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Tratamento térmico diferencial

O tratamento térmico diferencial (também chamado tratamento térmico seletivo ou tratamento
térmico local) é uma técnica usada durante o tratamento térmico para endurecer ou suavizar
determinadas áreas de um objeto de aço, criando uma diferença na dureza entre essas áreas. Existem
muitas técnicas para criar uma diferença nas propriedades, mas a maioria pode ser definida como
endurecimento diferencial ou têmpera diferencial . Essas eram técnicas comuns de tratamento
térmico usadas historicamente na Europa e na Ásia, com possivelmente o exemplo mais conhecido
sendo da ferraria japonesa . Algumas variedades modernas foram desenvolvidas no século XX, à
medida que o conhecimento e a tecnologia metalúrgica aumentavam rapidamente.

O endurecimento diferencial consiste em dois métodos. Pode envolver o aquecimento uniforme do

metal até uma temperatura em brasa e, em seguida, resfriá-lo a taxas diferentes, transformando parte
do objeto em martensita muito dura, enquanto o restante esfria mais devagar e se torna perolita mais
suave . Também pode consistir em aquecer apenas uma parte do objeto muito rapidamente para ficar
em brasa e depois esfriar rapidamente ( extinção ), transformando apenas parte dele em martensita
dura, mas deixando o restante inalterado. Por outro lado, os métodos de têmpera diferencial
consistem em aquecer o objeto uniformemente até ficar em brasa e, em seguida, extinguir o objeto
inteiro, transformando tudo em martensita. O objecto é, então, aquecida a uma temperatura mais
baixa tanto para amaciá-la ( têmpera), mas é aquecido apenas em uma área localizada, amolecendo
apenas uma parte dela.

Conteúdo
Introdução
Endurecimento diferencial
Forjando facas
Revestimentos de isolamento
Têmpera
Metalografia Uma espada endurecida
Endurecimento decorativo diferencialmente, mostrando a
Benefícios e desvantagens borda endurecida como a porção
mais branca da lâmina.
Endurecimento diferencial moderno
Endurecimento por chama
Endurecimento por indução
Têmpera diferencial
Ferraria
Grau de temperamento
Guiando o calor
Forjando facas
Guiando o calor
Metalurgia
Benefícios e desvantagens
Veja também
Referências
Bibliografia
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links externos

Introdução
Differential heat treatment is a method used to alter the properties of various parts of a steel object
differently, producing areas that are harder or softer than others. This creates greater toughness in
the parts of the object where it is needed, such as the tang or spine of a sword, but produces greater
hardness at the edge or other areas where greater impact resistance, wear resistance, and strength is
needed. Differential heat treatment can often make certain areas harder than could be allowed if the
steel was uniformly treated, or "through treated". There are several techniques used to differentially
heat treat steel, but they can usually be divided into differential hardening and differential
tempering methods.

During heat treating, when red-hot steel (usually between 1,500 °F (820 °C) and 1,600 °F (870 °C)) is
quenched, it becomes very hard. However, it will be too hard, becoming very brittle like glass.
Quenched-steel is usually heated again, slowly and evenly (usually between 400 °F (204 °C) and
650 °F (343 °C)) in a process called tempering, to soften the metal, thereby increasing the toughness.
However, although this softening of the metal makes the blade less prone to breaking, it makes the
edge more susceptible to deformation such as dulling, peening, or curling.[1]

Differential hardening is a method used in heat treating swords and knives to increase the hardness
of the edge without making the whole blade brittle. To achieve this, the edge is cooled faster than the
spine by adding a heat insulator to the spine before quenching. Clay or another material is used for
insulation. To prevent cracking and loss of surface carbon, quenching is usually performed before
beveling, shaping, and sharpening the edge. [2][3] It can also be achieved by carefully pouring water
(perhaps already heated) onto the edge of a blade as is the case with the manufacture of some kukri.
Differential hardening technology originated in China and later spread to Korea and Japan. This
technique is mainly used in the Chinese jian and the katana, the traditional Japanese sword, and the
khukuri, the traditional Nepalese knife. Most blades made with this technique have visible temper
lines. This method is sometimes called differential tempering, but this term more accurately refers to
a different technique, which originated with the broadswords of Europe.

Modern versions of differential hardening were developed when sources of rapidly heating the metal
were devised, such as an oxy-acetylene torch or induction heating. With flame hardening and
induction hardening techniques, the steel is quickly heated to red-hot in a localized area and then
quenched. This hardens only part of the object, but leaves the rest unaltered.

Differential tempering was more commonly used to make cutting tools, although it was sometimes
used on knives and swords as well. Differential tempering is obtained by quenching the sword
uniformly, then tempering one part of it, such as the spine or the center portion of double edged
blades. This is usually done with a torch or some other directed heat source. The heated portion of the
metal is softened by this process, leaving the edge at the higher hardness.[4]

Differential hardening

Bladesmithing

Differential hardening (also called differential quenching, selective quenching, selective

hardening, or local hardening) is most commonly used in bladesmithing to increase the toughness of
a blade while keeping very high hardness and strength at the edge. This helps to make the blade very
resistant to breaking, by making the spine very soft and bendable, but allows greater hardness at the

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edge than would be possible if the blade was uniformly quenched

and tempered. This helps to create a tough blade that will
maintain a very sharp, wear-resistant edge, even during rough
use such as found in combat.

Insulation coatings

A differentially hardened blade will usually be coated with an

insulating layer, like clay, but leaving the edge exposed. When it
is heated to red-hot and quenched, the edge cools quickly,
becoming very hard, but the rest cools slowly, becoming much
softer.[5][6] The insulation layer is quite often a mixture of clays,
ashes, polishing stone powder, and salts, which protects the back
of the blade from cooling very quickly when quenched.[7][8] The
clay is often applied by painting it on, coating the blade very Diagram of a cross section of a
thickly around the center and spine, but leaving the edge katana, showing the typical
exposed. This allows the edge to cool very quickly, turning it into arrangement of the harder and
a very hard microstructure called martensite, but causes the rest softer zones.
of the blade to cool slowly, turning it into a soft microstructure
called pearlite. This produces an edge that is exceptionally hard
and brittle, but is backed-up by softer, tougher metal. The edge, however, will usually be too hard, so
after quenching the entire blade is usually tempered to around 400 °F (204 °C) for a short time, to
bring the hardness of the edge down to around HRc60 on the Rockwell hardness scale.[5]

The exact composition of the clay mixture, the thickness of the coating, and even the temperature of
the water were often closely guarded secrets of the various bladesmithing schools.[8] With the clay
mixture, the main goal was to find a mixture that would withstand high temperatures and adhere to
the blade without shrinking, cracking, or peeling as it dried. Sometimes the back of the blade was
coated with clay, leaving the edge exposed. Other times the entire blade was coated and then the clay
was cut away from the edge. Another method was to apply the clay thickly at the back but thinly at the
edge, providing a lesser amount of insulation. By controlling the thickness of the edge-coating along
with the temperature of the water, the cooling rate of each part of the blade can be controlled to
produce the proper hardness upon quenching without the need for further tempering.[7][8]

Quenching

Once the coating has dried, the blade is heated slowly and evenly,
to prevent the coating from cracking or falling off. After the blade
is heated to the proper temperature, which is usually judged by
the cherry-red glow (blackbody radiation) of the blade, it will
change into a phase called austenite. Both to help prevent
cracking and to produce uniformity in the hardness of each area,
the smith will need to ensure that the temperature is even,
lacking any hot spots from sitting next to the coals. To prevent
this, the blade is usually kept in motion while heating, to
distribute the heat more evenly. Quenching is often done in low- The curving of a katana during
light conditions, to help accurately judge the color of the glow. quenching first begins with a
Typically, the smith will also try to avoid overheating the blade to downward bend as the edge cools,
followed by an upward bend as the
prevent the metallic crystals from growing too large. At this time
rest of the sword cools.
the blade will usually be plunged into a vat of water or oil, to
quickly remove the heat from the edge. The clay, in turn,
insulates the back of the blade, causing it to cool slower than the
edge.[5]

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When the edge cools fast a diffusionless transformation occurs, turning the austenite into very hard
martensite. This requires a temperature drop from around 750 °C (cherry-red) to 450 °C (at which
point the transformation is complete) in less than a second to prevent the formation of soft pearlite.
Because the rest of the blade cools slowly, the carbon in the austenite has time to precipitate,
becoming pearlite. The diffusionless transformation causes the edge to "freeze" suddenly in a
thermally expanded state, but allows the back to contract as it cools slower. This typically causes the
blade to bend or curve during quenching, as the back contracts more than the edge. This gives swords
like katana and wakizashi their characteristic curved shapes. The blade is usually straight when
heated but then bows as it cools; first curving toward the edge as it contracts, and then away from the
edge as the spine contracts more. With slashing-type swords, this curvature helps to facilitate cutting,
but increases the chances of cracking during the procedure. Up to one third of all swords are often
ruined during the quenching process.[9] However, when the sword does not crack, the internal
stresses created help increase the toughness of the blade, similar to the increased toughness in
tempered glass.[10] The sword may need further shaping after quenching and tempering, to achieve
the desired curvature.[6]

Care must be taken to plunge the sword quickly and vertically (edge first), for if one side enters the
quenching fluid before the other the cooling may be asymmetric and cause the blade to bend
sideways (warp). Because quenching in water tends to cause a sudden loss of surface carbon, the
sword will usually be quenched before the edge is beveled and sharpened. After quenching and
tempering, the blade was traditionally given a rough shape with a draw knife before sending to a
polisher for sharpening,[11] although in modern times an electric belt sander is often used instead.

Metallography

Differential hardening will produce two different zones of hardness, which respond differently to
grinding, sharpening, and polishing. The back and center of the blade will grind away much quicker
than the edge, so the polisher will need to carefully control the angle of the edge, which will affect the
geometry of the blade. An inexperienced polisher can quickly ruin a blade by applying too much
pressure to the softened areas, rapidly altering the blade's shape without much change to the
hardened zone.[12]

Although both the pearlite and martensite can be polished to a

mirror-like shine, only the back and spine are usually polished to
such an extent. The hardened portion of the blade (yakiba) and
the center portion (hira) are often given a matte finish instead, to
make the differences in the hardness stand out. This causes the
various microstructures to reflect light differently when viewed
from different angles. The pearlite takes on longer, deeper
scratches, and either appears shiny and bright, or sometimes
dark depending on the viewing angle. The martensite is harder to
scratch, so the microscopic abrasions are smaller. The martensite
usually appears brighter yet flatter than the pearlite, and this is
A katana, shown at a long angle to
less dependent on the viewing angle.[12] When polished or etched
reveal the nioi, which is the bright
with acid to reveal these features, a distinct boundary is observed line following the hamon. The inset
between the martensite portion of the blade and the pearlite. This shows a close up of the nioi, which
boundary is often called the "temper line", or the commonly used appears as the speckled area
Japanese term, the "hamon". Between the hardened edge and the between the bright hardened edge
hamon lies an intermediate zone, called the '"nioi" in Japanese, and the darker soft zone. The wood-
which is usually only visible at long angles. The nioi is about a grain appearance is from the folding
millimeter or two wide, following the hamon, which is made up techniques used during forging.
of individual martensite grains (niye) surrounded by pearlite.
The nioi provides a very tough boundary between the yakiba and
the hira.[13]
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Decorative hardening

In Japan, from the legendary time of the famous smith Amakuni, hamons were originally straight and
parallel to the edge, but by the twelfth century AD, smiths such as Shintogo Kunimitsu began
producing hamons with very irregular shapes, which provided both mechanical and decorative
benefits. By the sixteenth century AD, the Japanese smiths often overheated their swords slightly
before quenching, to produce rather large niye for aesthetic purposes, even though a larger grain size
tended to weaken the sword a bit. During this time, great attention began to be paid in Japan to
making decorative hamons, by carefully shaping the clay. It became very common during this era to
find swords with wavy hamons, flowers or clovers depicted in the temper line, rat's feet, trees, or
other shapes. By the eighteenth century, decorative hamons were often being combined with
decorative folding techniques to produce entire landscapes, complete with specific islands, crashing
waves, hills, mountains, rivers, and sometimes low spots were cut in the clay to produce niye far away
from the hamon, creating effects such as birds in the sky.[14]

Benefits and drawbacks

Although differential hardening produces a very hard edge, it also leaves the rest of the sword rather
soft, which can make it prone to bending under heavy loads, such as parrying a hard blow. It can also
make the edge more susceptible to chipping or cracking. Swords of this type can usually only be
resharpened a few times before reaching the softer metal underneath the edge. However, if properly
protected and maintained, these blades can usually hold an edge for long periods of time, even after
slicing through bone and flesh, or heavily matted bamboo to simulate cutting through body parts, as
is in iaido.[15]

Modern differential hardening

Flame hardening

Flame hardening is often used to harden only a portion of an

object, by quickly heating it with a very hot flame in a localized
area, and then quenching the steel. This turns the heated portion
into very hard martensite, but leaves the rest unchanged. Usually,
an oxy-gas torch is used to provide such high temperatures.
Flame hardening is a very common surface hardening technique,
which is often used to provide a very wear-resistant surface. A
common use is for hardening the surface of gears, making the
teeth more resistant to erosion. The gear will usually be
quenched and tempered to a specific hardness first, making a A flame-hardened timing-sprocket.
majority of the gear tough, and then the teeth are quickly heated The discoloration around the teeth
and immediately quenched, hardening only the surface. indicate the metal that was heated
Afterward, it may or may not be tempered again to achieve the and quenched, with the heat-
final differential hardness.[16] affected zone visible as a thin layer
between it and the ring of tempering
This process is often used for knife making, by heating only the colors.
edge of a previously quenched and tempered blade. When edge
turns the proper color temperature, it is quenched, hardening
only the edge, but leaving most of the rest of the blade at the lower hardness. The knife is then
tempered again to produce the final differential hardness.[17] However, unlike a blade that has been
evenly heated and differentially quenched, flame hardening creates a heat-affected zone. Unlike the
nioi, the boundary between the hot and cold metal formed by this heat-affected zone causes

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extremely rapid cooling when quenched. When combined with the stresses formed, this creates a very
brittle zone between the hard and softer metal, which usually makes this method unsuitable for
swords or tools that may be subjected to shear and impact stresses.[18]

Induction hardening

Induction hardening is a surface hardening technique which uses induction coils to provide a very
rapid means of heating the metal. With induction heating, the steel can be heated very quickly to red-
hot at the surface, before the heat can penetrate any distance into the metal. The surface is then
quenched, hardening it, and is often used without further tempering. This makes the surface very
resistant to wear, but provides tougher metal directly underneath it, leaving the majority of the object
unchanged. A common use for induction hardening is for hardening the bearing surfaces, or
"journals", on automotive crankshafts or the rods of hydraulic cylinders.[19]

Differential tempering
Differential tempering (also called graded tempering,
selective tempering or local tempering) is the inverse of
differential hardening, to ultimately produce similar results.
Differential tempering begins by taking steel that has been
uniformly quenched and hardened, and then heating it in
localized areas to reduce the hardness. The process is often used A planing chisel being differentially
tempered, showing the colors
in blacksmithing for tempering cutting instruments, softening
moving across the long, flat section
the back, shaft, or spine, but simultaneously tempering the edge
between the shaft (blue) and the
to a very high hardness. The process was very common in ancient
cutting edge (yellow).
Europe, for making tools, but soon was applied to knives and
swords as well.[20]

Blacksmithing

The most common use for differential tempering was for heat treating cutting tools, such as axes and
chisels, where an extremely hard edge is desired, but some malleability and springiness is needed in
the rest of the tool. A chisel with a very hard edge can maintain that edge longer and cut harder
materials, but, if the entire chisel was too hard, it would shatter under the hammer blows. Differential
tempering was often used to provide a very hard cutting edge, but to soften parts of the tool that are
subject to impact and shock loading.[21]

Before a tool is differentially tempered, it is first heated to red-hot and then quenched, hardening the
entire tool. This makes the tool much too hard for normal use, so the tool is tempered to reduce the
hardness to a more suitable point. However, unlike normal tempering, the tool is not heated evenly.
Instead, the heat is applied to only a part of the tool, allowing the heat to thermally conduct toward
the cooler cutting edge. The quenched-steel is first sanded or polished, to remove any residual
oxidation, revealing the bare metal underneath. The steel is then heated in a localized area, such as
the hammering-end of a chisel or the handle-end of an axe. The smith then carefully gauges the
temperature by watching the tempering colors of the steel. As the steel is heated, these colors will
form, ranging from yellow to brown, purple, and blue, and many shades in between, and will indicate
the temperature of the steel. As heat is applied, the colors will form near the heat source, and then
slowly move across the tool, following the heat as it conducts toward the edge.[22]

Before the yellow or "light-straw" color reaches the edge, the smith removes the heat. The heat will
continue to conduct, moving the colors toward the edge for a short time after the heat is removed.
When the light-straw color reaches the edge, the smith will usually dip the steel in water, to stop the

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process. This will generally produce a very hard edge, around HRc58-60 on the Rockwell scale, but
will leave the opposite end of the tool much softer. The hardness of the cutting edge is generally
controlled by the chosen color, but will also be affected primarily by the carbon content in the steel,
plus a variety of other factors. The exact hardness of the soft end depends on many factors, but the
main one is the speed at which the steel was heated, or how far the colors spread out. The light-straw
color is very hard, brittle steel, but the light-blue is softer and very springy. Beyond the blue color,
when the steel turns grey, it is more likely to be very malleable, which is usually undesirable in a
chisel. If the steel is too soft it can bend or mushroom, plastically deforming under the force of the
hammer.[22]

Grade of temper

Unlike with differential hardening, in differential tempering there is no distinct boundary between
the harder and softer metals, but the change from hard to soft is very gradual, forming a continuum,
or "grade" (gradient), of hardness. However, higher heating temperatures cause the colors to spread
less, creating a much steeper grade, while lower temperatures can make the change more gradual,
using a smaller portion of the entire continuum. The tempering colors only represent a fraction of the
entire grade, because the metal turns grey above 650 °F (343 °C), making it difficult to judge the
temperature, but the hardness will continue to decrease as the temperature rises.[23][24]

Guiding the heat

Heating in just one area, like the flat end of a center

punch, will cause the grade to spread evenly down the
length of the tool. Because having a continuous grade
along the length of the entire tool is not always
desired, methods of concentrating the change have A differentially tempered cold chisel
been devised. A tool like a chisel may be heated
quickly but evenly along the entire shaft, tempering it
to a purple or blue color, but allowing the residual heat to quickly conduct a short distance to the
edge. Another method is to hold the edge in water, keeping it cool as the rest of the tool is tempered.
When the proper color is reached, the edge is removed from the water and allowed to temper from
the residual heat, and the entire tool is plunged in the water when the edge turns the proper color.
However, heating in localized areas with such low temperatures may be difficult with larger items,
like an axe or a splitting maul, because the steel may lose too much heat before it can conduct to the
edge. Sometimes the steel is heated evenly to just below the desired temperature, and then
differentially tempered, making it easier to control the temperature change. Another way is to
partially embed the steel in an insulator, like sand or lime, preventing too much heat loss during
tempering.

Bladesmithing

Eventually, this process was applied to swords and

knives, to produce mechanical effects that were
similar to differential hardening, but with some
important differences. To differentially temper a
blade, it is first quenched to harden the entire blade A differentially tempered sword. Made of 5160
evenly. The blade is then heated in a localized area, carbon steel and balanced right at the end of the
allowing the heat to flow toward the edge. With fullers, the edge has been tempered slightly
harder than a hammer, whereas the center, hilt
single-edged blades, the blade may be tempered with
and handle are tempered to a spring hardness.
fire or a torch. The blade is heated along the spine and
tang only, allowing the heat to conduct to the edge.
The heat will need to be applied evenly, allowing the
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colors to spread evenly across the blade. However, with double-edged blades, the heat source will
usually need to be more precisely localized because the heat must be applied evenly along the center
of the blade, allowing it to conduct to both edges. Often, a red or yellow-hot bar is used to supply the
heat, placing it along the center of the blade, typically fitted into a fuller.[25] Modern gas torches often
have the ability to produce very precise flames. To prevent too much heat loss in the blade, it may be
preheated, partially insulated, or sandwiched between two red-hot bars. When the proper color
reaches the edge, it is immersed in water to stop the process.[26]

Guiding the heat

Differential tempering can be made more difficult by the shape of the blade. When tempering a
double-edged sword with a taper along its length, the tip may reach the proper temperature before
the shank does. The smith may need to control the temperature by using methods like pouring water
along certain parts of the edge, or cooling it with ice, causing the proper temperature to reach the
entire edge at the same time. In this way, although it is less time-consuming than differential
hardening with clay, once the process starts the smith must be vigilant, carefully guiding the heat.
This leaves little room for error, and mistakes in shaping the hardened zone cannot easily be
corrected. This is made even more difficult if the knife or sword has a curve, an odd shape, or a
sharply tapered tip. Swords tempered in this manner, especially double-edged swords, will generally
need to be rather wide, allowing room for a gradient to form. However differential tempering does
not alter the blade's shape.[27]

Metallurgy

When a sword, knife or tool is evenly quenched, the entire object turns into martensite, which is
extremely hard, without the formation of soft pearlite. Tempering reduces the hardness in the steel by
gradually changing the martensite into a microstructure of various carbides, such as cementite, and
softer ferrite (iron), forming a microstructure called "tempered martensite". When tempering high-
carbon steel in the blacksmith method, the color provides a general indication of the final hardness,
although some trial-and-error is usually required to match the right color to the type of steel to
achieve the exact hardness, because the carbon content, the heating speed, and even the type of heat
source will affect the outcome. Without the formation of pearlite, the steel can be incrementally
tempered to achieve the proper hardness in each area, ensuring that no area is too soft.[28] In arming
swords, for instance, because the blade is typically rather wide and thin, a blade can be prone to
bending during combat. If the center of the blade is too soft, this bending may likely be permanent.
However, if the sword is tempered to a springy hardness, it will be more likely to return to its original
shape.[27]

Benefits and drawbacks

A sword tempered this way cannot usually have an edge as hard as a differentially-hardened sword,
like a katana, because there is no softer metal directly underneath the edge to back-up the harder
metal. This makes the edge more likely to chip away in larger pieces. Therefore, such an extremely
hard edge is not always desirable, as greater hardness makes the edge more brittle and less resistant
to impacts, such as cutting through bones, shafts of pole-arms, hitting shields or blocking and
parrying. The sword will often be tempered to slightly higher temperatures to increase the impact
resistance at a cost in the ability to hold a sharp edge when cutting. The edge may need to be
tempered to dark-straw or brown to achieve this, and the center tempered to a blue or purple color.
This may leave very little difference between the edge and the center, and the benefits of this method,
over tempering the sword evenly at a point somewhere in the middle, may not be very substantial.
When a sword tempered in this way is resharpened the hardness will decrease with each sharpening,
although the reduction in hardness will usually not be noticeable until a large amount of steel has
been removed.[27]
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See also
Case hardening
Shot peening

References
1. Knife Talk II: The High Performance Blade By Ed Fowler – Krause Publications 2003 p. 115
2. James Drewe (28 February 2009). Tàijí Jiàn 32-Posture Sword Form (https://books.google.com/b
ooks?id=U6UdWcIx95YC&pg=PT11). Singing Dragon. pp. 11–. ISBN 978-1-84819-011-5.
Retrieved 11 November 2012.
3. Richard Cohen (5 August 2003). By the Sword: A History of Gladiators, Musketeers, Samurai,
Swashbucklers, and Olympic Champions (https://books.google.com/books?id=inND87EFFF4C&p
g=PA124). Random House Digital, Inc. pp. 124–. ISBN 978-0-8129-6966-5. Retrieved
11 November 2012.
4. How to Make Your Own Steel Knifes (sic) (http://www.primitiveways.com/pt-knives-1.html).
Primitiveways.com. Retrieved on 2012-11-11.
5. Knife Talk II: The High Performance Blade By Ed Fowler – Krause Publications 2003 pp. 114–115
6. NOVA | Secrets of the Samurai Sword (https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/ancient/secrets-samurai-s
word.html). Pbs.org. Retrieved on 2012-11-11.
7. Japanse Swordmaking Process ~ www.samuraisword.com (http://www.samuraisword.com/REFE
RENCE/making/japanse_swordmaking_process.htm). Samuraisword.com. Retrieved on 2012-11-
11.
8. Smith, p. 49
9. "NOVA | Secrets of the Samurai Sword" (https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/ancient/secrets-samurai
-sword.html). pbs.org. Retrieved 27 May 2014.
10. "International Conference" (http://www.jsme.or.jp/tsd/ICBTT/conference02/TatsuoINOUE.html).
jsme.or.jp. Retrieved 27 May 2014.
11. Smith, pp. 49–52
12. Smith
13. Smith, pp. 49–52
14. Smith, pp. 41, 50–51
15. The Medieval Sword in the Modern World By Michael 'Tinker' Pearce – 2007 p. 39
16. Prabhudev, pp. 394–400
17. Blades Guide to Making Knives By Joe Kertzman – Krause Publications 2005 p. 47
18. Steel Metallurgy for the Non-Metallurgist By John D. Verhoeven – ASM International 2007 p. 51
19. Prabhudev, pp. 400–407
20. Prabhudev, p. 101
21. The Complete Modern Blacksmith By Alexander Weygers – Ten Speed Press 1997
22. Blacksmithing Basics for the Homestead By Joe DeLaRonde – Gibbs Smith 2008 p. 101
23. Fracture Mechanics: Fourteenth Symposium – STP 791 By the American Society for Testing and
Materials – ASTM 1983 pp. 148–150
24. Heat Treater's Guide: Practices and Procedures for Irons and Steels By Harry Chandler – ASM
International pp. 98–99
25. The Art of Blacksmithing by Dan W. Bealer -- Castle Books 1969 Page 359
26. The Wonder of Knifemaking By Wayne Goddard – Krause Publications 2011 pp. 47–48
27. The Medieval Sword in the Modern World By Michael 'Tinker' Pearce – 2007 pp. 39, 112
28. Advanced materials & processes, Volume 149 By the American Society of Metals – ASM
International p. 114

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Bibliography
Prabhudev, K. H. (1988). Handbook Of Heat Treatment Of Steels (https://books.google.com/book
s?id=yu2r5uqJBGIC). Tata McGraw-Hill Education. ISBN 978-0-07-451831-1. Retrieved
11 November 2012.
Smith, Cyril Stanley (September 2012). A History of Metallography: The Development of Ideas on
the Structure of Metals Before 1890 (https://books.google.com/books?id=qMCKMQEACAAJ).
Literary Licensing, LLC. ISBN 978-1-258-47336-5. Retrieved 11 November 2012.

External links
Claying blades – Differential hardening with clay (http://www.engnath.com/claytemp.htm)

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