TRANSPORTE DE MUDAS DE RAIZ NUA

JUSTIFICATIVA: A oferta de material clonal para plantio e/ou intercmbio entre as diversas regies produtoras de cacau tem sido feita por meio de hastes, que so usadas, principalmente, em enxertia e em alguns casos em estaquia. Este processo muitas vezes leva a uma baixa eficincia de pegamento, alm de um retardamento no desenvolvimento das mudas. Este problema tambm se deve ao fato das longas distncias entre as regies produtoras, Bahia, Par, Amazonas, Rondnia, bem como o intercmbio de materiais entre pases produtores (Peru, Equador, etc.) e Centro de pesquisas localizados em outros pases e regioes. A busca de alternativas que visem uma melhoria no processo de envio, garantindo o pegamento, a um custo razovel, o desejvel. Pois, devemos levar em conta que em funo das longas distncias entre estas regies o transporte areo deva ser preferido. A Biofbrica de Cacau produz atualmente uma grande quantidade de mudas que so enviadas para diversas regies do Estado da Bahia e para outros Estados. As mudas so produzidas em tubetes plsticos e enviadas aos seus destinos com estes tubetes. Este processo leva tem apresentado problemas, principalmente, no que diz a taxa de retorno destes tubetes. As longas distncias, muitas vezes, devido ao custo do frete inviabilizam seu envio. Onerando assim os custos de produo das mudas pela necessidade de reposio constate de tubetes. Uma alternativa a este processo de envio das mudas em tubetes seria o transporte das mudas sem o tubete. Deste modo aes devam ser desenvolvidas para se buscar alternativas ao modelo empregado atualmente.

OBJETIVOS: Estabelecer um processo que viabilize o transporte de mudas de estaquia de cacau enraizadas sem o tubete.

Selecionar alternativas de embalagens para envio de mudas de estaquia a curta, mdia e longa distncia, viabilizando o processo a um menor custo. Testar a eficincia do plantio direto das mudas transportadas sem tubetes vs mudas com tubetes. Testar o desenvolvimento destas mudas em campo.

METODOLOGIA Experimento 1. Sistema de transporte Tratamentos: A Tratamento da Raiz: Zero (raiz nua) Vermiculita Hidrogel Aninhagem B Copa: Zero Antitranspirante Humidificantes C Tempo de Transporte: 3 dias 6 dias 9 dias 12 dias Repeties: 4 blocos Plantas Parcela: 15 plantas Unidades Exploratrias: 64 unidades Total de Plantas: 960 unidades As mudas sero transplantadas para sacos de polietileno e avaliadas aps 3 meses de plantio. Experimento 2. Tipos de embalagem utilizadas no transporte de mudas Neste experimento sero testadas algumas alternativas de embalagem para transporte a curto, mdia e longas distncias: Sacos plsticos Caixas de isopor Caixas de papelo Caixas plsticas

Experimento 3. Plantio direto das mudas transportadas sem tubetes vs mudas com tubetes. Este experimento ser instalado em uma propriedade rural, visando avaliar a viabilidade de se plantar direto no campo, as mudas transportada sem o tubete, no havendo a necessidade de transplantio para saquinho. Avaliando seu desenvolvimento no campo
Viveiros com mudas em raiz nua: as mudas em raiz nua so as que no possuem proteo do sistema radicular no momento de plantio. A semeadura feita diretamente nos canteiros e as mudas so retiradas para o plantio, tendo-se apenas o cuidado de se evitar insolao direta ou, at mesmo, vento no sistema radicial. O solo onde se desenvolvem as razes permanece no viveiro. Aps a retirada, so ordenadas em grupos, com material mido envolvendo as razes, antes da expedio para o plantio. Este tipo de viveiro muito difundido no sul do Brasil para Pinus spp. Contudo, algumas espcies promissoras na Amaznia, como o freij Cordia goeldiana, tatajuba - Bagassa guianensis, e marup - Simaruba amara tm demonstrado aptido para plantio com muda em raiz nua em forma de stripling. 4.Viveiro com mudas em recipientes: apresentam o sistema radicial envolto por uma proteo que um substrato que o recipiente contm. Evidentemente, o substrato vai para o campo e colocado nas covas, com as mudas, protegendo as razes. ++++ A muda de laranjeira: deve ser obtida a viveiristas credenciados por rgos oficiais. Deve ser enxerto (por borbulhia) maduro vigoroso, enxertia a 20 cm de altura do solo, com 3 a 4 brotaes (ramos) a 60cm. de altura (espaados para formao da copa) distribuidos em espiral em torno do caule e sistema radicular abundante. mudas em raiz nua exigem mais cuidados; devem ser plantadas com a cova muito molhada, quase um "barro"; vai enchendo a cova aos poucos, procurando-se distribuir bem as razes. O plantio tambm superficial com o colo da muda ficando a 5 cm acima do nvel do solo. terminada a operao de plantio faz-se uma bacia (80 cm de dimetro) ao redor da muda, usando a terra do subsolo. Nesta, aplica-se 30 a 40 litros de gua e faz-se uma cobertura morta, com capim seco, palha de arroz, bagao de cana ou outro material disponvel. Neste momento poderia-se colocar uma estaca de bambu ou madeira para servir como tutor. aos 45 e 90 dias ps plantio, fazer as primeiras adubaes +++ Uma alternativa de produo de mudas atravs de raiz nua, chamada muda-toco. Essa tcnica consiste em podar a planta de forma a reter10cm da raiz pivotante e 2cm do

caule. A muda toco pode ser transplantada para recipientes individuais ou ser plantada diretamente no campo. Como desvantagem tem-se o tempo maior, de quatro a onze meses, para produo das mudas. +++++++++++ Planting Bare Root: There are still bare root roses, berries and trees available in the nurseries. The bare roots of these plants need to soak from an hour to overnight (large plants) in a bucket of water before planting. Trim roots of broken, dead or spongy bits and carefully pull the roots apart. Dig a hole that is fairly shallow and wide. You want to spread the roots out sideways and have the crown of the plant several inches above the soil level. This is necessary as the tree or shrub will 'settle' over time. Water in well and wait to fertilize until you see new shoots growing. Be sure to water regularly if the rains are sparse. An inexpensive water meter from the nursery is very handy to check soil moisture. Staking may not be necessary. More details can be found at +++ If bare-root trees cannot be planted immediately, they can be stored by heeling-in, that is covering the roots with moist earth, or plants can be left for a few days with roots in a bucket of water in a garage. The best time for planting is a cool, overcast day. Planting holes should be large enough to accommodate the root system. Unless roots are extremely long, it is better to dig a bigger hole than to prune roots. Trees need all the roots they have during a transplant, and root pruning is not necessary to stimulate the roots. Broken or damaged roots should, however, be removed ++++ At present, most perennials grown on a commercial scale are shipped to retail nurseries in a bare root form. The typical method for growing the plants includes starting the plants in a greenhouse and then planting them in a field where the roots are free to grow unrestrained in the soil. When the plants have reached full size and are ready to be harvested for shipment, they are dug up from the soil, and the soil is knocked off their roots. Removing the soil from the root system is necessary in order to reduce the considerable weight and bulk of the root ball (the root system and the surrounding soil) resulting from the unrestrained growth of the roots. However, removing the soil has the considerable disadvantage of resulting in significant trauma to the root system and possible damage to the basal plate. In addition, the bare roots are more susceptible to disease and desiccation than roots surrounded by soil would be. If the plants are stored prior to replanting, the roots must be kept moist to prevent the basal plate from drying out. This is commonly done by packing moist peat moss or sawdust around the roots. The trauma to the roots and/or the basal plate and their exposure to disease and desiccation lead to a higher loss rate of plants during storage, shipping, and subsequent attempts to reestablish the plants. The plants that do survive and become reestablished for ultimate sale are of uneven quality since individual plants suffer differing degrees of trauma. In addition to the problems resulting from trauma, disease, and desiccation, the conventional methods for growing, storing, and shipping perennials have the disadvantages of being relatively labor intensive and time consuming and, therefore, expensive to carry out.

++++++++++ Growing, Harvesting, Transporting, Storing and Planting Bare Root Plants SOURCE: http://depts.washington.edu/propplnt/Chapters/Bare%20Root %20Chapter.htm What is a bare root? Technology has changed the industry in many ways over the last 100 years. Prior to the development of the gas engine, all nursery stock was harvested and shipped bare-root due to weight considerations. Bare-root is when a plant and its roots are removed from the soil and sold this way. This limited the harvest and planting season to a few weeks in springtime. Bare-root plant production involves growing plants in rows or beds for one to three years. These plants are then harvested by removing the plants and roots from the soil. These plants may then be sold, planted in soil again or placed in containers to be grown into larger plants. What kind of site can you use to grow bare root? Fields being considered for nursery stock production should have a minimum of 8 to 10 inches well-drained profile. A soil probe can be used to determine the soil profile. Soil type can be sandy for bare root production. Heavy clay soils should be avoided due to poor drainage and aeration, but can be improved by the addition of organic matter or several years of a green manure crop.. The best sites for field production have moderate slope for air and water drainage, or if flat, have good internal soil water drainage. Nursery stock that has been flooded is often weakened and predisposed to increased disease and insect problems. Soils should be tested to determine whether the pH needs adjusting, and if particular nutrients need to be incorporated prior to planting. Soils should be tested for pH, P, K and certain micronutrients, and possible pesticide residues, depending on prior uses of the site. Soil pH should range from 6 to 6.5 for most plants, lower (5 to 6) for acid-loving plants like azaleas. Fields should be plowed and disced prior to planting. Most planting is done in the spring, with some also in the fall. On some sites, depending upon plant spacing, erosion potential and other factors, it may be desirable to establish a cover crop. Do you have to irrigate the plants? Considerable field production is done without any supplemental irrigation, but this increases the potential for poor growth and survivability. Some fields are irrigated on an "as needed" basis with portable overhead systems (rainreels, moveable pipes, etc.), with the ideal situation being to have drip irrigation available for all plants. Water source, water quality, soil type, plant type and spacing, climate and topography must all be considered when designing an irrigation system, with each type of system having advantages and disadvantages. How do you control for weeds? Many nursery fields are chemically treated or fumigated prior to planting to help control weed problems prior to planting. Weeds are also controlled by applying herbicides (both preemergent and postemergent), mulching, hand weeding, mowing, and cultivating.

Should the soil be amended? Most soils benefit from the addition of organic matter. In addition to improving soil structure, water retention and drainage, aeration, and the quality of nursery stock grown, digging is usually easier in mineral soils that have been amended with organic matter. Also, some nursery species develop a more fibrous root system as the amount of organic matter is increased. An alternative to applying organic materials over the entire field is to incorporate the organic matter in planting rows only. What should the planting density be like? Spacing is always a concern in new fields, especially if you are uncertain about the size of plants you will need or about the market for your crops. If you anticipate that you will sell trees to professional landscapers or that they will be used as municipal street trees, space them wider to allow for more growth before they become crowded and so that you will have better access during harvesting. Wider spacing is also encouraged if the market strategy is uncertain, because it allows more opportunity for finding a market before the trees become overgrown. In choosing planting dimensions, it is important to account for space required by fertilizing, cultivating, mowing, and spraying equipment. Each tree is considered to own half the space between it and the next tree or row for calculations such as the number of trees per acre. In reality, the canopies and roots may exceed half the distance by harvest time. One method of increasing planting density is to plant some species, such as dogwoods, 3 feet apart within rows and after two years, dig and sell every other plant down the row. The following season, the remaining trees would have additional space to develop caliper and full, well-branched canopies. In theory, this method seems like a good idea. The critical issue with this plan is that you must have a sales mechanism in place for the trees that are dug after two years. If all the alternating trees are dug and sold, or possibly containerized to be sold during the current season, this plan may be feasible. However, in many cases, if the grower has no immediate market for the smaller trees or place to hold them, then the entire crop becomes over-grown and diminishes in value. Spacing between seedlings is 6"x 6" and is accomplished by eye while planting. Soil moisture is critical and the bed may require watering prior to planting. How do you harvest bare root? Some techniques with larger nurseries involve machine digging with a tree spade. Tree spades are equipped with three or four hydraulic blades that extract a cone of soil and roots, which are placed in a wire basket, but this method is usually used for balled and burlapped trees. A grower of bare-root liners will likely use a "U"-blade or lifter to cut the roots, lift the plant and shake much of the soil from the plant while in the field. Total Time to Harvest: Two years from sowing in the woody beds to harvest as bare root seedlings. Harvest Date: Dormant bareroot plants are harvested in early to mid-December Do you have to prune the bare root seedlings? Pruning may be necessary for seedlings with extremely long roots. However, prune

conservatively because seedlings will die soon after planting if they do not have sufficient root area to absorb water. Always prune with a sharp tool such as hand pruners or garden shears. Prune in a cool place where seedlings are out of the wind and sun. Handle roots as little as possible. In general, seedlings can have their roots pruned 8 to 10 inches below the root collar. The root collar is the point on the main stem identified by a change in color or slight swelling in the stem. Larger seedlings (3-year-old or transplanted seedlings) require a larger root system, so dont over-prune these. When you are done, re-moisten the seedlings and re-seal them in the original packaging. How do you transplant bare root? Seedlings can be damaged by overheating, too little moisture, and physical damage during transportation. A refrigerated truck is the best way to transport your seedlings safely. If refrigerated transport is not available or travel distance is short, protect seedlings from sun, wind and excessive drying by: 1. Placing foam insulation or spacer boards under the boxes and leave gaps around boxes. 2. Covering packages with a light-colored or reflective tarp to protect against the sun. 3. Traveling in the early morning when temperatures are cooler. 4. Using ice packs, snow, or a large cooler to keep seedlings cool. Do not place seedlings in a hot car trunk or leave them in a sunny location. If you suspect the seedlings have not been kept consistently cool since leaving the nursery, sprinkle cool water on them and reseal the packages. Consider transporting the seedlings in stages during the workday. How do you store bare root before planting? If you cannot plant immediately, store them properly until you can plant. Moisture loss is the greatest threat to the survival of bare root plants. Exposure to room temperature and humidity will cause bare root plants to lose as much as two to three percent of their fresh weight in moisture every hour. Such an exposure for even overnight can easily result in the plant's death. Preventing desiccation should be your highest priority in handling bare root perennials. Store the plants as close to but not below 32 deg. F, as you can, until you are ready to plant them. Keep them in their shipping bags until planting time. Shade the bags so the roots will not heat up. Don't leave an unprotected plant lying on the ground while preparing the planting hole. Dessication can occur rapidly on a sunny and breezy spring day. Water the plant thoroughly to settle it into the soil and get it off to a good start. Bare root plants can be held in cold storage with their roots exposed or packed in damp moss or other material; they can also be process (or peat) balled where their roots are surrounded by organic matter that is then packaged to look like a root ball; they can also be containerized or potted in a container with soilless substrate. There are also many new (and largely untested) products that may reduce dessication of bare root plants during storage. These products may be root dips, gels, or clay products designed to maintain a high moisture environment around roots. Storage Conditions: Bareroot plants are bundled into groups of 25 (or whatever is manageable), and long roots are trimmed. Bundles are placed into plastic bins with drainage holes. The roots are covered with sawdust and the bins are placed into cold storage (40F) and watered as needed during the winter. Storage Duration: December to mid-March.

How do you plant bare root plants? Steps: 1. Plant bare-root trees and shrubs in winter and very early spring (from midNovember to mid-March in most parts of the country) when the plants are dormant and the ground isn't frozen solid. They'll have a chance to put out new roots before they have to cope with hot sun, drying winds and the added stress of producing leaves. 2. Remove any packing material carefully, and rinse off or gently pull off any clumps of earth clinging to the roots; clip off any dead or damaged roots. 3. Immerse the roots in a bucket of water to soak for at least one to four hours, but no longer than overnight. Supplying enough moisture is key to the success of bareroot planting. 4. Dig a hole that's at least two feet wider than the root system and about as deep as the point where the roots flare from the trunk (or stems in the case of a shrub). Using your shovel, loosen the soil on the sides of the hole so it doesn't solidify around the plant's roots. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. Mound soil in the bottom of the hole so that the peak reaches just about ground level. Place stakes in the hole if you're planting a tree that will need support Set the tree or shrub on top of the mound so the roots cascade down over the sides. Spread them gently with your hands if you need to, and add or remove soil so that top of the root system is just at ground level. Fill the hole about halfway with soil and tamp it lightly with your foot to remove large air pockets. Make sure the tree or shrub is standing straight up, then water slowly to saturate the soil and remove any remaining air pockets. Finish filling the hole with soil. Use any extra to build a temporary berm above the perimeter of the roots and water again. Keep the soil moist for the first year after planting. Mulch to retain moisture, but keep at least six inches bare around the trunk. Check frequently; if you see yellow leaves or the soil feels dry, water immediately.

Tips: Unless you're planting a small shrub or a street or patio tree in a small, confined space, avoid amending (improving) the soil in the planting hole. The "good" soil will encourage the roots to confine themselves within that small area rather than spread out as they need to, and the result will be a weak plant. Instead, choose trees and shrubs that thrive naturally in your soil conditions. Deep, thorough watering is the key to healthy shrubs and trees. Give new trees at least an inch of water a week all around the root zone. (The roots of a woody plant extend about the same distance as its branches). What are some advantages and disadvantages to using bare root? A major advantage to using bare root plants is their light weight and relatively low cost but there are several advantages. Bare-root trees can be produced less expensively than trees produced in other systems due to easier digging, storing and shipping, since the soil is not kept with the roots when the tree is dug. The root system can be inspected, and inferior or defective roots can be removed. Some disadvantages are the range of tree sizes is limited in bare-root transplants due to the inability to move larger trees

successfully. Seasonal constraints are greater in this production system because bare-root trees should be dug and transplanted during the dormant season (December-March). Careful handling of bare-root transplants is necessary to avoid root desiccation. Bare-root trees often require staking to avoid windthrow following leaf emergence. What plants can you propagate as bare root? Bare root production and harvesting is generally restricted to small groundcover, herbaceous perennial and ornamental grass divisions, and small deciduous shrubs and trees. Due to the potential for desiccation, few evergreen shrubs or trees are harvested bare root, with the exception of small conifer liners for Christmas tree planting and reforestation

1. O plantio das mudas de cacaueiro (clone TSA 792), transportado com razes nuas, no dia da chegada (CT00) ou mantidas em caixa de isopor (I) ou plstica (CP) por trs dias apresentou menor taxa de mortalidade aos 90 dias em comparao aos demais tratamentos. CT00 e I3 destacaram-se dos demais tambm por apresentar maior massa seca de folhas. 2. No houve benefcio para uso de jornal, tanto para I quanto CP. 3. A simples contagem do nmero de folhas uma varivel com tendncia ao erro. Isso pode ser verificado quando se observa o resultado das plantas mantidas em tubetes que apresentaram maior nmero de folhas e foram significativamente inferiores quando se avaliou a massa seca das folhas comparando-se aos demais tratamentos. 4. Explicando melhor o item 3: A separao de folhas novas e velhas, no nos trouxe boas evidncias... Como se v as plantas dos tubetes devido ao stress, apresentaram grande nmero de folhas novas, contudo, quando avaliamos a massa seca, essa foi inferior e significativamente diferente dos demais tratamentos. 5. O tempo 12 dias foi prejudicial para o crescimento at os 90 dias para todos as variveis em comparao com os demais tempos. 3 dias ficou muito prximo do tempo CT00 e 6 e 9 apresentaram comportamento intermedirio.

Handling of Bare Root Perennials Contact: Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture Posted April 1997 Many perennials ordered from nurseries are bare root plants. These plants are subject to the stresses of being dug from the field, held in cold storage, shipped long distances under varying conditions, and are frequently held in temporary storage before being planted at their final destination. There are several things that home gardeners can do to ensure the survival and growth of the plants that they order. Determine a shipment's quality upon arrival. If the crowns and roots are covered with molds, are rotted, or are very dry, it is unlikely that the plant will grow well. Give it a try if you'd like, but be prepared for disappointment. Notify the nursery of your receipt of poor quality plants. This will simplify a later request for a refund or replacement, if necessary. If the roots are turgid and light in color, little or no mold is present, and the crowns and roots are in good physical condition, odds are good that the plant will do well if properly planted. If the plant appears somewhere between these two conditions, the subsequent regrowth of the plant becomes more of a judgement call. A partial covering of surface mold may be unsightly, but the plant may be healthy enough to make satisfactory growth. Research has shown that when surface molds cover 50 percent of the plant or less, the potential for regrowth is not affected. Regrowth quality does decrease as surface molds increase, and when soft rotting molds or bacterial infections are present, regrowth is unlikely. Plant perennials as soon as possible after delivery. If you cannot plant immediately, store them properly until you can plant. Moisture loss is the greatest threat to the survival of bare root plants. Exposure to room temperature and humidity will cause bare root plants to lose as much as two to three percent of their fresh weight in moisture every hour. Such an exposure for even overnight can easily result in the plant's death. Preventing desiccation should be your highest priority in handling bare root perennials. If you must wait to plant, keep them in the poly bags in which they were shipped. These bags allow adequate exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide when the plants are kept at cool temperatures, so don't open the bags so the plants can "breathe." Don't give them a drink, either, as free water in the bags will promote the growth of molds and bacteria. High temperatures can also lower plant regrowth quality. Store the plants in your refrigerator, as close to but not below 32 deg. F, as you can, until you are ready to plant them. If the plants have been allowed to warm significantly above storage temperatures, condensation in the bags upon recooling may be a problem. Leave the bags open as they cool to the storage temperature, then

close them again. Some moisture loss will occur, but the amount of mold promoting condensate on the inside of the bags will be reduced. Continue to protect the regrowth quality of bare root plants even while planting them. Keep them in their shipping bags until planting time. Shade the bags so the roots will not heat up. Don't leave an unprotected plant lying on the ground while preparing the planting hole. Dessication can occur rapidly on a sunny and breezy spring day. Water the plant thoroughly to settle it into the soil and get it off to a good start. (Prepared by Ellen Silva, Extension Technician, Consumer Horticulture, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA 24061-0327.) +++ Restricted to seasons when soil moisture is adequate and plants are dormant; plants Harvesting are dug by hand or machine, bareroot or with soil ball; root protection required during holding (cold storage, heeling in, balling-in-burlap) Bareroot field-grown plants can be bundled or boxed, large B&B plants spaced on Shipping trucks or tied to individual pallets

++++ BARE ROOTS http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/land/forestry/Publications/seedling_broch_web_s mall.pdf Transportation From the time bare root seedlings are taken from the nursery bed to the time they are planted, it is critically important to keep the seedlings moist and cool (between 33F to 40F). If seedlings dry out, the root hairs become permanently damaged and cant absorb adequate water and nutrients. Seedlings can be damaged by overheating, too little moisture, and physical damage during transportation. A refrigerated truck is the best way to transport your seedlings safely. If refrigerated transport is not available or travel distance is short, protect seedlings from sun, wind and excessive drying by: Placing foam insulation or spacer boards under the boxes and leave gaps around boxes. Covering packages with a light-colored or reflective tarp to protect against the sun. Traveling in the early morning when temperatures are cooler. Using ice packs, snow, or a large cooler to keep seedlings cool. Do not place seedlings in a hot car trunk or leave them in a sunny location. If you suspect the seedlings have not been kept consistently cool since leaving

the nursery, sprinkle cool water on them and reseal the packages. Consider transporting the seedlings in stages during the workday. Storage Plant seedlings as soon as possible after delivery! Seedlings stored for short periods of time (1-5 days), must be kept cool. The best storage temperature is between 33F and 40F. Temperatures from 40F to 50F are tolerable for short periods, and above 50F seedling damage is possible. The longer the storage period and the warmer the temperature, the greater the risk of damage. Seedling Preparation Pruning may be necessary for seedlings with extremely long roots. However, prune conservatively because seedlings will die soon after planting if they do not have sufficient root area to absorb water. Always prune with a sharp tool such as hand pruners or garden shears. Prune in a cool place where seedlings are out of the wind and sun. Handle roots as little as possible. In general, seedlings can have their roots pruned 8 to 10 inches below the root collar. The root collar is the point on the main stem identified by a change in color or slight swelling in the stem (see fig.1). Larger seedlings (3year-old or transplanted seedlings) require a larger root system, so dont overprune these. When you are done, re-moisten the seedlings and re-seal them in the original packaging.

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