ilustrado no detalhe ao lado
H Preste atenção na posição
D do recorte de H para não
inverter
E
H Fixe com 3 parafusos
(35mm) de H para D
 MONTAGEM

PASSO 7 – Fixando G em D

Posicione G no canto da
frente de E, assim como
ilustrado no detalhe ao lado

G Preste atenção na posição

do recorte de G para não
inverter
Fixe com 3 parafusos
(35mm) de G para D
G H
 MONTAGEM

PASSO 8 – Fixando as cantoneiras duplas em C e na parede

Para fixar a adega na

parede primeiramente fixe
duas cantoneiras duplas
em C, utilizando 2
parafusos (20mm) em cada
cantoneira

Em seguida, posicione a
adega no local que deseja
fixar e marque com um lápis
a posição dos parafusos que
irão na parede
Faça os furos na parede e
insira a bucha
Retorne a adega no local e
parafuse as duas
cantoneiras na parede
 MONTAGEM

PASSO 9 – Fixando a cantoneira simples em F e na parede

Para reforçar a sustentação da

peça F, utilize uma cantoneira
pequena com um parafuso de
20mm entrando em F e um
parafuso com bucha na parede
Esse reforço é importante
principalmente se for colocar
algo mais pesado que copos
nessa prateleira

F
Wall Wine Holder
Dec 16, 2016 | Jamison Rantz | 9 Comments

This wine bottle holder project takes just minutes to build and can be made for free or close to it if you have the
right scraps.
Required Tools
 Drill & 1-3/8″ Forstner Bit
 Miter Saw
 Tape Measure
 Pencil
 Safety Glasses
 Hearing Protection

Materials
 25″ of 2 x 4
 18″ of 1 x 6
 1-1/4″ Wood Screws
 2-1/2″ Wood Screws
 Wood Glue

Disclosure: The links provided in the “materials” and “required tools” sections are affiliate links. If you would
like to support our site and help keep our content free come find out more about how we can make money with no
extra cost to you.

How to build a Simple Wall Wine Holder

 Trapezoidal
Bookcase
don’t think I’ve ever built a perfect sions of the same bookcase, with an

I reproduction. Even when I really

like an existing design, I need the piece
overall look in common.
As is the case with much Arts and

to be slightly larger, I prefer some tech- Crafts furniture, the essential decorative

nique over one used in the original elements of all versions of this piece

construction, or I don’t have the exact are the construction details, including

materials. In any case, I think that one the canted sides for stability and the

of the more enjoyable aspects of wood- wedged, locking through-tenons. In his

working is trying new ideas and combi- interpretation of the original, David left

nations. So it is with this bookcase, and these elements intact, but he omitted

twice over. the molded crown and used cherry

I based the design of this bookcase (instead of fumed white oak) and con-

on one made by David Fay, a furniture trasting panga panga wood wedges and

maker in Oakland, California, who shelf supports.

based his design on a turn-of-the- My bookcase is identical to David’s,

century Roycroft magazine pedestal. but I used ash with zebrawood for the

David’s version strayed from the origi- wedges. I also made mine knockdown

nal somewhat, and my design strays for transporting.

from David’s. The results are three ver-

81
Trapezoidal Knockdown Bookcase
THIS IS AN UPDATED, KNOCKDOWN VERSION of a Roycroft magazine stand held together
with through wedge tenons on the top and bottom shelves. The middle shelves are held in
position with unglued biscuits. The front edges of the sides are tapered 3 degrees, and the
sides also lean toward each other at 3 degrees, giving the piece a trapezoidal shape.

Angled and
Wedge tapered side

Shelf

Biscuit

Through tenon

82
 FRONT VIEW SIDE VIEW

91⁄ 2”

121⁄2”

137⁄ 16” 9”

10”
141⁄ 2”

111⁄ 8”
1511⁄ 16”

661⁄ 2”

121⁄ 4”

1615⁄ 16”

143⁄ 4”

181⁄ 2”

415⁄ 16”

131⁄ 2”

Sides and shelves are 3⁄ 4” thick.

CUT LIST FOR
TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE
Carcase and Shelves
2 Sides 131⁄ 2 in. x 665⁄ 8 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.

1 Shelf 137⁄ 16 in. x 105⁄ 16 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.

1 Shelf 141⁄ 2 in. x 1015⁄ 16 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.

1 Shelf 1511⁄ 16 in. x 119⁄ 16 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.

1 Shelf 1615⁄ 16 in. x 125⁄ 16 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.

1 Top shelf 171⁄ 2 in. x 93⁄ 4 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.

1 Bottom shelf 231⁄ 2 in. x 131⁄ 4 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.

8 Wedges 33⁄ 8 in. x 3⁄ 4 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.

All parts are made of solid ash except for the zebrawood wedges.

TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE 83
Building the Bookcase Step-by-Step

T HIS BOOKCASE would be a cinch to

build except for the 3-degree trapezoidal
shape. All of the joinery must be cut at this
angle, often with special-made jigs. The best
place to begin is with a full-sized drawing of
the bookcase (front and side views) on a
good-quality light-colored plywood. It will be
an excellent and accurate reference through-
out the whole building process (see “Full-
Scale Drawings”).
Making the Sides
and Shelves
Gluing up the stock
The smallest shelf is 93⁄ 4 in. deep, and the base
of the sides is 131⁄ 2 in. Unless you have access
to some wide ash, you’ll have to make the
shelves and sides from two pieces.

Full-Scale Drawings
Full-scale drawings may seem like overkill, but they are tremen-
dously useful, especially when the piece is complex.
An accurate full-scale drawing lets you take all your measure-
ments from it as you work. You don’t have to fiddle with cut lists
and calculate joints and details in your head. Just put a ruler on
the drawing, and you have your measurement.
They’re also helpful to visually evaluate the size and propor-
tions of the piece. If you want to adapt a design to a different
space or to hold some specific objects, the full-scale drawing
helps you see what it will look like. Scale drawings can tell you
only so much. Subtle changes that would be all but invisible in a
small drawing can be quite dramatic full size.
To transfer angles from the drawing to a workpiece or machine,
use a large protractor gauge, such as one made by CCKL Creator
(available from Lee Valley Tools). It is much larger than a standard
bevel gauge, and it allows a greater reach on the drawing and
greater accuracy. It also allows you to read the actual angle. This
makes resetting it a cinch, which isn’t necessarily the case with a
standard bevel gauge.

Photo A: The bookcase sides and shelves are

wide (91⁄ 2 in. to 131⁄ 2 in.), and have to be
glued up from two or more pieces.

84 TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE
1. If you can, resaw 8/4 stock for the sides
and book-match them. I couldn’t book-match
the bookcase you see in the photos with the
ash I had, but it is certainly worth the trouble.
2. If you use unmatched boards, choose the
best match of grain and color for the sides,
and decide if you want the glue joint parallel
with the straight back or with the tapered
edge on the front. I chose parallel to the back,
which seemed the least obvious.
3. Glue up all the stock for the bookcase
shelves and sides at once (see photo A).

Beveling ends
and tapering sides
1. Cut the sides to length, but not at
90 degrees. The sides lean inward toward each
other at 3 degrees, so crosscut the top and
bottom edges at 93 degrees to the floor (or
87 degrees, depending from which direction
you measure). This way when the bookcase
sits on the floor, the bottom sits flat and the
top edges are horizontal. Make sure the edges
are parallel when finished.
2. The front edge of the bookcase has a taper
(though the back does not). Lay it out by
measuring from the back edge of each side
131⁄ 2 in. at the bottom and 91⁄ 2 in. at the top.
Then draw a line between the marks.
3. Cut the taper along the line. I use a Festo
circular saw that has a straightedge guide
that’s great for this kind of cut. It leaves a very
smooth and straight edge (see photo B). The
taper can also be rough-cut with a jigsaw and
cleaned up with a straightedge and a router.
4. Cut the top and bottom shelf blanks a little
wider than necessary and 31⁄ 2 in. longer than
the outside width of the case at their loca-
tions. This allows for the through tenons.
5. Later, after these shelves are installed, mark
the exact depth from the sides, then rip a
3-degree bevel on the front edge. Then rip the
back edge at 90 degrees.
Photo B: A circular saw and straightedge guide make cutting the
tapers on the sides a cinch.
Joinery Tip: Standard bevel
gauges should be
Cutting the mortises set once and left set
The mortises that are used to join the top and until you’ve finished
bottom shelves to the sides are the trickiest with every similar
part of this piece because they are angled and angle. However, to
have to be cut cleanly to within a very close give memory to a
tolerance—as does all the joinery in this bevel gauge, trace
piece—because it all shows. the whole blade of
the bevel gauge on
1. Make two router jigs, a right-handed one
a scrap of plywood.
and a left-handed one, to cut the four mortises
in the sides at a 3-degree angle (see “Jig for
Routing Angled Mortises” on p. 86).
2. Attach the alignment fence to the left-
handed jig on the angled edge. It is now set
up to cut the mortises on the front edge of the
left side.
3. Position the jig flush with the top and front
edges on the outside face of the left side.

TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE 85
Jigs for Routing Angled Mortises
To cut the four mortises in the sides, you need two jigs with movable fences. The jigs are
identical except that they are mirror images of each other. One edge of each jig is angled
like the front edge of the bookcase, and the bottoms of each are shimmed at 3 degrees, the
same angle that the bookcase sides lean inward.

Jigs sit in the corners of their

respective sides, and register off
the edges to locate the mortises.
LEFT-SIDE JIG
11⁄ 16”

11⁄ 2”

33⁄ 4”
213⁄ 16”

Wedge holds jig Alignment fence can be

up at 3 degrees moved from front to
back edge of jig for cor-
responding location on
bookcase side.

RIGHT-SIDE JIG

JIG IN USE 43⁄ 4”

Jig 97⁄ 16”

Same angle
as front edge
of bookcase

Wedge 55⁄ 16”

Bookcase side
Hole in jig sized for a 30mm guide
bushing and 3⁄ 8-in. straight bit to cut
a correctly sized mortise.

86 TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE
 Tip: Attach the jig
to the workpiece
with double-sided
tape rather than
clamps because
they can get in the
way of the router.

Photo D: The mortis-

ing jig tilts the router
3 degrees and cuts
Photo C: To cut the through mortises in the sides, you need a left-handed and a the mortise walls at
right-handed router jig. the same angle.

4. Back up the cut on the underside with

some scrap wood. Don’t risk any tearout since
everything shows.
5. Cut the upper mortises on the front edge of
the left side with a plunge router. Advance the
depth of cut in very small increments.
6. Slide the jig down the same side until it is
flush with the bottom, and cut the bottom
mortise on the same side (see photo C).
7. Take the alignment fence off the jig and
attach it to the opposite side of the jig.
8. Move the jig to the back side and repeat
the process for the back mortises (see
photo D).
9. Square up the rounded mortise corners
with a sharp chisel (see photo E).
10. Repeat this process on the other side of
the bookcase but with the other jig.

Photo E: Square up the routed mortises with a sharp chisel.

TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE 87
Cut Sequence for Tenons
A support box attached to a crosscut sled makes a stable platform to cut tenons.
A stop block lets you angle the workpiece.

STEP 1: CUT CHEEKS

Workpiece at 3 degrees

Shelf
Plywood
support box
Rip fence
Stop block

Crosscut sled
Sawblade

STEP 2: CUT SHOULDERS

Short fence
Workpiece at
90 degrees Plywood
Rip fence support box

Crosscut sled

Miter gauge slot Sawblade

STEP 3: REMOVE CENTER PORTION

Jigsaw at 3 degrees

Waste

Completed shelf

88 TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE
Cutting the tenons in the
top and bottom shelves
Choosing one method of tenoning over
another is usually based on experience and
machinery. I use my table saw because I’m
comfortable with this machine and it pro-
duces a cut that requires the least amount of
cleanup. However, feel free to cut the tenons
as you like.

1. Attach a tall fence (actually a plywood box)

to your table-saw crosscut sled at right angles
to the blade.
2. Attach a stop block to the sled, in front of
and parallel to the fence. This stop block is
positioned to catch the edge of the workpiece
that, when leaned back against the fence, is
at 3 degrees to the top of the saw (see “Cut
Sequence for Tenons”).
3. Use the saw fence to position the cut, and
raise the blade to a height that corresponds to
the length of the tenon.
4. Push the sled across the blade to cut what
are essentially the cheeks of the tenons (see
photo F).
5. To cut the tenon shoulders, use the same
jig, but with the stop block removed and the
box fence pivoted 3 degrees relative to the
sawblade (see photo G).
Photo F: A simple table-saw jig positions the workpiece to cut the
angled cheeks of the tenons.
6. Place a short fence against the rip fence to
position the cut and allow the cutoff to fall
clear of the blade and fence.
7. Hold the workpiece against the fence
(90 degrees to the saw table and 3 degrees to
the blade).
8. With the sawblade just high enough to
connect with the previous cut, push the sled
across the blade, making the shoulder cuts.
9. Cut out the center portion with a jigsaw,
with the blade set at 3 degrees.

Photo G: To cut the outside tenon shoulders, reposition Photo H: Clean up the jigsaw cut with a chisel.
the box fence 3 degrees to the blade.

TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE 89

Tip: Remember that the outer wedge faces
have to be perpendicular to the shelf (which is
horizontal) to seat against the vertical outer
walls of the mortise.
10. Pare to the layout lines on each side
with a sharp chisel, making sure to maintain
the 3-degree angle across the shoulder (see
photo H on p. 89).
Cutting the mortises in the
tenons for the wedges
In a perfect world, the wedges would be simple
to fit in the tenons, needing only accurate
measurements and layout. In reality, there is
a lot of fitting to get the wedges just right.
Differences in the size of the mortise as little
as 1⁄ 32 in. can cause the height of the wedge to
vary as much as 1⁄ 4 in.

1. Check the fit of the mortises and tenons

Photo I: A hollow-chisel mortiser with a 3⁄ 8-in.
bit is fast and accurate for cutting the mor-
tises for the wedge.
and make any adjustments necessary.
2. Assemble the case with just the top and bot-
tom two shelves and clamp it tightly together.
3. Precisely mark the parts of the tenons that
protrude past the sides. From these marks, lay
out the mortises in the tenons that will accept
the wedges.
4. Lay out the mortises as wide as the wedges
and 3⁄ 4 in. deep. Though the wedges are only
9⁄ 16 in. thick where they sit tight in the mortises,
you don’t want them to bottom out in their
holes before they pull the shelf up tight.

WEDGED TENON DETAILS

FRONT VIEW SIDE VIEW

5
⁄ 8” Side splayed
3 degrees
33⁄ 8”
13⁄ 4” 1
1 ⁄ 2”
3
⁄ 4”

9
⁄ 16” 21⁄ 2”

Hole in tenon is
slightly deeper than
7
⁄ 16” wedge is thick.
2”
3
⁄ 4”

Back edge, straight Front edge, tapered 3 degrees

90 TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE
5. Working on the top of the shelves, measure
out 9⁄ 16 in. from the marks on the tenons, BANDSAW JIG FOR TAPERING THE WEDGES
draw a line, then measure back 3⁄ 4 in. and
draw another line.
6. Measure out from the center of these lines Jig, body has
3
3-degree taper
⁄ 8 in. in each direction and connect your
Bandsaw
marks. This gives you a 3⁄ 4-in. by 3⁄ 4-in. hole fence
for each wedge (see “Wedged Tenon Details”). Waste
7. Clamp a waste board under each tenon to
prevent tearout on the opposite face when you
cut the mortises.
8. Cut the mortises at 90 degrees using a
3⁄ 8-in. bit in a hollow-chisel mortiser. Nibble

away at the edges of the holes until you reach

the lines (see photo I). A mallet and chisel
will do the work as well, though more slowly.
9. When you’re finished cutting all the holes,
clean them up with a small file. Wedge blank

Making and seating

the wedges
Make the wedges only after the mortises are
cut. It’s far easier to adjust the wedge to fit the
mortise than the other way around.

1. Rip and plane some 3⁄ 4-in.-square strips of

zebrawood and cut them into 33⁄ 8-in. lengths
(make sure you cut a few extra).
2. Make a small, simple carrier jig to hold the
wedges when you cut the tapers on the band-
saw (see “Bandsaw Jig for Tapering the
Wedges”). This jig ensures that all the wedges
are exactly the same size so they fit into their
holes in the same way.
3. Cut the tapers with the jig on the bandsaw.
4. Sand the cut edges of the wedges with a
piece of sandpaper stuck to a flat block of
wood to fine-tune the fit (see photo J). If
everything prior to this has been done with
care, there will be only minor adjustments.
5. Label the wedges so you can return them
to their respective tenons later.

Fitting the middle shelves Photo J: Sand the tapered faces of the wedges until they all sit at
and cutting the biscuit slots the same height.
The four center shelves are attached to the
sides with loose (unglued) biscuits. These
aren’t the easiest biscuit joints to cut because
of the 3-degree angle of the sides.

TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE 91
 BISCUIT SLOT CUTS FOR MIDDLE SHELVES
CUTTING SLOTS IN THE SHELF ENDS
Edge of shelf cut at 3 degrees
CUTTING SLOTS IN THE FACES OF THE SIDES
Fence set at 90 degrees
Biscuit slot
92 TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE
How Far
Should a Wedge
Wedge?
The wedges on my bookcase drop farther
down into their tenons than do the ones
Fence set at 3 degrees
on David Fay’s case. I made my wedges
Shelf a little smaller so they’d go deeper, with
the idea that they’d seat better. And since
this piece can come apart, I thought this
was important. I’m not sure if it makes
Biscuit slot any difference, but it seemed to me that
it would. On the downside, I think the
higher wedges look a little bit better.
So there you go: Life is full of uncertainty
and compromise.
1. Assemble the case, install the wedges, and
make sure everything is tight.
2. Measure up from the bottom shelf, marking
the location of the top of each shelf on both
sides of the case.
Plywood fence 3. Measure horizontally across the bookcase
face with a straightedge and connect these
Inside face
marks. This gives you the width of each shelf
(on the top face).
4. Starting with shelf blanks slightly over-
sized in width and length, crosscut one edge
of each on your table saw using the miter
Bookcase side gauge set at 90 degrees and the blade tilted
to 3 degrees.
5. Creep up on the finished width bit by bit,
checking the fit on the case after each cut.
Each shelf should fit tight but not bulge the
sides or affect the fit of the other shelves.
6. Rip the front edges of the shelves at
3 degrees as well, sizing them 1⁄ 8 in. narrower
than the depth of the case at each shelf loca-
tion. When installed, the shelves will sit flush
with the back and be recessed 1⁄ 8 in. from the
front of the case.
7. Cut biscuit slots in the edges of the
shelves, two to an edge. Reference these slots
from the top of the shelves with the fence of
your biscuit joiner set at 3 degrees (see
“Biscuit Slot Cuts for Middle Shelves”).
8. Knock down the bookcase before you cut
the biscuit slots in the sides.
9. Draw layout lines across the sides at
90 degrees to the back, starting from the
marks that indicate where the tops of the
shelves intersect the sides.
10. Lay a piece of plywood along these lines
to act as a fence for the biscuit joiner.
11. Cut the biscuit slots in the sides, position-
ing the joiner against the fence and plunging
it in at 90 degrees to the side.

Finishing
and Final Assembly
Rounding the edges
1. When you complete all the parts, do a
final check for fit, fuss with anything that may
still be bugging you, and disassemble the
bookcase.
2. Work all the edges of the mortises and the
holes for the wedges with a file to make the
piece look soft and rounded. Round them
until they have about a 1⁄ 8-in. radius on their
edges.
3. Slightly round all the edges of the tenons,
wedges, shelves, and sides with sandpaper to Photo K: The entire bookcase knocks down into a small pile of flat,
the same 1⁄ 8-in. radius. small pieces—very handy for transportation.
4. Sand everything to 180 grit.

Applying the finish
At David Fay’s suggestion I finished the piece
with several coats of Formby’s low-gloss tung
oil. I felt an oil finish was important for a
knockdown piece. Frequent assembly and
disassembly would easily damage a harder,
lacquered finish, and the wedges would, in all
likelihood, scratch the finish around them
when taken in and out. Oil finishes wear in
these ways much better than lacquer finishes
and are easily repaired when they dry out or
become worn.
With this bookcase, final assembly is,
frankly, optional. As a knockdown bookcase,
it goes together and comes apart easily. And
after you test-fit everything and finish all the
pieces, the first thing you may want to do is
knock it down to take it somewhere (see
photo K).

TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE 93
FAZER UMA SHOP-MADE EASY-TO-
ENVERGADURA CLAMP-ON ROUTER
TABLE
PUBLICADO EM 1 DE JUNHO DE 2009 POR GUIDO HENN
45

Para guardar um
pouco de dinheiro e fazer mais uso de sua bancada de trabalho, o autor construiu sua própria tabela de roteador rápido
e fácil.
A tabela do router não tem que custar uma fortuna ou pesar uma tonelada
de entregar resultados profissionais. -thick Topo nem sequer exigem uma
base de gabinete ou legset de uma "Minha versão -.. Ele simplesmente as
braçadeiras para a minha bancada O projeto apresenta uma grade de
separação ajustável com coleta de poeira, além de um elevador router feita
a partir de hardware centro-home ordinária por remoção três pares de
parafusos de transporte e wingnuts, eu posso remover o elevador, roteador
e cerca facilmente para armazenamento conveniente.
 O autor projetou seu elevador
para caber seu roteador, então você pode precisar fazer pequenos ajustes, dependendo do router que você usou.
Eu projetei o meu router elevador para atender meu Festool OF 1400
mergulhar roteador, porque ele mergulha sem a necessidade de envolver
uma alavanca de liberação. O elevador pode trabalhar com outros
roteadores, também, mas estudar os desenhos com cuidado para verificar a
compatibilidade com o equipamento.
Instalando o roteador na Tabela

Marque o posicionamento para o seu

roteador na base de branco, o caminho para sair um "recesso -deep 3/4 no espaço em branco para onde o seu router
vai sentar-se.
A começar com o projeto por rasgar e transversais a mesa e dois blocos de
montagem (peças 1 e 2) para tamanho. Aviso Nos desenhos e as fotos à
direita que, em vez de pendurar o roteador de uma placa removível, I fazem
uso das duas hastes guia ponta de metal que vêm de fábrica com a
ferramenta. O meu router senta-se em um "recesso -deep 3/4 moída na face
inferior da tabela. Os blocos de montagem prender as hastes guia em
ranhuras na mesa, e isso é o que mantém a máquina no lugar em vez de
parafusos.

Use um pouco de arestas para mill as

ranhuras para as hastes de guia do seu roteador, tornando-meia o diâmetro da haste.
Se o seu roteador não tem hastes de guia, em seguida, você precisará
modificar a mesa para aceitar uma placa de tabela de roteador ou
simplesmente montar a base para a mesa com parafusos.

Ranhuras Rout em blocos de

montagem para fixar as hastes contra a mesa, em seguida, prenda-os à tabela em branco com parafusos de transporte
e wingnuts.
Para esses roteadores com trilhos de guia, montá-los pela primeira
centragem e bloqueio das hastes de guia na base do roteador. Posicione o
roteador sobre a mesa em branco, e traçar as bases e haste formas para
isso. Desbaratar o recesso à mão livre de base roteador com um pouco em
linha reta em uma série de aprofundamento passes. Agora, mudar para uma
caixa de núcleo ou um pouco em linha reta com um diâmetro de corte que
corresponde ao diâmetro da haste guia.Executar o seu router contra uma
régua apertada para derrotar um par de sulco raso para as hastes de guia
para a tabela. Faça sua profundidade com o raio das hastes. Moinho de
pares correspondentes ranhuras da haste entre os blocos de
montagem. Espaço para estes alinham perfeitamente com os da
tabela. Finalmente, defina o roteador no lugar, ajustar os blocos de
montagem sobre as hastes e perfurar um único, centrado 3/8 "furo passante
-diâmetro através de ambos os blocos e mesa.
Para diagramas e materiais lista de tabela de roteador em formato PDF,
clique aqui.
1/4 "counterbores -Deep no tabletop de recesso das cabeças dos parafusos
de transporte (peças 17) que irá anexar os blocos de montagem. Parafuso o
roteador no lugar, e usar um 1/4" bit direto para mergulhar um buraco no
mesa. Ele marca o ponto central de seus bits.
Montagem do Elevador Router

Use cola e biscoitos para montar a estrutura para

o elevador roteador, a parte superior do quadro irá tornar-se o bloco de montagem router traseira.
Framework open meu roteador de elevador usa o bloco de montagem
traseiro como o seu pedaço de topo. Ele tem uma manivela rodada que
transforma um varão roscado através de uma porca capturado entre a base
do elevador e suporte.A haste empurra contra uma pequena placa elevador
para mover o roteador. Começar a construir a estrutura de elevação,
cortando pedaços 3, 4, 5, 6 e 10 de tamanho e forma.
Alinhe o suporte elevador alinhada com uma das extremidades da base de
elevador, e marcar o ponto central dessas peças. Use uma furadeira para
perfurar um "buraco -diâmetro através de ambas as peças em seus pontos
centrais para encaixar a haste roscada (peça 8). Perfure um 5/8" buraco 5/8
centrada através da manivela rodada também. Então mude para um 1 "-
diâmetro Forstner pouco para perfurar um rebaixo na face interna do
suporte de elevação. Sua profundidade deve coincidir com a espessura da
porca capturado (peça 9). Toque a porca para este rebaixamento.
 Uma vez que o quadro de elevador foi montado,
passar o conjunto de manivela através do suporte elevador, cabendo a haste através do orifício base e parafuso-los
juntos.
Biscuit e cole o bloco de montagem, levante os lados e base para formar a
estrutura de elevação. Oriente o bloco de montagem para o lado de fenda
enfrenta fora. Em seguida, deu à luz um "buraco -diâmetro através do
centro de seu botão de manivela (peça 7) e outro buraco através da
manivela rodada, 3/4" 5/16 dentro de sua borda. Montar o botão e pôr em
marcha com um "x 2-1/2" bolt 5/16 carruagem e um par de porcas
apertados juntos. Usar os restantes dois grandes porcas para fixar a
manivela para a extremidade da haste roscada. Enrole a haste através da
porca capturado e ajustá-lo para o buraco base de elevador. Fixe o suporte
de elevação para a base com cola e parafusos.

Para marcar as posições dos parafusos na placa

de elevador, o autor definir quatro parafusos de madeira nos buracos na tampa do motor do seu roteador, estes irão
manter o prato do elevador de giro durante o arranque após a montagem final.
A tampa do motor no meu router Festool tem quatro orifícios dos parafusos
da máquina profundas moldadas na parte superior. A fim de impedir que a
placa router elevador (peça 10) de girar em torno de quando eu girar a
manivela do elevador, eu dirigi quatro parafusos de madeira parcialmente
na placa, alinhando suas cabeças com o padrão de furos na tampa do
motor. Dessa forma, as cabeças dos parafusos salientes envolver o roteador
sem realmente prender a ela.(Nota: Você pode precisar modificar a forma
como o prato do elevador faz contato com o roteador se a sua tampa do
motor é projetado de forma diferente ou se ventilador de resfriamento
interno da ferramenta deve desabafar através dele.)

Para completar o conjunto de elevador, ajustá-lo

ao longo do parafuso de carruagem no bloco de montagem traseiro, aperte a porca de orelhas para prendê-lo, e pôr em
marcha a vara até que seja contra a placa de elevador.
Perfure um 5/8 "buraco -diâmetro rasa no prato do elevador para caber
sobre o fim da haste de rosca. Ajuste a placa do elevador no topo do
roteador, e fecha o elevador router para a mesa. Crank a haste até que
assente em o buraco prato do elevador.
Fazer o Fence

Cortar dois slots através da base do muro perto

de cada extremidade, este é o lugar onde você vai montar a cerca para a mesa e ser capaz de fazer os ajustes.
Meu split-fence é fácil de construir. Corte a base de cerca e volta (peças 11
e 12) com o tamanho, e lay out pares de fendas para parafusos de fixação
em ambas as partes. Use sua broca e serra ou um roteador e um "bit reta -
diâmetro 3/8 para formar esses slots. Mark e cortar grandes aberturas bit
roteador da cerca agora, também.
Quatro chaves triangulares (peças 13) endurecer o muro de volta e
quadrado-lo à base. Faça essas chaves agora.

Corte # 20 slots de biscoitos para as chaves, em

seguida, anexar a base da cerca à volta de 90 °, com biscoitos e cola e, em seguida, prenda-os para cima.
Você está pronto para montar o cerca. Retire seu marceneiro biscuit e corte
# 20 ranhuras na base, para trás e chaves.Cole e prenda a volta para a base,
certificando-se que eles são quadrado. Em seguida, cole nas hastes.

Faça um furo com rebaixo através de cada um

voltado para cerca, centrado através das fendas horizontais no apoio cerca, em seguida, anexar o seu enfrentando com
parafusos de carruagem, arruelas e wingnuts.
Em seguida, vêm os revestimentos de vedação (peças 14). Eu sugiro que
você cortá-los a partir de uma longa tira de madeira compensada para
assegurar que as suas espessuras irá combinar perfeitamente. Miter-cortar
as pontas que se reunirão em meio a 45 °. Cuidadosamente colocar para
fora e faça um furo e rebaixo 3/8 "-diâmetro através de parafusos em cada
cerca enfrentando. Monte os revestimentos em cima do muro de volta com
parafusos de carruagem, arruelas e wingnuts (peças 17). Faça dois furos
para os parafusos de carruagem pelo tabela para fixar a vedação através de
seus slots.
Por último vem a placa porta de poeira (peça 15). Cortá-la ao tamanho, e
bisel-mitra as extremidades. Corte um buraco através dela que se adapta à
sua loja bocal da mangueira vac. Fixar a placa na cerca dos fundos entre as
chaves do meio com uma dobradiça (peça 16).
Completando os detalhes finais
Você ainda precisa cortar uma abertura maior na mesa para fresas para
passar. Use um buraco viu equipado com um 1/4 "mandril centro para
ampliar o orifício piloto pouco você criou anteriormente. Dependendo de
sua coleção pouco, um único furo pode trabalhar com todos os bits que
você possui. A 1-1/2" buraco -diâmetro vai acomodar muitos estilos
bits. Ou, você pode fazer anéis de inserção. Desmontar a mesa e cortar um
"slot de -wide 3/4 na borda da frente para caber bar graminho sua mesa de
serra. Moinho-lo com um pouco em linha reta em seu roteador ou usando
uma lâmina de dado. Dê todas as partes do projeto um lixamento
minucioso, e aplicar alguns revestimentos de acabamento duradouro.
Quando o acabamento seca, eu recomendo a adição de um interruptor de
segurança para que você possa ligar o roteador e desligar facilmente ou
rapidamente em caso de emergência. Agora, aparafusar as partes juntas,
fixar a tabela ao seu banco e está tudo pronto para roteamento.
PUBLICADO EM 1 DE JUNHO DE 2009 POR GUIDO HENN
Cedar Garden Bench
Illustration by James Provost
Whether you place this bench in a quiet corner of your garden or beside the door as a convenient place to
rest when putting on your shoes or to set down your bags as you unlock the door, this simple project can
be easily completed in a weekend. The bench is comprised of a top, apron and four legs; a shop-made
template, bandsaw, and a portable hand sander are all you will need to make the curved legs. You’ll also
need access to a jointer and thickness planer for the other parts. All the pieces for this project can be made
from commonly available dimensional deck lumber. If you have trouble locating the thicker pieces, you
can easily glue up thinner cedar fence boards.

The Top
The top (A) on this bench started out as a couple of cedar 2 x 6’s. Cut the 2 x 6 stock 1" longer than the
final length, and then use a jointer and thickness planer to dress the pieces to the final thickness. Joint one
edge of each board to remove the rounded edges and then raise up the cutter head on your planer and pass
the pieces through on edge so that the other edge can be squared up. Use a cross cut sled on the table saw
to square up one end and then use a stop block on the sled to cut the pieces to the same length.

To ensure perfect alignment during the glue-up you can use a dowelling jig or biscuit joiner to facilitate
alignment of the pieces. While this is not necessary for a successful glue-up, it significantly reduces the
sanding time resulting from misaligned boards. Apply glue to the joints (check the boards for alignment if
you are not using dowels or biscuits), and tighten the clamps carefully to avoid damaging the soft cedar
edges.

When the glue has cured, trim the panel to ensure a straight edge at each end. To continue the line of the
curve suggested by the legs, tilt your table saw blade over to 80º and undercut the ends using a cross cut
sled on the table saw. Undercutting the sides on a right hand tilt table saw will pinch the top between the
fence and the blade, setting up the conditions for a dangerous kickback. You are best to make this cut on
the jointer by tilting the fence and taking several passes until the required material has been removed.

The hard edge on the seat must be broken and this is best done on a router table. Install a ½" round over
bit in the router table and use a fence to limit the amount of the cutting edge that is exposed to the outer
portion of the bit. This will create a soft curve at the edge without having the complete round over ruin
the undercut profile of the top. You can now finish sand both sides of the top.

Securing tops with Z clips

 The Apron
Mill the long (B) and short (C) aprons from either a 2 x 6 cedar or some 5/4 deck boards. With these
pieces milled to the correct cross sectional dimension, cut them to length. Use a dowelling jig to drill
seven dowel holes in the end of each board for the leg to apron joints. Set up the table saw to cut a groove
⅜" down from the top edge on the inside face of the apron for the Z-Clips, leevalley.com, that will hold
the top in place. Sand each of these pieces for finishing.

The customer I was making this bench for requested that I include his favourite quote by one of the great
thinkers of the 20th century. I used a CNC router to carve the inscription into the front apron, but this
could also be done using a router with template guides or the old-fashioned way, by hand with a fine
carving knife (preferrededge.ca).

The Legs
The legs are the only portion of this project that might throw you a curve; two actually. Each of the legs
has a concave face on the two faces that face out from the bench. Adding a curve to a project gives it a
sense of movement and makes its outline seem a lot less blocky. The two curves in each leg serve to
visually lighten the look of the bench; by removing a little material from each leg, the appearance of the
entire bench changes dramatically. I found some rough cedar 4 x 4’s at the local yard but dressed stock
would work just as well, although you will need to reduce the cross sectional dimension just a little to
accommodate the smaller stock. When choosing stock for the legs, pay particular attention to the grain.
Try to choose material that has the grain running straight up the leg on all four sides as this will result in a
clean appearance on the final leg; flat grain showing on the legs would give the bench a confusing and
busy look. If you can only find pieces with vertical grain on two or three sides, use the straight-grained
sides for the curved faces and orient the flat grain to face inwards.

Mill the rough stock into flat square blanks for each leg. Use a cross cut sled on the table saw to cut them
all to the exact same length. Again, use a dowelling jig to drill dowel holes in the two inside faces of each
leg for the leg-to-apron connection.

Before cutting the curves on the leg stock, take the time to make a pattern so that all eight cuts will be
identical. Cut a piece of MDF to the same size as the leg, and use a drawing batten or a 24" stainless steel
ruler to trace a gentle curve onto the MDF. Then cut this out using a bandsaw. If you plan on using this
template with a bearing-guided router in the future, take the time to smooth the curve with a sander. If
you will only be using it to trace the curve onto the legs, such as in this case, the band-sawn edge should
be smooth enough.

Place the template onto the leg stock and then trace out the curves on the two outside faces. Cut these
curves out on the bandsaw in one slow, smooth operation. Set the off-cuts aside as they will be needed
during assembly. Take your time cutting this thick stock or you may find that your blade wanders or you
may find yourself with a barrel shaped cut. Before making the cut, check to see that your bandsaw table is
90º to the blade or you will have additional sanding to do to square it up again.

Using the largest drum on an oscillating spindle sander, remove the saw marks from the curved faces.
Keep the legs moving against the drum or you will end up with a series of ridges running across the face
of the piece. If you don’t have a spindle sander, you can use files and sandpaper attached to a contoured
block of wood. After removing the saw marks, use a random orbit sander to sand the legs for finishing.
Use a sander, block plane or file, to slightly round over the bottom edge of the legs to keep the sharp
corner from snagging on something and chipping out.

The Finish
Glue that gets onto cedar will make a mess of any finish you plan on using so it is best to finish these
pieces completely before assembly. The finish you put on this bench will be determined by where it will
be placed. If you are placing this bench outdoors, then a finish that will protect it from sun and rain is
required unless you want the bench to fade to the natural gray appearance that cedar takes on when
exposed to the elements. Early on in my woodworking career I used a film forming finish on cedar and
while I still have some of the pieces I built a dozen years ago, they no longer have any finish on them.
Cedar is a very soft wood and will dent and deform much easier than the finish covering it, so wherever
there is a ding, the finish separates and allows water underneath. Eventually the moisture under the finish
causes it to peel off almost completely. I now use a non-film forming finish for outdoor cedar projects as
these can easily be renewed every year without the need to strip off old finish completely. As this bench
 was destined to be placed in an enclosed front porch, an easily repairable coat of Tung oil and wax is all
that was required.

A web clamp makes for quick and easy assembly

The Assembly
Place some glue into the dowel holes in each leg and then insert the dowels. Because the dowel holes are
drilled on adjacent faces, they will intersect and you will need to insert 2" dowels into the holes on one
face and 1 ½" dowels into the holes on the other face. Be sure these have bottomed out completely in the
holes. Place some glue into the holes on the ends of the apron pieces and assemble the base of the bench.
To apply clamping pressure, use the off-cuts from the legs that you had set aside earlier and place them
over the curves so that you have a square surface to clamp to. To keep the legs open and parallel as they
are clamped, cut some spacers to the same dimensions as the aprons and set them between the bottom
edges of the legs. As I mentioned, cedar is very soft and if there are any saw marks or ridges on the off-
cuts, the clamping pressure will transfer these to the sanded faces of the legs. Place some form of gasket
material between the two surfaces to prevent this; I keep a roll of sill gasket on hand for these occasions
but the thin foam packing film that surrounds electronics in transit will also work for this purpose. When
the glue in the base has set, turn it upside down on the inverted top and use the Z-Clips to fasten the base
to the top.

You’re bound to get a lot of great compliments over this project, and hints about upcoming birthdays and
anniversaries, so you might want to consider making several at a time.

MICHAEL KAMPEN
 Rock-Solid
Plywood
Bench
Build this versatile workbench
in a weekend for under $250
B Y C E C I L B R A E D E N

54 FINE WOODWORKING
 72 in. 33 in.

Overhang
determined 19 1 ⁄2 in.
by vise size. 321 ⁄2 in.
10 in.

91 ⁄2 in.

54 7⁄8 in. 231 ⁄2 in.

Pocket hole for

BENCHTOP DETAIL
Center apron slat, attaching top
MDF, ⁄ in. thick
34

31 ⁄2 in. wide by
54 7⁄8 in. long
Solid edging,
⁄ in. thick
34

Plywood,
3⁄ 4 in. thick
Outer apron slat,
31 ⁄2 in. wide by

I had wanted to build a sturdy workbench for some 47 7⁄8 in. long
time but was put off by the cost and complexity
of a traditional hardwood bench. I knew that such Upper center leg slat,
31 ⁄2 in. wide by
benches derive much of their strength and rigidity 19 1 ⁄2 in. long
from the mortises and tenons that join the framework,
and I wondered if there was a way to combine this
joinery with the inherent strength, rigidity, and dimen-
sional accuracy of plywood. The design I created has Outer leg slat,
a base of laminated sections of plywood and a top of 31 ⁄2 in. wide by
321 ⁄2 in. long
plywood and medium-density fiberboard (MDF).
An advantage of this design is that the piece can be
built without a planer or jointer, perfect for someone
just getting started in woodworking. For under $250
including a vise, I have a bench with the rigidity I de-
sired without breaking the bank.

Design the bench, create a cut plan, and begin Stretcher, same
This method of construction can be adapted to almost dimensions as
apron
any size and type of bench: You could even construct
just the base and purchase a ready-made hardwood Deck screw,
top. My bench is 33 in. wide by 72 in. long by 34 in. 3 in. long
tall, a comfortable height for me to work at. It is also
1⁄ 8 in. lower than my tablesaw, allowing me to use the
BUILT-IN JOINERY
bench as an auxiliary outfeed table. The cut plan I
used (see p. 56) allows you to create a bench with legs The aprons and legs are
made from laminated
up to 36 in. long, giving a bench height of 371⁄ 2 in. strips of 3⁄4-in. birch
All base components—legs, aprons, and stretch- plywood. The tenons and
ers—are laminations made from 39⁄16-in.-wide slats of mortises are created
3⁄4-in.-thick plywood. Set the tablesaw’s fence and rip Lower center leg during the lamination
slat, 31 ⁄2 in. wide process, eliminating the
all the strips without changing the setting. You always by 6 in. long need to cut joinery later.

Photos: Mark Schofield; drawings: Chuck Lockhart TOOLS & SHOPS 2006 55
MAKE
THE MOST OUTER LEG SLATS UPPER CENTER
LEG SLATS
O F YO U R
P LY WO O D First
cut OUTER APRON/STRETCHER SLATS
If you decide to build a
bench that is the same
size as mine, or one Waste used for assembly jigs.
that is slightly taller, use
these cut plans. I used
21 ⁄2 sheets of 4x8 birch OUTER APRON/STRETCHER SLATS
plywood and a sheet
of MDF from my local
home center. Have your
plywood seller make the 221 ⁄2 in.
first and second cuts as CENTER APRON/STRETCHER SLATS OUTER LEG SLATS
shown to ease handling
the material.
Other materials
needed are 2-, 21 ⁄2-,
and 3-in.-long deck
screws, and a quart of
fresh PVA woodworking First cut 231 ⁄2 in.
glue. I’ve used both
Titebond II and III, but
particularly in hot, dry
conditions, glues with
extended open times
make alignment of the
laminations easier. BENCHTOP
END
The top consists of a layer of 3⁄4-in. plywood
topped with 3⁄4-in. MDF.

Second cut

OUTER LEG SLATS OUTER LEG SLATS END

15 in.
SPARE SLAT SPARE SLAT

LOWER CENTER SPACERS FOR LEG GLUE-UPS

LEG SLATS
will get some tearout when you cut plywood: This
can be minimized with a zero-clearance insert on the
tablesaw, but in any case rip with the show side of the
plywood up. If you do get some tearout, lightly sand
away any splinters and keep the tearout side inward
The two optional when assembling the components.
shelves come out UPPER SHELF
of a half sheet The last step before laminating the components is to
of 3⁄4-in.-thick drill pocket holes every 6 in. on one side of the two
plywood. outer apron pieces to attach the top with pocket screws.
Or you can use the battens described on p. 58.

Glue-up requires quick work, attention to detail

LOWER SHELF Even with glue that has a moderate amount of open
time, you must work quickly, so do a dry run first and
have all components in order. I apply the glue to all
mating surfaces with a disposable brush that has the
bristles trimmed, but a roller would work. Glue the
laminates on a flat surface protected by waxed paper.

56 FINE WOODWORKING

Construct the aprons and stretchers. These parts consist of a center strip of plywood that
includes the two tenons, and two shorter outer strips that form the shoulders of the tenon.
Have multiple clamps ready for use.
Assemble and glue stretchers and aprons—Make
sure all like pieces are trimmed to exactly the same
length. Draw a line 31⁄ 2 in. from both ends of the
longer center-slat pieces, and mark the ends of both
sides with an “X” to indicate non-glue areas. If you
are using pocket holes on the aprons, make sure the
holes are facing outward and upward.
Glue the three pieces of each component together,
being careful not to get any glue on the tenon ends.
Turn the assembly on edge so that the plies are facing
up and insert one end in the apron jig (see drawing,
top right). As you apply clamping pressure, keep the
slats aligned and pushed against the jig to maintain
the 31⁄ 2-in. tenon and even cheeks. When the glue is
dry, run both exposed-ply sides of each component
through the tablesaw to clean them up.
Next, make the legs—Prior to assembly, make the
spacer blocks (see photos, p. 58) and wrap about 5
in. of each with clear tape. Used to create the lower
mortise on each leg, the spacer is driven out after the
leg has dried. Tape prevents glue from sticking to the
spacer. The leg stack consists of two outside slats, the
lower center piece, the spacer, the upper center piece,
and two more outside slats. Locate the upper and
lower mortise areas and mark both mating surfaces so
that you will remember not to apply glue there.
A simple L-shaped jig helps to lay up the legs ac-
curately. Glue the slats together, remembering to in-
A SIMPLE JIG AIDS
A P RO N A S S E M B LY
When gluing the stretchers and aprons,
use a jig to align the center slat at the
proper offset to create the tenon.
31 ⁄2 in.
⁄ in.
34
sert the spacer. After assembly, turn the stack so that
the spacer is sticking up. Using both sides of the jig,
keep the ends and edges of each slat in perfect align-
ment and the center slats pressed tightly against the
spacer as you apply clamping pressure. Apply two
small clamps to both outside pairs of slats that form
the upper mortise.
After the glue has set, make cleanup cuts on the
Tip:
tablesaw. Use sandpaper to slightly chamfer the bottom Once you
edges of the finished legs to prevent splintering of the spread the
outer veneer if the bench is dragged across the floor.
glue you’ll
Assemble the frame sides, have to work
then join them with plywood panels
Start by dry-fitting the tenon on each end of a stretcher
q u i c k l y, s o
into its respective mortise. If a tenon extends beyond do a dr y run
the leg, trim it flush or slightly recessed. Lay a leg on a
first and
flat surface protected with waxed paper. Apply glue to
the mortise-and-tenon, then insert the tenon and clamp have all the
lightly. Use a carpenter’s square to bring the stretcher components
and leg to exactly 90°, and tighten the clamp. Remove
the excess glue with a damp cloth, put the joint aside i n o r d e r.
to set, and assemble the second leg and stretcher.
Once the glue has set, remove the clamps and lay
the leg/stretcher down with the inside facing up. Drill
four countersunk pilot holes at least 21⁄ 2 in. deep in-
to each joint and drive in waxed 3-in. deck screws.
Reinforcing the joints in this manner may not be
TOOLS & SHOPS 2006 57
 GLUING THE LEGS

Clamping the
leg. When the sec-
tions have been
glued together,
turn the assembly
upward and apply
the clamps. Waxed
paper protects
the work surface.
When the glue has
dried, knock out
the taped spacer
block with a mallet
and a thin piece of
wood to reveal the
mortise.

Leg assembly. Insert a taped spacer block to hold open the lower mortise. An
L-shaped jig keeps the sections aligned. Use a generous amount of glue, but don’t
apply glue to those areas that face the spacer block.

necessary, but it is very cheap insurance that the joints

will hold forever.
Stand the assembly on the floor with the stretcher
pointing up. Place waxed paper under the apron mor-
tise; apply glue to the mortise and insert an apron
tenon, being sure the pocket holes are oriented prop-
erly. Check for 90º and clamp the apron with a bar
clamp. When the joint is dry, reinforce it with screws
and then attach the other leg in the same manner.
The benchtop should rest on the aprons, not the
legs, so if the top of a leg is higher than the apron
tenon, trim it flush. Sand the exposed joints on the
legs to remove glue residue.
If you are not using pocket screws to attach the top,
prepare a couple of 2-in.-square battens with counter-
sunk holes in two directions. Clamp the battens flush
with the top inside edge of the aprons and attach them
with 3-in. deck screws.
Stand the front and rear assemblies on their legs
on a level floor, and cut two pieces of plywood to fit
between the stretchers and aprons and to the desired
width of the frame. These sides will serve as the end
stretchers. There will be space to install an end vise
above the side of the bench if desired. Chamfer the
edges of the sides. Drill countersunk holes every 3 in.,
13⁄4 in. in from both edges to locate the screws in the
center ply of the legs. Clamp the sides in place with
the edges flush with the outside edges of the legs. Be Clean up the edges. After the legs, aprons, and stretchers have been assembled, run
sure to check that the frame is square by measuring both edges past a sawblade to clean up glue residue and leave them at the final 31⁄2-in.
the diagonal between opposite corners; adjust until the width. Cut the first edges with the fence at 39⁄16 in., and the opposite edges at 31⁄2 in.

58 FINE WOODWORKING
distances are even, then tighten the clamps. Now drill
pilot holes 11⁄ 2 in. deep through the previously drilled
countersunk holes, and drive 21⁄ 2-in. deck screws.
Next, add two plywood shelves, the lower one at-
tached to the front and rear stretchers with 2-in. screws,
and the upper one screwed to battens attached with
3-in. screws through the end stretchers into the legs.
Because the shelves, sides, and top are screwed on, the
whole bench can be disassembled for moving.

Make and attach the top

If you are making your own top, lay the layers upside
down, making sure one end of the assembly is flush, and
screw them together using countersunk screws that will
not go through the top layer. Cut the other sides flush
using a circular saw and straightedge or the tablesaw.
Ask a friend to help place the top on the frame and
position as desired. Mark the corners of the legs on
the underside of the top. Then turn the top over and
mark the holes for the vise(s) on the bottom side so
that you can drill small holes through. You may have
to add a spacer block to bring the vise jaws level with
the top. Turn the top back over and use a spade bit
to drill recesses for the bolt heads at each of the small
holes. Then drill for the bolts and attach the vise. At
this point you can attach the top: Place it on the bench
frame and secure it with the pocket holes or battens.
To protect the soft edge of the MDF top, I screwed
a solid wood edging around the entire benchtop,
leaving a gap for the vise. Drill holes for bench-dogs
(if desired), and you are done. If you plan to use
this bench primarily for glue-ups or finishing, a good
choice would be to laminate the top; otherwise, apply
a clear finish or just leave it natural. 

Cecil Braeden is a woodworker near Anacortes, Wash.

ASSEMBLING THE BASE

1
Begin with the frame
sides. Insert the stretch-
er and apron into the leg,
making sure they meet at
exactly 90° (1). Reinforce
the joints with four 3-in.
deck screws. With the
side frame resting on
the floor, add the second
leg (2). Finally, add the
plywood end stretch-
ers (3). Clamp them in
place, check the base for
squareness, then attach
with screws.

2 3

TOOLS & SHOPS 2006 59