The Trench Coat's Forgotten WW1 Roots - BBC News

01/11/2022 15:38 The trench coat's forgotten WW1 roots - BBC News
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Inglaterra Regiões
PROPAGANDA
As raízes esquecidas da Primeira Guerra Mundial

do trench coat
5 de outubro de 2014
https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-29033055 1/17
AQUASCUTUM
Por Simon Armstrong

BBC Notícias
É um clássico da moda que perdurou ao longo das décadas. Mas longe dos
desfiles e do glamour de Hollywood, o primeiro papel principal do trench
coat foi na Primeira Guerra Mundial, equipando soldados cansados da
batalha.
De Humphrey Bogart a Audrey Hepburn e Kate Moss, o trench coat agora é

sinônimo de élan e sofisticação.
Marcando inúmeras aparições na tela de prata e nas páginas brilhantes de

revistas de moda, é considerado um guarda-roupa atemporal essencial.
Mas enquanto hoje adorna os ombros de supermodelos e celebridades, parece

- apesar da pista pesada em seu nome - suas origens em campos de batalha
sangrentos podem ser menos apreciadas.
"Se você ler artigos sobre '10 itens que todos deveriam ter', o trench coat
provavelmente aparecerá junto com um par de jeans e uma jaqueta de couro",
diz Amber Jane Butchart, autora, blogueira e professora associada de estudos
culturais e históricos no London College. da Moda.
"Tornou-se um clássico perene.
"Muitas pessoas podem se surpreender com a origem, mas durante séculos a

moda influenciou a vestimenta militar e vice-versa."
As World War One took a stranglehold on Europe, the Allies and opposition
German forces dug deep with defensive lines stretching from the North Sea to
the Swiss border.
There in the trenches as the onslaught raged were the soldiers - caked in mud
and battered by biting winds.
PA
Trench warfare was one of the defining characteristics of World War One
BURBERRY
Today the coats are more associated with preening and pouting
Their heavy greatcoats - long wool overcoats which had been regulation
garments for British forces since the Crimean War of the 1850s - proved ill-
suited to the desperate conditions.
In contrast, the lighter, shorter, waterproof coat produced by English clothing

companies such as Burberry and Aquascutum was a perfect fit.
But they were not its only practical benefits.
Epaulettes displayed an officer's rank, while a gun flap buttoned at the chest
was designed to provide an amount of additional protection when in combat.
Map cases and other equipment were attached to D-rings on the belt, and
covering the upper back area was a storm shield that enabled water to run off
the coat cleanly.
Their subdued colour, too, played an important role.
"It became imperative for soldiers to not stand out," says Ms Butchart, who is
writing a book examining the links between military wear and fashion.
"Khaki is the Hindi word for dust. Before that, military clothing was incredibly
brightly coloured.
"For centuries you needed to recognise the side people were on very easily, so
colours like blue and red that were quite easy to dye relatively cheaply got
used a lot in European uniforms.
"However, by the time of the African campaigns [in the late 19th Century],
warfare was getting more industrialised and those colours were basically
putting a target on your soldiers."
Who invented the trench coat?
BURBERRY
Two names loom large in the history of the trench coat with both laying
claim to having invented the garment
In 1879 Hampshire's Thomas Burberry developed gabardine, a tightly

woven, water-repellent cloth which was later used for the forerunner of the
trench coat, the Tielocken
To make them waterproof, fabrics had previously been waxed or rubberised

- resulting in them becoming heavy, stiff and uncomfortable to wear
In contrast, gabardine was lightweight, weatherproof and 'breathable'
The coats were first used in the Boer War in 1895 - Burberry developed
them further and supplied about half a million during World War One
London's Aquascutum, meanwhile, claims to have used designs which later

formed the basis for the trench coat as early as the 1850s
Using patented waterproof wool, the firm says its coats were worn by
soldiers fighting in the Crimean War
A number of companies advertised variations on the trench coat during

World War One including Thresher and Glenny, Gerrish Ames and
Simpkins, Kenneth Durward, and David Moseley and Sons
That shift reflected a marked change in the psychology of battle, says Jane
Tynan, lecturer in cultural studies at Central Saint Martins in London and
author of British Army Uniform and the First World War: Men in Khaki.
"The introduction of the trench coat is really significant - it's a story of clothing
becoming part of the technology of warfare.
"Armies' very bright colours were often reminiscent of their flag, but they were
also associated with honour.
"In World War One, French soldiers wore red trousers because they felt it was
dishonourable to be in camouflage.
"But the British were enthusiastic adopters of khaki from the time of the
Indian Mutiny in 1857.
"It went hand in hand with a belief that pragmatism was more important than
honour.
"Uniform became a lot more functional and decorative features were less in
evidence."
Weighed down by sludge, it was not unusual, Ms Tynan says, for frustrated
soldiers to slash away feet of fabric from their greatcoats using bayonets.
The trench coat alleviated that issue, but despite its suitability it was never a
regulation garment supplied to each and every soldier.
REUTERS
This Burberry trench coat is featured in an exhibition at the Museum of the Great War in Meaux, near Paris
Adopted by officers who, unlike other ranks, were allowed to procure their
own clothes from tailors and outfitters, its use became more widespread from
1917 onwards.
Desperate to clothe an army which had quadrupled in size, the manufacturing
of uniforms was put out to trade by the War Office with civilian firms entering
into mass production.
It resulted in cheaper garments - a benefit for newly recruited officers, some of

whom were less well-off than their predecessors.
It highlights, Ms Tynan argues, an issue that still resonates today with

concerns over kit shortages for British soldiers during their recent
campaigns in Afghanistan.
"A method previously associated with clothing lower ranks, it presented firms
such as Burberry and Aquascutum with a huge opportunity to market the
trench coat.
"Having a mass-produced item for officers became quite normalised.
"There are so many myths around soldiers all being clothed and kitted out to
the necessary standard, but the reality is very different.
"When you think of the scale of the First World War, you realise it would have
been impossible to fully regulate the dress of each soldier for such a large
conflict."
While the trench coat's popularity was not restricted to the battlefield, the
qualities embodied by the armed forces did help widen its appeal.
"Even during the war you got ads in the Illustrated London News for the
Burberry trench coat being sold to men and women," said Ms Butchart.
"It was a unisex item.
"Then when the soldiers returned from battle there was the idea of heroism
and patriotism that people wanted to buy into."
AQUASCUTUM
As with this example from Aquascutum, many adverts for trench coats played up links to military heritage
But having been firmly rooted in military campaigns, the coat was soon to be
taken in a different direction - one which would shape popular perceptions in
decades to come.
As Hollywood cemented its grip on the public imagination, filmgoers

increasingly looked to the stars of the silver screen for fashion inspiration.
Men were drawn to the effortless cool displayed by detectives in slick film noir
crime thrillers, while alluring leading ladies such as Marlene Dietrich provided
a template for women to follow.
"By the 1930s Hollywood was really influential," said Ms Butchart. "Its reach in
terms of fashion was becoming huge.
"Warner Bros produced a lot of gangster films that featured characters

wearing trench coats.
"And by the time of World War Two they were becoming strongly linked with
film noir and Humphrey Bogart.
"He embodied that trench 'attitude'. Many people think of him in Casablanca,
even though he only wore one in two scenes."
AP
Humphrey Bogart played trench coat-wearing private eye Sam Spade in 1941 film The Maltese Falcon
AP
The following year, 'Bogey' starred alongside Ingrid Bergman in romantic drama Casablanca
The coats remained a favourite with Hollywood costume departments into the
1960s and a beige trench in romantic comedy Breakfast at Tiffany's helped
confirm Audrey Hepburn's status as a style icon.
That transition will be the focus of From Field to Fashion, an exhibition

running at Winchester Discovery Centre in Thomas Burberry's home county of
Hampshire from 4 October until 21 December.
Alongside an authentic World War One Burberry cavalry trench coat will be
the one Dietrich wore in 1948's A Foreign Affair - on loan from Berlin's
Deutsche Kinemathek Museum.
Hoje, a popularidade do casaco nas passarelas e na High Street mostra poucos
sinais de declínio.
A peça central das luxuosas campanhas publicitárias da Burberry e da

Aquascutum, outras marcas continuam a produzir suas próprias versões
anualmente também.
Em termos de moda, o trench coat ganhou a guerra de estilos.
Mas, cem anos após a eclosão da Primeira Guerra Mundial, seus primórdios
nos campos de batalha não devem ser esquecidos.
Mais sobre esta história
Burberry registra 'lucro recorde'

21 de maio de 2014
Aquascutum vendida para YGM Trading

10 de maio de 2012
Kate vira 'clássico' para Belfast

8 de março de 2011
Links de Internet Relacionados
Aquascutum
Burberry
Faculdade de Moda de Londres
Centro Saint Martins
A BBC não é responsável pelo conteúdo de sites externos.
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01/11/2022 15:38 The trench coat's forgotten WW1 roots - BBC News

As raízes esquecidas da Primeira Guerra Mundial

Por Simon Armstrong

De Humphrey Bogart a Audrey Hepburn e Kate Moss, o trench coat agora é

Marcando inúmeras aparições na tela de prata e nas páginas brilhantes de

Mas enquanto hoje adorna os ombros de supermodelos e celebridades, parece

"Tornou-se um clássico perene.

"Muitas pessoas podem se surpreender com a origem, mas durante séculos a

In contrast, the lighter, shorter, waterproof coat produced by English clothing

But they were not its only practical benefits.

Their subdued colour, too, played an important role.

Who invented the trench coat?

In 1879 Hampshire's Thomas Burberry developed gabardine, a tightly

To make them waterproof, fabrics had previously been waxed or rubberised

In contrast, gabardine was lightweight, weatherproof and 'breathable'

London's Aquascutum, meanwhile, claims to have used designs which later

A number of companies advertised variations on the trench coat during

It resulted in cheaper garments - a benefit for newly recruited officers, some of

It highlights, Ms Tynan argues, an issue that still resonates today with

"Having a mass-produced item for officers became quite normalised.

"It was a unisex item.

As Hollywood cemented its grip on the public imagination, filmgoers

"Warner Bros produced a lot of gangster films that featured characters

That transition will be the focus of From Field to Fashion, an exhibition

A peça central das luxuosas campanhas publicitárias da Burberry e da

Em termos de moda, o trench coat ganhou a guerra de estilos.

Mais sobre esta história

Burberry registra 'lucro recorde'

Aquascutum vendida para YGM Trading

Kate vira 'clássico' para Belfast

Links de Internet Relacionados

Faculdade de Moda de Londres

Centro Saint Martins

A BBC não é responsável pelo conteúdo de sites externos.

Paid & presented by AWS

Cloud-Fueled Innovation for Today’s Manufacturers: Building Operational

Georgie Henley: Narnia actor with flesh-eating disease thanks Addenbrooke's

'I was groomed and exploited at parties aged 14'

Living in Downing Street: Rishi Sunak and family move back in

King delighted with TV repair of favourite vase

VIVER Suprema Corte adia liberação de declarações fiscais de Trump

Bolsonaro vai quebrar silêncio após derrota

Takeoff, rapper do Migos, é morto a tiros aos 28 anos

Como a tragédia do Halloween de Seul se desenrolou

Em outros lugares da BBC

Como a matemática desbloqueou uma brecha do cassino

1 Takeoff, rapper do Migos, é morto a tiros aos 28 anos

2 Bolsonaro vai quebrar silêncio após derrota

3 Repressão à matrícula aumenta as tensões no Kosovo

4 Taylor Swift assume todo o top 10 dos EUA

5 Polícia coreana foi chamada horas antes de esmagamento mortal

6 Funcionários são interrogados após o afogamento do filho de Davido

7 Banqueiro renuncia à cidadania russa por causa da Ucrânia

8 Morre a famosa elefanta matriarca do Quênia

9 A avó ucraniana estuprada em sua própria casa

10 Coreia do Norte ameaça EUA com 'medidas poderosas'

Serviços de notícias da BBC

Receba alertas de notícias

Entre em contato com a BBC News

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